Category Archives: Tom Ford

Its resinous richness redolent of its namesake, ‘Amber Absolute‘ by Tom Ford is the perfect smoldering scent to greet the deep days of the fall season. I have a perfumed pathway that leads from September to December thanks to Mr. Ford and his Private Blends. It begins with the incense-like ‘Vert D’Encens‘ from his Vert line – the perfect September scent that carries some lingering sweetness from summer into fall. Those transition times are tricky, but the Vert series deftly straddles the shifting line of demarcation. After that, October brings the heat of ‘Amber Absolute’ – when fall is at its most radiant, when the forest leaves are on fire, and when the final warm days of the year release their splendor like it’s their very last show (because it is).

When October goes and November rears its cruel gray head, something smoky and dramatic is needed, which I find in the bracing ‘Japon Noir‘ – a dark shade of soapy night decadence that sparkles in the early blackness of evening. That’s a difficult one for day-wear, but I don’t mind subjecting the office to such a heart of darkness once in a while.

December calls for something special, with the celebratory spirit of the holidays when we need something to brighten the darkest and shortest days of the year. ‘Tuscan Leather‘ and ‘Santal Blush’ are the pair of unlikely sweethearts to see us through those holidays – the former with its smoky sweetness and the latter with its sandalwood opulence. Together they seduce the sense of smell, whispering and gently tugging at all those who follow in their sillage.

As we careen through autumn at full-throttle speed, I’m grateful for such small delights to ease the cooler days and nights. An embrace of cologne can be better than a hug, if you’re as cold as me.

If you’re going to get me to shell out $320 for a Tom Ford Private Blend, you’ve got to come up with a better name than ‘Lavender Extreme.’ That said, I’m intrigued. My interest is piqued. I doubt I’ll be sold – I have my fill of lavender-tinged scents with ‘Lavender Palm‘ and ‘Beau de Jour‘ – both of which feature the delicious herb, so I’m not exactly in the market for another. But I do want to know what it smells like, and the bottle is exquisitely gorgeous. I’ve bought more going on far less (such as ‘Fucking Fabulous‘ – which had me at ‘Fucking’ then seduced with its surprisingly delicate notes). 

I’ll give it a whirl… but I think my anniversary scent is with another house… possibly Hermes. Or Penhaligon. Or Kilian. 

A crisply-tied tie.

A pair of polished cuff-links.

A severe, pomaded side-part.

The makings of a gentleman now have the perfect olfactory accompaniment, whether of a day or a lifetime. Beginning with a burst of lavender, ‘Beau de Jour’ may be what Tom Ford’s recent series of fougere scents originally wanted to be. Not sure if I’m slightly chagrined that he waited to release the best after the rest of us got one of the others, or just relieved that there’s finally a fougere that gets elevated to the vaunted heights of the upper echelon of Private Blends – either way I smell damn good today thanks to this Beau, and my husband Andy who was sweet enough to present it to me on Valentine’s Day.

That lavender beginning, only the slightest bit reminiscent of Tom Ford’s own ‘Lavender Palm’, remains pretty clean for the first two hours of wear. A delicious shroud of green covers the initial spray – it reads rather mint-like for a moment (though the literature attributes this to a floral green geranium, which I love as well) before ripening into a richer oakmoss, with elements of basil shifting us deeper into verdant territory.

This is a decent Private Blend, even if it might require a spritz or two more to really make a statement. When I first started sampling this collection many years ago, I was sent a fragrance book of the original scents, with a few samples that ended up merging into one glorious TF amalgamation wafting out of the guestroom. That fragrance – an impossible to reproduce cacophony of the most lasting notes of some of those OG PBs – came to mind as this one wore on during the day. It was a gleeful turn of events, because I always end up trying to find the one dominant fragrance in a store like Barneys, where all their gorgeous scents blended together, and failing with my one selection. ‘Beau de Jour’ encompasses a little bit from a lot of other Private Blend bottles (I detected subtle reminders of the aforementioned ‘Lavender Palm’ along with faint echoes of ‘Fucking Fabulous’, ‘Fougere D’Argent’, and even a tiny bit of ‘Amber Absolute‘ and ‘Tobacco Vanille’ – all of which I favor.) That said, it still stands very much on its own – an elegant, distinguished gentlemen among rather more sordid brethren like ‘Tuscan Leather’, ‘Plum Japonais‘, ‘Japon Noir’, and ‘Santal Blush’.

Dashing onto the scene just in time for Valentine’s Day is a new Tom Ford Private Blend, ‘Beau de Jour.’ It will certainly take the guesswork out of Andy’s search for a heart-day gift, and though I hesitate getting a scent unsniffed, it has paid off handsomely in the past. A little glory is worth a little risk. There’s safety in the description, too, as the literature makes it sound like a scent made in my own little paradise planet:

“Classic. Sharp. Maverick.

Beau de Jour presents the perfectly groomed gentleman who considers every detail. He exhibits the best version of himself to the world, but underneath the surface is something deeper, refreshing and sublime in all its layers.

A fresh, commanding entrance of Lavender from Provence introduces the clean and fervent facets of the Beau de Jour scent. The cool and refreshing open is further amplified with an infusion of energetic hybrid of lavenders. The core beats with the herbal inflection of African rosemary and floral green geranium with its subtle hint of mint inflection, a powerful contrast to the leather-like warmth of oakmoss and the electric green of basil. Patchouli and amber create an earthy foundation of radiant wood and sensual musky warmth, further elevating Bea de Jour’s refreshing notion of masculinity through the finish.”

To say so much and so little in such breathlessly frilly prose is an art form unto itself, and that description alone is enough to set my olfactory excitement into overload. I’ve always been a fan of lavender, and was actually on the hunt for something similar to see us through the brunt of winter. Lavender is one of those calming scents that, when done right, eases the mind and relaxes the body. We need that more than ever in the winter months. I’m a big fan of Ford’s earlier effort with the scent: ‘Lavender Palm.’ That veered into slightly perfume-like territory, not necessarily a bad thing, but it lingered in the upper register of notes, whereas I prefer something a bit deeper. ‘Beau de Jour’ on paper sounds like it fills that bill.

Having most recently purchased his ‘Fougere d’Argent’ I am just the slightest bit wary of putting another fougere-like scent into the repertoire so soon, but the moment calls for peace and refreshment, and that’s what lavender does best. Stay tuned…

UPDATE: This weekend’s Boston visit afforded me the chance to try this one out and I was pleasantly surprised. I like it better than the other Fougere offerings Ford has released of late, and part of that is due to the lovely hints of lavender, along with some potent staying power. Definitely worthy of Valentine’s Day…

Tom Ford’s upcoming Private Blend ‘Lost Cherry’ has the provocative name one has come to expect, and the typical mainstream tendencies that mar so many fragrance releases these days, with something that leans (at least on paper) decidedly toward the candy sweetness that is such a big turn-off for those of us who like something darker and richer. That said, I’m always surprised by my own reaction to those slightly fruity fragrances. On the paper of what I’d diagram as my preferences, I wouldn’t classify fruity as a favored note, but it turns out I’m fruitier than I ever thought possible. Maybe it’s time to embrace that and go with it. 

I’ll give you the official literature on ‘Lost Cherry’ and the next time I get a chance to try it out, I’ll let you know how it goes. Here’s the soundbite:

LUSCIOUS. TEMPTING. INSATIABLE.

TOM FORD LOST CHERRY IS A FULL-BODIED JOURNEY INTO THE ONCE-FORBIDDEN; A CONTRASTING SCENT THAT REVEALS A TEMPTING DICHOTOMY OF PLAYFUL, CANDY-LIKE GLEAM ON THE OUTSIDE AND LUSCIOUS FLESH ON THE INSIDE.

INNOCENCE INTERSECTS INDULGENCE WITH AN OPENING THAT CAPTURES THE CLASSIC PERFECTION OF THE EXOTIC CHERRY FRUIT€“BLACK CHERRY’S RIPE FLESH DRIPPING IN CHERRY LIQUEUR GLISTENS WITH A TEASING TOUCH OF BITTER ALMOND.

THE HEART BURSTS FORTH IN CHERRY WAVES OF SWEET AND TART. GRIOTTE SYRUP EXPRESSES THE TEXTURED MACERATION OF VOLUPTUOUS FRUITS WHILE BREATHTAKING FLORALS TURKISH ROSE AND JASMINE SAMBAC PENETRATE THE SENSES AND SOUL.

PERU BALSAM AND ROASTED TONKA AT THE DRYDOWN SUGGEST A NEW PORTRAIT OF AN ICONIC SYMBOL. WHEN BLENDED WITH AN UNEXPECTED MELANGE OF SANDALWOOD, VETIVER AND CEDAR, THE FINISH REACHES FANTASY-INSPIRING LEVELS OF INSATIABILITY.

No other plant exudes quite the same feel of freshness and bright greenery than the fern. The genus is so expansive and diverse that almost every shade of green is found within it, as well as every texture and size. From the smallest and daintiest button fern to the grandest tree fern, the fern world is vast and varied. Yet across the board, each fern carries a certain old-world elegance and refinement that belies its hardier qualities.

Such a happy correlation comes with Tom Ford’s newest Private Blend pair: Fougere D’Ardent and Fougere Platine. The ‘fougere’ part is from the French word for fern, which is fitting for these verdant fragrances, which also have notes recalling traditional old-world barber-shops and the like. To my admittedly-failing memory, Ford has never done a classic gentlemen fragrance. I suppose an argument could be made that his first self-titled mainstream cologne could be counted as such, and I’ve long maintained that the original does veer into traditional Old Spice territory, and another mainstream offering, ‘Grey Vetiver’, was true to its timeless namesake. Most of his Private Blends, however, have been (more or less delightfully) all over the map. ‘Azure Lime’ was one that came closest to a typical gentleman’s cologne, with its fresh citrus take that veered into the masculine side of his Neroli Portofino line. 

His recent Vert series touched on a green forest; my favorite of the lot, Vert D’Encens, is a veritable walk through a pine grove on a warm autumn day. Heavenly. Fougere D’Ardent brings that ferny woodiness and couples it with a barber shop finesse, merging into a refined delight perfect for seasonal transitions. 

It’s something one’s grandfather might wear if he were especially jaunty and far ahead of his time. A classic with a bold flare, which is, when you consider most classics, what intrinsically makes something a classic. Containing components of some of the earliest gentlemen colognes, still used today as proof of their everlasting timelessness, this fougere fragrance is a clarion of elegance and sophistication.

Here’s the official description:

Fouere d’Argent is a bold reimagining of the classic fougere, a structure that traditionally revolves around lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin. With oakmoss no longer available, Tom Ford has re-worked the model in a provocative manner, substituting moss with Akigalawood, a Givaudan captive derived from patchouli that has a wonderfully spicy, woodsy bitterness. What emerges from Ford’s confident handling is a scent that smells truly masculine – earthy, herbaceous, and rich, with a radiantly spiced muskiness that billows around its wearer.

Everyone I know probably thinks that I would have purchased this solely for the name alone, and everyone would be right. When rumors started circulating that Tom Ford was naming his latest limited edition Private Blend something like ‘Fucking Fabulous’ I believed it instantly. It was just insane and cheeky enough to be true. I also wanted to have it just to answer ‘Fucking Fabulous’ when/if anyone asked what I smelled like. And having the matte black bottle in my collection with that iconic name shouting its contents was the third reason for ponying up the hefty price point.

That said, one doesn’t spend the kind of money required for a Tom Ford purchase based on name alone, I don’t care how fucking fabulous it may be. I still needed to try it. This past fall, I managed to get into his flagship store in New York and spritz a bit on my arms, and I was smitten enough to justify the Christmas gift request. It arrived a couple of weeks ago thanks to Santa Andy, and I absolutely adore it.

Billed rather deceptively as an Oriental leather, to me it’s much softer than that. The main and most-lasting note I get is a tonka accord, but there are spicy elements of bitter almond oil, orris root, and clary sage that open and develop throughout the scent’s trajectory. I get a bit of citrus at the outset too, not totally dissimilar from ‘Rive d’Ambre’ which I love. The leather is lacking a little, but that works here. Too much would ruin the delicacy of what’s happening. (Of course, it’s possible I’ve been spoiled by the head-knocking jolt of ‘Tuscan Leather‘…)

The elevated price point of ‘Fucking Fabulous’ is earned mostly from the name alone; sillage and lasting power aren’t this fragrance’s strong points. A few hours later it’s still there, but it’s very soft, as if shy to leave the skin. That may seem the anti-thesis of its bold moniker, but sometimes being fabulous is more about seducing than demanding. The former is whispered elegance; the latter is crude. The line between them is finer than most care to realize, and no one walks that line with more swagger than Tom Ford.

One of the very first Tom Ford Private Blends produced, and the most touted scent to the whole line back then was Tuscan Leather. It remains a cornerstone of this line, but it took me a long time to come around to it. It’s not a subtle one, and the first few years of sniffing it had me unconvinced. It was potent. It was loud. It was almost obnoxious. One would think I’d have loved it. One would be wrong. 

Fortunately taste and perception shift over the years. A good cologne will do that in a day. I never bothered with trying Tuscan Leather on and seeing how it dried down, I only took that initial oomph and steered clear. I missed the real magic of this stalwart performer until I threw a ‘Naughty or Nice’ party with S&M leather undertones and finally got around to sampling this fragrance for a full night.

It begins in unapologetic fashion with the cracking of a leather whip.

Some leather is stiff. Worn by the years, faded by the sun and wind, it dries out, stiffens up, and stands on its own. It hits hard because that’s the only way to survive.

Some leather is supple. Processed and delicately treated, it spills and folds like the softest silk. It kisses and caresses the skin, hiding its toughness in flowing elegance, cloaking its delicacy in shrouds of smoothness.

Tuscan Leather gives both of these aspects a delicious turn, beginning in tough, cowboy-boot stomping glory and finishing with a sweetly refined send-off.

This is not a scent for the faint of heart or weak of nose. That opening is no joke, and as one of the very first Private Blends, Tom Ford was announcing he didn’t come to play. Tuscan Leather is a complex, challenging, and ultimately exquisite experience that may have some shying away from its harsher points. Those who want a true fragrance journey should board this wild ride and prepare for glory.

Starting off with a heavy jolt of its namesake, leather plays a primal part in the proceedings. Though I usually think of leather as one of the lasting aspects that shows up rather late in the dry down, here it announces itself front and center, and stays there for the greater part of the show. A smokiness pervades as things progress, lending dark beauty and potent mysticism with just the slightest hint of incense, courtesy of the olibanum. The official literature for Tuscan Leather lists black suede as part of the formula, giving it a hedonistic edge. It verges on going musky, but is pulled back by night blooming jasmine, which claps back with its own sweetness, bravely defying all the harder elements at work. The juxtaposition is delicious, and results in one of the most beautiful dry-downs of all time: a luscious raspberry-like sweetness that somehow retains all the rustic leathery goodness of the beginning.

Sillage and projection is powerful – do not go heavy on this, especially in an office environment – and its duration is a good six to eight hours (with the dry down lingering into the next day if you let it).

With all the fucking hubbub over his ‘Fucking Fabulous’ fragrance, a new mainstream Tom Ford fragrance snuck in the back door in chic and sleek fashion. ‘Anthracite’ is the latest of his Noir line – one which has, up until this moment, failed to capture my adoration. I’m not even a fan of his ‘Noir de Noir’ from the boutique Private Blend collection, so another Noir sounded fatally bland. Still, something about ‘Anthracite’ and its relatively quiet entrance appealed to me, and since I’m in need of an office fragrance, I gave it a spritz.

Surprisingly, I liked what I smelled. There’s nothing edgy or extreme about this one, but it wisely veers clear of being too sporty and citrusy. There’s an opening of bergamot, but that quickly dissipates into pepper and woody ginger. The cedar is strong in this one, which works for the transitional fall-to-winter months. It’s got a deliciously dry midsection, which I like, befitting a martini or a vesper. It’s professional, with just the slightest hint of intrigue to set it apart from more standard fare. I also detected a pinch of patchouli that contributes a nice accent without screaming like some 60’s banshee. After a couple of hours, the spicy edge is subdued by the cedar, in the same way that the woods can be elegant in their coming austerity. The perfect set-up for the onslaught of winter.

Don’t hate me for the profanity-laced title of this post, nor for any of the ‘fucking’s that are about to follow. Blame it on Tom Ford, whose latest limited-edition Private Blend just stomped all over his recent fashion show with its none-too-subtle name: Fucking Fabulous.

If ever there was a fragrance to buy without sniffing the contents first, it would be this one, but I’ve already tempted fate with his exquisite ‘Oud Minerale’. While that worked out well, one doesn’t risk it a second time – not for $310 a bottle. For that price point, I need to try it on and see how well it lasts, what the dry-down might be, and whether my Private Blend shelf can handle one more bottle (no matter how stunning the black matte flagon and brazen name might appear).

The reviews I’d seen early on were not for the fragrance itself, but for the name, and such hype is what has driven Tom Ford from the beginning. Ever since that groundbreaking first full-frontal male nudity ad for his stint at Yves St. Laurent through to his sweaty crotch-nestling work for his own cologne, Ford is a master of straddling the border between tasteless and tasteful. Some folks are crying vulgar foul, some are crying marketing gimmick, and some are crying for sheer joy over the tonka bean opening. I need to try it on to form my own opinion, and then I need to sell a newborn or something.

A scramble and a gamble, this is ‘Oud Minérale’ by Tom Ford.  

I broke the cardinal rule of fragrance-purchasing: never buy an item that you haven’t tried on. But this is Tom Ford, and his Private Blends are made for breaking the rules. Unlike the Vert and Portofino lines, which each feature a magnificent specimen (Vert d’Encens and Mandarino di Amalfi) for each clunker (Vert de Fleur and Fleur de Portofino), the Oud line has, thus far, had winners across the board. I’m especially enamored of the classic Oud Wood and its smoky floral sister Oud Fleur, so if there was ever a safe bet to make on a Ford fragrance untested and untrue, it would be the latest, ‘Oud Minérale’. Thankfully, it’s a gamble that paid off.

The scramble part is that I wanted a fragrance for our trip to Maine, where we would be reunited with the sea, but there were only a few days in which to make that happen, so as an advance anniversary gift, Andy (with a little preparatory aid from me) managed to have the Tom Ford rep at Bergdorf Goodman overnight us this release. There’s nothing more magical than making a memory with the power of a new scent. I wasn’t particularly looking for a new one, but when the new Oud claimed to be a woody marine sort, something rather new to Ford’s lexicon, I thought it might be perfect for the coast, something that embodied the salty grandeur of the sea, and the rocky rugged landscape of the Marginal Way. I’m happy to report that I found both in this thrilling addition to the Private Blends collection. The literature for it is filled with typical over-the-top Tom Ford superlatives, but it all comes remarkably close to the truth:

Original. Oceanic. Elemental.

Private Blend Oud Minérale merges rare and precious Oud with the fresh exuberance of the ocean, capturing the refreshing play of surf and sea against the burning flame of smoked wood.

Tom Ford’s reinvention of Oud marks an olfactive watershed that pairs two of the world’s most intriguing elements to reveal tonalities both exhilarating and powerfully transcendent.

The first thing that hits me is the smoky wood. Once it drifts away, the salty pungent sea swirls mysteriously in its wake. it churns like this for a while – about an hour or two – and this oceanic heart carries its precious cargo of Ford’s Oud as a worthy companion. They jockey for prominence, and for a moment I think this water might be a tad too choppy, but then it recedes and calms. As the dry down begins, there are exquisite echoes of Venetian Bergamot. It’s an intriguing coupling of wood and water that feels right for a summer seaside night.