Category Archives: Travel

Boston/Cape Cod Whirl ~ Part 1

Sea whispered to me when I arrived in Boston. She peaked around corners, she skulked in the shadows, she stepped alongside me in the sun. Everywhere I walked, I felt she was there. She tickled my nose with her salty seduction, teasing and tempting with her mineral-laden scent. On certain summer days, that’s what Sea did best, and as I began my perambulation of Boston, she was in the air.

The weekend would be informed by Sea, who had a strong backing wind, one that brought her all the way to Braddock Park and the South End, and one that would follow in the misty air as I made my way to Cape Cod the next day. First, though, a few glimpses of the flowers that were in striking form along the streets of Boston.

Roses tumbled out of every little square of dirt – full, multi-branched mini-bouquets of roses, arching and weighing down their thorny boughs, reaching out to entice all passers-by with their prettiness and perfume. It was a beautiful afternoon, but I could still sense Sea, could feel her in the humid, murky descent of evening. I made my way through the cobblestone streets of the oldest parts of the city. Some of the steps were haunted, by Sea and by History. Her story too. I was scoping out scenes for the upcoming BroSox Adventure with Skip, and found some new possibilities in the night. It will be a summer weekend when we go, but the autumn may beckon a bit, hinting of mystery and impending coziness. August plays out that way. But I’m getting ahead of myself, and early summer is not the time to do that.

I did not have the option of making it a late night, having to get up at dawn to beat the traffic over the bridge to Cape Cod. Besides, when Sea is in the air, memories and spirits move easier among worlds, especially at night. It’s better to hide in slumber at such times. I hurried home to the condo, ran up the steps, and locked the door behind me.

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Meeting an Idol in Manhattan – Part 7

The lobby of the Public Theatre is bright and clean. I’d been there to see ‘Here Lies Love’ a few years ago, and we had had dinner at the Library. Tonight that place is closed for a private event, but it’s not food I’m after. In the electric anticipation of seeing one of my lifelong idols take the stage just a few feet from my seat, I mill excitedly about. I feel the same eager joy I experienced right before seeing ‘Sunset Boulevard’ during Betty Buckley’s triumphant run. Twenty-plus years and eighteen albums later the elation hasn’t diminished. If anything, it’s more stirring, because in all that time Ms. Buckley’s work has informed key portions of my life. One entire fall of my college life was framed by her haunting rendition of ‘When October Goes’, followed by ‘My Love and I’ in a forlorn winter. As she’s evolved, many of us have faithfully followed, from ‘Sunset’ to ‘Triumph of Love’ to ‘Gypsy’ and ‘Grey Gardens’. Her next venture is the national tour of ‘Hello, Dolly!’ but before she starts spreading that happiness, the final night of her series of performances at Joe’s Pub to celebrate the release of the ‘Hope’ album was at hand.

We decided to buy the new CD in the moments leading up to the show, and by the time we take our seats near the stage we have each shared our stories of seeing Ms. Buckley over the years and everyone feels a little closer and, yes, a little more hopeful. I won’t get into the wonder of the performance (you can read all about it here). It will have to do with being nothing less than a dream come true.

After the show, she was gracious enough to sign some CDs, and Andy finally convinced me to tell her that I had a written a couple of blog posts about her.

“Oh, you’re that Alan!” she exclaimed, and opened her arms to hug me.

It was one of the nicest things an idol could have done. I didn’t want to hold the line up, so I thanked her quickly for all the music she’s made over the years, and she was even more gracious in posing for a picture. It was the perfect ending to a perfect night of music, and as we rode home in the New Yok night, Andy and I were both elated.

It would be difficult to leave the next morning, as it always is after an exceptionally good time…

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Meeting an Idol in Manhattan – Part 6

Believe it or not, Andy and I don’t go on that many traditional date nights. We cook for ourselves, get take-out, and often join friends and family for dinner, but a sit-down restaurant for just the two of us is rarer than it should be. On this evening, I made reservations at that 80’s chestnut Indochine, since it was right across the street from Joe’s Pub, where our show was playing later that night. We sat down at a cozy table (once a very inebriated and cranky woman allowed us to slide past her seat) and took our time with our meal, beginning with some cocktails and a delicious dish of grilled eggplant that simply melted in the mouth. With its accents of fresh tomatoes and coriander, it was a treat.

The meal itself was lovely as well – this pungent seafood bouillabaisse was flavored with coconut and curry then given an added jolt of fresh herbs on top. (Most people don’t realize how potent a few leaves of coriander or mint can be – it can make all the difference.)

The best part of date night is getting to try two desserts instead of one. Andy ordered this chocolate mousse, while I opted for a lemon tart. We shared so we could try a bit of each. As Winnie-the-Pooh once remarked with startling wisdom, “It’s so much friendlier with two.”

Our desserts done, it was time for the main show, and the true purpose of our weekend in New York: an evening with Betty Buckley.

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Meeting an Idol in Manhattan – Part 5

There may be no greater pleasure in life than getting to watch your husband find joy and delight in an unexpected surprise. Even eighteen years into our relationship, it still tickles me. This one came in the midst of an otherwise uneventful walk back to Midtown. We were escaping the increasing heat by ducking into the shops along Fifth Avenue (ok, maybe I was multi-tasking by shopping as well) after passing through an Indian Festival on the edge of Union Square. Suddenly, a colorful sea of saris swarmed in front of us, and the entire avenue was filled with a parade that seemed to materialize out of nowhere. Brilliance and sparkle and exuberance surrounded us, and three enormous chariots raised their fabric towers and set into motion.

This was the Chariot Festival, making its way down Fifth Avenue, a thousand times more gorgeous and exciting than all the goods in Zara and Club Monaco. I watched as Andy got out his phone and smiled as he took a video of the spectacle (check it out on his Instagram feed). I imagined him as a kid, thrilling at their dog’s antics, or the hatching of a chick he helped to raise, or some car of which he knew the make and model and entire history. His happiness made me happy.

Soon, the parade passed us by, and we walked until we collapsed in our hotel. A well-earned siesta would pass the time until dinner and the show. Part of me couldn’t wait until our brush with Betty Buckley later that evening, part of me didn’t want the day to end…

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Meeting an Idol in Manhattan – Part 4

Art is everywhere in New York, and not only in the abundance of museums and traditional show places. It’s in the way these parks reclaim nature’s power, slowly subsuming the very boundaries put in place to keep things out, and in. We stopped to examine the way this tree was slowly eating up the iron fence beside it. It was difficult to discern which came first. Perhaps they were both put in at the same time, and were just now coming to blows. Or maybe this is a melding of two entities long hoping to touch and intertwine. For now, it’s an interesting stand-off.

We reached the Village just as the sun reached its zenith. I knew Andy was struggling, and he said we had to sit down for a bit. It was a good time for both of us to sit in a park, right beside a statue of Mayor LaGuardia. Birds flitted about us as a nice breeze added comfort to the dappled shade. A little pool of calm in the midst of the chaos that is Manhattan. Somehow, its chaos is contained, like these little collections of street art – contained within the specific limitations of their physicality. Bound by the borders of a wall of a mail box, hindered by the gradual wear of winter winds and summer storms, the art here is fleeting, ever-changing.

It is as rough as it is rich. Layered in complexity and meaning beyond what a quick drive-by or pedestrian brush could fully reveal. It awaits revelation as much as it defies discovery, covert and overt at once.

These are the little surprises that call to everyone differently. Some don’t hear anything at all. Some hear the grandest symphony, the most lush flourishes from the universal chorus of the cosmos, come to sing their very own theme song.

There was one more surprise in store for us before we made it back to the hotel…

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Meeting an Idol in Manhattan – Part 3

We slept in on Saturday morning, as we had no plans or any need rush to be anywhere until the concert much later that night. The day was sunny and bright – the perfect almost-summer day in New York that looked like it might border on being too hot, but shade and a slow pace, along with frequent shop stops, would easily combat any discomfort.

We began in simple and casual fashion, the way I prefer most breakfasts in New York. A typical little Greek diner was more than enough to satisfy what we needed, then we took our time walking downtown while our meal settled. We had no destination in mind, no plan plotted out – it was just Andy and me, walking on a beautiful day, pausing as we felt like it and taking our time.

At such moments, secret places tend to open up and invite one in if you let them. Most of us are too hurried or focused on something else to realize the little nooks that New York can provide. Most of the time I’m the same way, but on this day we had the luxury of walking for the sake of walking, and taking in every possibility that floated our way. Such as these little parks. They are all over, and most are open to the public during the day. They are also mostly empty, because too many people just don’t notice or care or have the benefit of time. I knew we were the lucky ones on this day.

Roses and hydrangeas and a world of green invited us through wrought-iron gates, and respites of cool shade and tranquil quiet, buffered by leaves and tree trunks, gave us beautiful pause on our walk.

These were magical places, where flowers floated in the sky and fish swam in the stone…

 

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Meeting an Idol in Manhattan – Part 2

Andy could not manage an additional show and it was clear he was hurting, so we kept our evening plans to a casual dinner at Keen’s. Suzie took me there a couple of times, whenever we were seeing a Madonna concert at Madison Square Garden. It was classic New York, and we loved the burgers. Plus, there were all those pipes hanging from the ceiling. Kids like me could get hooked into counting them so as not to disrupt the adult diners. We made the short walk from our hotel to the restaurant and arrived early enough to get in without a wait. (The pub area is always more fun than the main dining room, let’s face it.)

I ordered a martini and Andy got his Hemingway daiquiri. He may single-handedly be bringing back this classic cocktail from almost-obscurity, and I applaud him for that. We will work on our home version this summer. For now, our cocktail glasses clinked beside one another on the table, our burgers arrived, and soon it was time for a shared dessert.

Summer whispered her impending arrival; when we exited the dim restaurant it was still light out, and we walked in that happy confusion the longest days of the year provide. It also meant that there was an hour or two of retail therapy available, so we stopped along the way and Andy helped me pick out a new Tallia jacket that was 75% off. It pays to follow your instincts, and on that night I just knew we should stop for shopping.

I felt the same way when we woke the next day…

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Meeting an Idol in Manhattan – Part 1

If it feels like we’ve been in New York a lot recently, it’s because we have. There was our visit to ‘Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, Parts 1 and 2’ back in April, and our recent Mother’s Day pilgrimage in May (‘The Boys in the Band’, ‘Once on This Island’ and ‘Dear Evan Hansen’). The month of June brought something even more special, at least for me: a Betty Buckley show. Ever since her iconic star turn in ‘Sunset Boulevard’ I’ve been a die-hard Betty Buckley fan, and my adoration and adulation of her has only grown over the ensuing years. She’s one of those rare artists who changes and evolves, yet somehow always manages to produce meaningful and beautiful music, even when venturing into uncharted territory. Her 18thalbum, ‘Hope’, was the reason for her celebratory series of shows at Joe’s Pub at the Public Theatre, and after missing out for too many years, I finally booked us tickets.

We arrived at the Albany-Rensselaer station to a sign that explained all trains were going to Grand Central terminal, instead of Penn, which foiled my original plan for our hotel to be within short walking distance of the station. On a good day, Andy doesn’t well with a lot of walking, but things were even more distressing because he’d just had a rough bout with a recent blood test. Somehow, he managed to trudge through the change in plans, and was a trooper for the entire weekend.

Grand Central is so much nicer than Penn anyway, and a quick Uber ride would get us to our accommodations without incident. The ride was more than worth it as our suite at the Hotel Eventi was an elegant treat. One of our favored Kimpton properties, the Eventi extended our appreciation for the company and its customer service. (We even whispered the little promotional phrase and were gifted with a cute little summer basket of beach accessories.)

After settling in, I went for a quick walk while Andy took a much-needed siesta. We were in the city again, and the evening was open…

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Trying On A New Kimpton: Hotel Eventi

 Contrary to what many people might expect, I’m not high maintenance when it comes to a hotel room in New York City. What I want, more than a trendy hotel bar, billion-thread-count sheets or chocolates on the pillow is a simple respite from the street. A room, ideally with a view, that provides a comfort in a city that can be wild and crazy in the best and worst ways. 

Fulfilling that for this weekend will be the Kimpton Hotel Eventi, which will be host to Andy and I while we attend a Betty Buckley concert, as it’s slightly closer to the venue than our usual Muse. The latter has always been wonderful, especially when seeing a show on Broadway, but it’s good to expand our accommodation knowledge, and Kimpton knows how to do hospitality right.

Whether it’s the Muse in Manhattan or the jewel of the Topaz in DC, Kimpton properties have consistently provided charm and a unique verve that sets them apart from other hotels. There’s nothing cookie-cutter about them, which makes each property a singular work of art. Best of all, their customer service has been impeccable.

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A Helluva Town: NY with Mom – Part 4

For Mother’s Day breakfast, I booked us a table at the nearby Norma’s. (I wish I’d thought to do so last year when we were still on a Norma Desmond ‘Sunset Boulevard’ high.) We enjoyed it now, walking through the impressive lobby of the Parker Meridien into a cozy corner where other mothers were enjoying an early celebration of their day. Since I was actually spending the weekend with my Mom instead of merely writing about her, there was no Mother’s Day post, so this will have to suffice.

We’ve been doing these Broadway weekends for several Mother’s Days now. I think we each enjoy them for different reasons, as they afford us an uninterrupted bit of quality time with one another – not in serious, sustained conversation all the while, but in simpler, quieter moments. We make good travel companions because despite our appreciation of style and elegance, we’re both pretty low-maintenance. The pacing is easy, and no one gets riled if plans morph into something slightly new and unexpected.

We also get to reminisce and remember the people we love, and some of whom we have lost. They show up in surprising ways – a dachshund to remind us of Gram or a dinner dish to remind us of Aunt Luz and Uncle Roberto. Of course we also reflect on those still with us (but I’m not about to dish on all that). It’s good to have a designated long weekend to allow for such sharing, and it has become an important tradition for both of us.

This year was a good one, and looking back on the weekend it was practically perfect. This may have been the most consistently-great set of shows we’ve seen in years, and it will be difficult to top them. That doesn’t mean I won’t try next year…

{And here’s a bonus look back at our first time at ‘Sunset Boulevard, circa 1995.}

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A Helluva Town: NY with Mom – Part 3

The storms arrived on our third day, but thanks to some uncanny timing we only needed our umbrellas for minor portions of our walking. While we were at breakfast, the sky opened up and released torrents of rain – we watched from behind a restaurant window. Once it got that out of its system, however, the sky lightened and only lightly spritzed for the remainder of the trip.

Taking advantage of the break, we walked and did some window shopping (well, I may have shopped more than windows, but cashmere on sale is always worth the investment). Our matinee that day was ‘Dear Evan Hansen’ and based on the music I knew we were in for a treat.

The show did not disappoint, and if you want to go on a roller-coaster of meaningful, cathartic musical magic, get your tickets now. After such emotional extremes, we stopped for a cocktail at Randolph’s, conveniently located at the Warwick, then got ready for a late dinner near the Pierre.

(Don’t ask me about my decision-making when it came to booking a restaurant that specialized in rotisserie chicken; how do you not do it decently? And why would I pick a place that’s serving $40 dishes when I can get the same thing at the local market for $6.99?) Regardless, the atmosphere and the company was enjoyable, and we made the most of our last dinner of this Mother’s Day Broadway weekend.

There was only one breakfast left…

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A Helluva Town: NY with Mom – Part 2

The day that would end up being the nicest as far as the weather went began in simple fashion: with a breakfast at a nearby diner. Sometimes it’s best to keep things casual and easy, and I’m someone who loves a good diner breakfast. Our server had some verve to her as well, which made for an entertaining way to wake up. All in the name of sustenance for a day of shopping that began with a subway ride to the World Trade Center stop.

Much has changed in that part of the subway system, as it has in that part of the city. The Westfield nexus of shopping, dining and subway stopping was pretty much complete – and what a change. Sweet perfume shops sent their olfactory soldiers into battle against a legion of subway exhaust fumes in a battle that declared no clear winner. We weren’t there for the new shops though, we had bargain hunting to accomplish, so we rode into the daylight and walked to Century 21, where the real work began. (As far as it is from where we usually stay, the downtown location of Century 21 is vastly superior to the Lincoln Center store.) We found some steals, filled some bags, and still had some energy to return to the hotel and head out for a bit more. By the time another early bell for dinner rang, we were ready to eat again.

Toloache provided some decent guacamole and way-better-than-decent margaritas for our dinner, and when we finished a little sooner than expected we crossed the street for a cocktail stop at the Palm. As we sat looking out at New York, a pair of goats hopped out of a van. All in a day, I suppose.

That evening’s show was ‘Once on This Island’ and it was as glorious as word-of-mouth had indicated. More-so, in fact, and I was completely enamored of the entire production, right down to the sand that front-row visitors found beneath our feet.

I’d neglected to inform my Mom about this immersive factor of the show, so she gamely trotted along the beach to her seat in fancy open-toed shoes, while I accepted cast compliments for my sneakers.

At last, as the show got underway, the goats we’d spied previously made sense; they were part of the cast. An enchanting theatrical experience, we left lifted-up, and ready for one more full day…

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A Helluva Town: NY with Mom – Part 1

What began over two decades ago has become an annual event to which I eagerly look forward for the whole year: Mother’s Day weekend with Mom. Despite mixed weather forecasts signaling rain and storms, we somehow managed to mostly avoid the wet stuff as we navigated our way through three shows, three dinners, and some decent shopping in New York over Mother’s Day weekend. Happily, each of the shows surpassed our expectations (reviews to come) and the dinners and meals (more loosely scheduled than in years past) worked out well too.

It began with the train ride into the city. Traveling along the Hudson, we passed spots of rain, patches of clouds, and brilliant glimpses of sun-dappled forest. As one who thrives on extremes (of mood, of dress, of design) I always thrill at going from the tranquil, natural state of the trees and river then emerging from the train station into the concrete metropolis in a matter of minutes.

This time around we stayed at the Warwick Hotel, a historic piece of the city that proved more than amenable to our comfort requirements. (A dapper little bear at the front desk did his greeting duty with practiced aplomb.) Our suite had a charming entry-way, then a lovely sitting room (which we never quite utilized as much as we should have) a decent-sized bedroom (by city standards) and an adequate bathroom (read: small). Still, when staying in New York it’s not the hotel room that matters, but what you do outside of it.

That first night we kept things traditional and old-school: a pre-theater dinner at P.J. Clarke’s. We’d never been, but it’s a bit of an institution: the building standing alone in the midst of all those skyscrapers, the dessert specials written out on a chalk-board, and the red-and-white checkered tablecloths reminiscent of picnics from the past.

After that we returned to the room for a quick siesta before taking in our first show: ‘The Boys in the Band’. A full review will be posted once it officially opens, so I’ll simply say it went wildly beyond our expectations in the best possible ways. (And Jim Parsons didn’t trip until a couple of days after our performance.)

We walked back to the Warwick, found its warm comforting light, and retired for the evening. A full day of shopping, dining, and theater-going was one the agenda for us…

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At The Warwick With Mother

When deciding on accommodations for our Mother’s Day weekend on Broadway, I always recall the stories told by my mother about when her mother (my fabulous grandmother) used to visit the city. It was old-school classic New York, long before the degradation then revitalization of Times Square, back when hotels were opulent show-pieces of grand lobbies, and women paraded down laces like the Peacock Alley of the Waldorf-Astoria in fine millinery, gussied up with gloves and veils, holding hat-boxes and shopping bags, while their male counterparts wore suits and hats and properly-shined shoes. We try to re-create that bygone era of manners and style, at least as close as modern-day society will allow without too many raised eyebrows. (It seems no one dresses for the theater anymore.)

For this year’s journey, we’ll be staying at the historic Warwick Hotel. It’s in one of our favored locales – close enough to the Park to be in proximity to beauty, yet not too far removed from the theaters where we’ll be seeing several shows. Within, Randolph’s Bar looks to provide libations for all our in-between moments, while a host of other classic New York landmarks are within easy reach. 

I’ll add it to my TripAdvisor review queue and hope that it’s as stunning a stay as we enjoyed in the Towers at Lotte New York Palace of last year.

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Magic & The Muse: Part 3

“There are things that death cannot touch. Paint… and memory… and love.” – Harry Potter and the Cursed Child

The cherry blossom motif of Central park continued in the lobby of the Roosevelt Hotel, where these Kwanzan beauties rose from an enormous bouquet. There were a few lilies as well, but this season is all about the cherries. As Andy and I finished our cocktails I realized that this was one of those happy highlights that I would remember as a hallmark of this trip. It’s not always in the fancy dinners or the big theatrical events – sometimes the best memories are of the quiet in-between times, such as sitting beside your husband in the middle of a bustling day that you’re lucky enough to have off from work, lazily taking in a visage of cherry blossoms and the visitors passing through a hotel lobby.

We walked a few more blocks back to our own accommodations at the glorious Muse, where we promptly put our feet up and slumbered until it was time for dinner at Lattanzi’s. Another Restaurant Row offering (conveniently on the same street as our hotel), it produced one of the best cuts of steak that Andy has had in recent and long-past memory. My veal was delicious as well, falling off the bone into a pool of deliciousness.

For Part 2 of ‘Harry Potter and the Cursed Child’ we knew enough not to rush to make the 6:30 requested arrival time, and by the time we strolled in at 7, there was no line and no waiting, and so sparse was the crowd that I wondered if everyone bothered to make it back for the second night.

We found the second night better than the first, and though I still contend that it would be better as one show, the second part flew by (at times quite literally), and I’m glad we got to see it with the original cast.

Afterward, we got in touch with Andy’s cousin Tyler, who met us at the Lamb’s Club, an old-school theater district hang-out for old-school folks like ourselves. We shut the place down (since it closed so early) and hopefully we’ll get to hang out with him again before he heads West.

Our Harry Potter trip had come to its late-night conclusion. Manhattan glowed all around us, but we were tired out from the day. Bed beckoned again. Who were we to refuse? We shall return in June to see Betty Buckley… 

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