Category Archives: Travel

Summer Memories: Montana

We’d left Seattle in the morning, having loaded most of what Suzie had into the big white Volvo not quite worthy of the name Bessie. The start of our whirlwind cross-country trip, transporting her back East after a year of food prep in Seattle, was on a sunny day in August, auspicious with its bright skies, but quickly overbearing in the heat once we distanced ourselves from the West Coast. Such heat came on strong, and left the oversized Volvo gasping for overheated breath. Do you know what you are supposed to do when a car overheats? Turn on the heater. Yeah, I know. Me in a Volvo, in the high heat of summer in Montana, with the fucking heater on. It was 85 degrees outside, and 90 degrees inside the car. I was not having it, and but for Suzie I would have ditched the whole idea and high-tailed it to the nearest airport. But Suzie has a way of making even the unbearable a worth-having adventure. After a few hairy pauses to let Bessie cool off, we glided into a beautiful afternoon.

Fields of sunflowers lifted their faces to their namesake. Golden and resplendent in the light, it felt a little like Oz, and my wonder at the world, in of all places Montana, raised my sweaty spirits. I was racing back to see a boy I barely remember, and at the time barely knew, but we’d had a very enjoyable first date, and at my age I was ever on the verge of being crazy in love, and wanted nothing more than to believe that this was The One. I didn’t tell Suzie that was the reason for my hastily avoiding every stop or proposed diner-pie moment. I was in no mood for the dinosaurs of Pee Wee’s Big Adventure, and if I have the slightest regret in my life it may be in not stopping along the way.

We ducked behind high outcroppings of rocks that hid us in shadow, but there were no trees to shade our way. It was so different from the East Coast, and I was fascinated and entranced. We had driven most of the day, and most of it through Montana. Vast, unyielding, relentless Montana. The name still conjures endless vistas of clay-colored rock, and unmitigated sunshine. As it neared sunset, we started to feel a little peckish for dinner and a place to lay our heads for the night.

A silly pop song – the song of that summer – played on the radio, and neither of us had a boy to call our own. Not yet. My heart hoped, of course, like it always did, and who knew what rumbles of yearning ran through Suzie’s hidden emotions, but we were happy enough just being together on the road, in that enormous Volvo, and suddenly panicking that we might not find a hotel even this far removed from the great National Parks below us. Eventually we did, just as the light left the sky. A sad and sterile Motel 6 or Super 8, whose worst affront was not the small pack of fruit flies near the bathroom sink but the sheer dullness of such massive mediocrity poised unspectacularly in the midst of our sprawling country. This was why people killed themselves, I thought briefly, before giggling at the drama of it all.

We slept well that night. The sleep of summer is often misunderstood to pale in comparison to the warm slumber of winter, but I’ve always known that summer sleep is the deepest sleep, especially after a day at the beach, or the pool, or an overheated car. The next morning we were speeding east, leaving Seattle in our memories, hurtling toward a few more summer memories-in-the-making. Like the season itself, our cross-country trek was over much too quickly. Like college. Or my relationship with that sweet boy. Or those endless fields of sunflowers that now only occasionally tease and taunt me with their whorls of seeds to come.

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Ogunquit Quietude

Some Ogunquit visits are loud and exciting, filled with noise and fireworks and non-stop motion. Other visits are quieter and looser, subdued by beauty, good food and lovely weather, like a balm upon the soul when the rest of the world gets a little too noisy and chaotic. For this trip, after such a torturous winter, we opted for the latter. I wanted quiet and peace, with room for naps, and an unrushed pace that allowed the town to wash over our weariness, gently restoring and replenishing what the winter had drained.

It began on the Marginal Way, and both of our walks along that gorgeous path happened to be at times when the tide was going out. There were no thundering waves crashing upon the rocks, no relentless wind that made talking and listening difficult. It was as if the ocean was lulling the hesitant back into trusting her again, and it worked.

Flowers joined in the gentle tugging at the heart. Much of the plant life was late, but that worked out well; we often miss the lilacs but now they were in full bloom (more on them later). Other things were just beginning, such as this brilliant blue camassia (the flowers of which are usually gone by the time we arrive). Creeping phlox was a carpet of riotous color, while apple and plum blossoms waved fragrant white flags against the sky.

For a writer and observer (and, ahem, blogger) it is sometimes difficult to get out of one’s head-space, to not worry about documenting and retaining what is being seen and experienced, but when I’m in Ogunquit, I remember to let go and inhabit the moment. It takes a while to be wholly present again, to be completely mindful of where I am and not think about the future.

I walk out along the rocks, peering into tide pools and the gorgeous green ribbons of seaweed gently undulating with each lapping wave. Bits of iridescent sea shells sparkle in the sun-drenched water, and the warm light of that setting orb sets the rocks aflame.

I pause and look out over the ocean, and Andy takes the only photos that will be taken of me for the rest of the weekend. (There will be more than enough of me to come in the next few months… you have been warned.) For now, we examine a feather at the foot of the Marginal Way, as indicative of the beauty and the quiet I’ve sought for so long. It is as lovely a beginning as any.

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In the Maine

This marks our 15th year visiting Ogunquit, Maine but I still feel the same excitement and thrill in going as I did on that very first trip. On that memorable weekend, it was late summer and the town was switching into slower fall gear, but it was as enchanting as ever. The next year we switched over to kicking it off in spring for Memorial Day weekend, and then closing it out in fall over Columbus Day weekend. Of course, it is this weekend which is my favorite. For all the loveliness of fall, there will always be something better about spring. The whole of summer lies await ahead of us. There is more magic in anticipation than recollection.

That said, a few looks back never hurt anyone, and there have been many at Maine over the years.

There is a peace and contentment that settles within instants of finding my way back to Ogunquit.

When it rains, there are still enchantments to be found along the wet shore.

There is even some male nudity on display if you know where to look and when.

Even when I’m not there, I keep a little bit of it in me.

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Goodnight Florida

Closing this book on Florida was difficult. Just as I was getting accustomed to the sun and the sand and the heat, I was flown back to upstate New York, where temperatures hovered well below freezing. It was jarring, and entirely unwelcome, but you always have to go home, whether you like it or not. On my last night, I stood on the balcony, remembering the first night I arrived. A warm breeze rustled the leaves of the palm trees, and this lovely night wind whispered of salty sea caps, boldly-colored bougainvillea, and ocean debris waiting to be discovered by excited beach-goers.

The sadness of it being my last night in such beauty is coupled with a fullness not felt on the first night when it was still brand new. It’s strange, and wonderful, how malleable we can be, especially when we need to be, and I will bring back a little of this lesson for the days to come. Right then though I don’t need it. I only need to stretch out my arms into the balmy night, look upward to the moon, and make the memory that will see me through another winter.

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A Swath of Oceanic Pubic Hair

This bit of red-brown sea-life, washed upon the shore of Florida, brings to mind another thatch of life: the pubic patch. Evocative of the erotic, or simply the anatomical, it reeks of briny primordial ooze, as if the very depths of the ocean coughed up the remnants of some cosmic orgasm. It reminds me that life, in all its varied forms, is somehow all connected, that we all come from the same stuff, and return to it in the end.

The wilderness of Florida, where warnings of sting rays and panther crossings sounded in the night, and the potential of losing a dangling foot from a bridge to an alligator is remarkably real, brings me back to the gloriously precarious perch we retain in this world. A tangle of Spanish moss, filled with tiny spiders, waits to hang the unwary passer-by, while the phallic (yet female) pistil of a calla lily protrudes just enough to give rise to other thoughts. Like salty pubic hair glistening in the sun.

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Christmas in Florida ~ Part 3

It wouldn’t be Christmas, even in Florida, without a bit of Christmas tree splendor and Santa-sightings. It was a bit odd to see it all played out against a backdrop of palm trees and an aquamarine ocean, where the temperature hovered around 80 degrees and the wardrobe called for shorts and sandals, but somehow Christmas found a way.

In the hotel I was staying at, this sumptuously-decorated scene greeted guests (along with a troll-like Santa I couldn’t quite bring myself to post).

While it felt different, it didn’t feel wrong, and in a year where things were shifting, it opened up my eyes to new possibilities, new traditions, and new ways of celebrating the season.

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Christmas in Florida ~ Part 2

It takes at least a day and a half before the realization of a vacation sets in. Work worries, family obligations, and the routine planning of this website and that life must all exit the head, and they do – but it takes that day and a half. Then the secrets of calm and restful ways are revealed, slowly at first, until the full bloom of a sunny beach in Florida unfurls, lined with sea shells and dotted with tropical blossoms.

The ocean sparkles, crests shimmering with the reflected diamonds of sunlight. Sand pipers walk hurriedly along the shore, while flocks of gulls soar overhead. The majesty of the sea is present as much in its quiet beauty as in its tumultuous power. For now, the sea slumbers, and a very pretty slumber it is.

For a native of landlocked upstate New York, the Florida coast is a marvelous wonder. A long line of exotic artifacts lines the lapping edge of salt water. Sponges and shells and the dried carcass of a catfish all present themselves to my childish delight. Warnings of it being stingray season – “Please shuffle when walking in the water!” – fill my mind with boyish excitement. I still get a thrill from new scenes of nature, and they are in ample supply here.

The Gulf Coast is a revelation. Somehow it feels more tranquil, sporting richer colors, more intense skies, and a tug at the heart that only beauty could pull off.  There is also a variety of bird-life that inhabits the water and the air, dancing along the shoreline, preening in the sun, and tip-toeing through the sand. I’m held rapt by birds I’d never seen before, entranced by their exotic features, and the way some of their beaks match the color around their eyes. I could spend a day just watching the birds here.

At the end of a pier, a pelican teases beneath wooden slats, peering up at me while enjoying the bit of shade from an unrelenting sun. I wait for the elusive creature to swim out before grabbing the only photo I could.

Then there was this bird – a Bird-of-Paradise. These beauties grow outside here; a treat to see, as I’ve only ever encountered them in a greenhouse setting. The flowers of Florida can be found in bloom at all times of the year, so I captured a few more.

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Christmas in Florida ~ Part 1

The notion of spending the holidays  in sunny Florida has never been one that appealed to me until this year, when new family directions and other nonsense has me screaming to get away and start my own holiday traditions. Perhaps next year… In the meantime, I’m putting up a few Florida posts from my recent trip to the Sunshine State, because I’m all about crazy juxtaposition, and it doesn’t get crazier than Santa and palm trees.

Here is just a hint of what is to come…

PS – Merry Christmas.

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A Fall Party on Cod’s Great Cape

My friend JoAnn/Jo-Jo/Josie is renowned for her fall parties, and this year proved no exception as friends old and new gathered at her digs on Shore Road. The house with the mermaid on it hosted this get-together on a day that could not have been more perfect. The sun was shining, the air was warm, but cooled down nicely for a cozy round-the-fire talk later in the evening. All in all, it was the perfect fall party as only JoAnn could have crafted.

The bittersweet and the gourds were in full-effect, as was the following flower bouquet by our friend Courtney, who runs a flower shop on the Cape. Her work is exquisite, and I was captivated by the sweet perfume of a few cheerful yellow mimosa branches.

I don’t get to see these folks save a few times a year at the most, but when I do it’s like no time has passed. JoAnn has always been good at bringing different people together, and her new house already feels like a home.

When the darkness comes early, the only way to combat any impending seasonal depression is to make your own light. I do this by surrounding myself with friends, and making it a priority to see those who matter most to me.

These two ladies were largely responsible for pulling this party together – and the lovely lady on the right, Sarah, is this generation’s Mary Poppins. You’ll just have to hang out with her to find out why. (She’s the one who made all those sweet goodies seen above.)

Friends & fall… there’s no better coupling.

The magic of the mermaid… until we meet again.

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A Long Washington Weekend ~ Pt. IV

My previous visits to the US Botanic Gardens were always restricted  to the interior – the large glass greenhouse that offered an other-worldly chance to get out of the city, especially on chilly February days. On this trip, however, and on a breezy but nice October day, we walked outside into the gardens that stretched beyond the main building.

An unexpected delight, they carried on the secret-garden aspect of the inside, offering further respite from the political machinations of this country. Meandering paths obscured by walls of high grasses and delicately manicured native shrubs and bushes invited the weary walker onward, while late-season surprises waited to reveal their stunning blooms.

First and foremost among surprises was this white lily. Long past the blooming period for most lilies, this unexpected diversion leaned over the walkway, insisting on being sniffed. Its perfume stopped the day for me, and made an instant memory.

A small pond hosted dragonflies and water lilies, along with the blue spires of this moisture-loving plant. The importance of a water element in a garden should never be underestimated.

While many of the grasses had gone brilliantly to seed, waving their grains in the air like they just didn’t care, there were other plants still in full bloom, like this butterfly favorite.

The real powerhouses at this time of the year were the asters, in bright purples and pinks.  This is their time to shine.

It’s also the time to reap the harvest of the beauty berry, electric in hue and bold enough to rival any blossom. The perfect finale to our time in the garden.

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A Long Washington Weekend ~ Pt. III

After the history lesson of the Capitol, and the studied silence of the Library of Congress, we walked just a bit further and made our last tourist stop at the US Botanic Gardens. Another favorite haunt of mine, this marked Andy’s first visit, and as his body was about to give out we took our time and paused on the benches provided along the way.

The best part about the Botanical Gardens is that they manage to be a respite at any time of the year. When it’s brutally cold in January or February, the warm moist air is a paradisiacal escape. When it’s unbearably hot and oppressively humid in July or August, the air is shaded and cool. On this day, they were comfortable and beautiful – providing a living, green contrast to the cool grays and mottled marble of the Capitol Building. And not just green…

A number of orchids were in full bloom, not only bringing color to the grounds, but a spicy sweet fragrance as well.

This particular Vanda has an interesting name, which you can pronounce for yourself. (The way I say it is not suitable for family listening.)

Whenever I visit Washington, this space (and the zoo) always provides a bit of peace in a town known for blistering and blustery political bitching. This day proved no exception. We headed back outside, to a part of the grounds where I had never been before…

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A Long Washington Weekend ~ Pt. II

I love a library, but I especially love a library that’s got style – and the Library of Congress has that in spades. Feast your eyes upon this fantastic marble-saturated room. It felt more like a museum gallery than a library, though as you will see there is most definitely a working library on the premises (and a few admonishments to keep the peace and quiet.)

When learning and beauty come together, it’s a glorious sight to behold.

“Too low they build, who build beneath the stars.”

Somebody’s got ambition, and a couple of Corinthian columns to back it up. We would later get a look at the acanthus plant whose leaves inspired the design of these columns.

Looking down into the library itself, we could see that people were indeed working and reading and researching – and this is where there was a sign asking that noise be kept to a minimum.

Such ornate wonders must have inspired something in those who dwelled in these halls.

Mostly, though, it just made me realize that we are not doing enough with our ceilings. (Of course, it would help it they were 100 feet in the air, but I digress.)

This is how one creates a corner with impact.

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A Long Washington Weekend ~ Pt. I

A wedding brought us to the nation’s Capital, but before the vows were exchanged Andy and I toured a few Washington mainstays, beginning with the National Zoo. It was later in the afternoon when we began our walk through the winding paths that lead around the animal exhibits, but since we’d been here before we did not need to stop for everything. Instead, we paused at some of our favorites – like the cheetah seen reclining on the ground below. Though the lemurs weren’t out, the otters were, providing much amusement for us as much as themselves. The elephants were on display too, but the pandas were inside. It still amazes me that this country’s National Museums are free and open to the public. There are no turnstiles, no entry fee, nothing at all to impede any citizen from walking in off the street and finding themselves next to a red panda. It’s pretty cool.

I appreciate the flora of the zoo just as much as the fauna, as evidenced in this vibrant Japanese beauty berry. There were a number of bamboo stands, providing shade and a pleasant backdrop, particularly to the Asian Trail, where the pandas can occasionally be seen eating distant bamboo relatives (they consume too much for it to be feasible to grow the food-source at the zoo.) A peaceful landing pad for our weekend, it provided a quiet entry to the wonder that is Washington.

No trip to DC would be complete without seeing its unofficial ambassador, Mr. Stephen Colbert. We happened by chance upon this skit while waiting for our tour of the Capitol to begin.

Andy was more than thrilled, as he is a big Colbert fan. I was amused, if somewhat unimpressed. One of the guards monitoring the scene didn’t let us walk on the steps from which I wanted a photo of the Washington monument. Is this America or Hollywood?

I’m not sure how it will be play out on-screen or what it even means, but Mr. Colbert was riding along on a bike with a string of cans bouncing behind him and the sign ‘Just Quitted’ on his back. Even Andy wasn’t sure about what it meant – he thought perhaps it was a reference to a politician in Kansas who just quit. The absurdity of the whole scene is why I don’t follow politics. But when in Rome…

After surreptitiously gaining a few photos of Colbert on the bike, we headed around the back of the Capitol for a tour. It’s been years since I was in the building, and not even the scaffolding could mar its beauty (well, maybe it could – and did.)

Even so, one can’t help but feel the strong pull of patriotism upon which this country was founded. We take such liberty for granted, at least I do, so it’s always good to be reminded from whence we came. (As well as the divisive battles that brought about our current system, which really does seem to be as fair as possible – if you don’t think so, try coming up with a feasible alternative.)

As our tour of the Capitol ended, the guide recommended we walk over to the Library of Congress. Having never visited before, that’s where we headed…

 

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A Guy Who Brings Out the Best (Man) in Me

We sat on a hill in Berkeley, looking down at the twinkling lights. Removed from the world, for just a while, we smoked one of those silly Bidi cigarettes, having finished off a disgusting bottle of Strawberry Boone’s Farm “wine” from the local grocery store. It was late summer, and I was visiting my friend Chris in San Francisco.

It was the summer that Andrew Cunanan had gone on his killing spree, and the gay world felt a little haunted.

It was the summer that Princess Diana died in a car crash after being chased by the paparazzi.

It was the summer I came out in the local hometown newspaper, but before I could summon the courage to do that, I needed to seek counsel from friends.

Best of all, it was the summer that solidified an enduring friendship.

Which brings me back to the opening scene.

On that hill, which was dry and brown with the drought of a dying summer, I sat beside my straight friend Chris. We didn’t know it then, but our lives were just beginning. (When you’re that young every day can feel like the end of the world.) We expressed our frustration with not finding love yet, and back then Chris seemed a lot calmer about the whole thing – our roles would flip-flop over the years.)

My fear of the straight male had always kept me from making many straight guy friends. Reaching out, and extending a tentative hand to someone who could be cruel and awful and abusive, and trusting that this person wouldn’t be. It was a leap of faith, one I wish I had taken more than I usually did.

In ways more numerous than either of us are willing to admit, we would eventually find that we were very similar. We’re both sensitive: I pretend I’m not, he overemphasizes how much he is. We’re both ego-driven: he pretends he’s not, I overemphasize how much I am. And we both tend to need other people who don’t seem to need us quite as much as we need them.

Our friendship has proven surprisingly effortless, yet incomparably enduring, evolving over the years and growing as we grew. Through dark periods of pain to elated planes of happiness, we’ve seen each other through a lot – through everything as adults really.

Chris planted the seeds of a tenuous start to trusting people, to having a certain degree of faith in humanity. It was a small start, but most beginnings are, and in the ensuing years of friendship, he’s reminded me that there are good people in this world, no matter how cruel and wicked it might sometimes seem.

I don’t give my true friends the credit they deserve, at least not publicly, but I’m getting better at it. As in most things, Chris is showing me the way. As I write this on his wedding weekend, let it be a little testament to a great guy, and a great friend.

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DC Preview

Last weekend we celebrated a wedding in Washington, DC. Those posts are about to appear, but before that let’s take a trip down DC Memory Lane. I have several fine recollections of that fair city and that House so White, and each visit brings further adventures.

One of my first memories was a family vacation where we met up with our cousins. We toured the Smithsonian that day, and the stop at the insect portion – where they allow you to touch and hold giant cockroaches and beetles and such – freaked me out so much that I had to sleep with my parents for a year afterward. To this day, I have nightmares in which there is a bug on me. I blame the Smithsonian.

Later on, we visited my Uncle and Aunt, who worked for very well-to-do lawyers on a street populated by politicians. The first home they worked at was just a few doors away from the Vice President’s residence. It was magnificent – an old brick edifice anchored by a pool that stretched into a shaded grove covered in ivy. The sight of ivy clinging to a brick wall brings me instantly back to those visits. We were just kids then, transfixed by the magic of our Uncle, and enchanted by the world of Washington and its green-lined Potomac River, backed by glowing monuments that lit up the night.

In the ensuing years, the city would morph and change as we grew up. Darker and colder days populated my memory bank, as my Uncle and my Aunt passed away. But happier days and events balanced them out – weddings and celebrations and births – and it’s one of the latter that brought us back last weekend. That story, and the accompanying photos, will begin next week, when The Diva Takes DC

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