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Category Archives: Food

Going to War For Lunch

Quiet Fridays in downtown Albany are a secret, almost-enjoyable, aspect of summer that I’m hoping to keep mostly to myself, so don’t tell anyone what I’m about to tell you. My preferred method of working at the office involves as few people as possible, as quiet and peaceful an atmosphere as possible, and the least bit of trouble and interaction as possible. It makes sense then that one of my favorite days to work is the day after Thanksgiving, when almost no one else is at the office, and I can catch up on things that have evaded me for the previous eleven months.

On a smaller scale, Fridays in summer afford the same absence of people and activity in downtown Albany, and we had a peek of that yesterday, when a delightfully sunny and perfectly 71-degree day afforded me an opportunity to walk up the hill (State Street) and try out the Albany War Room Tavern for the first time. Renowned Executive Chef Yasuo Saso makes a welcome return to the Albany restaurant scene, and was the main draw for my lunch-time journey.

From their social media pages alone, my mouth has been watering whenever I happen upon a post featuring some gorgeous sushi or steak creation, and after hoofing it up State Street I was hungry and ready. “Peace, Love & Sushi” glowed in neon writing above the sushi station, while Chef Saso could be heard methodically chopping up all the delicious goodness that was in my immediate future. The sound had a calming effect – something soothing and consistent in the midst of what can often be a hot and harried downtown Albany scene.

Framed memorabilia of political and historical figures reminded of all that has gone down in this 1890’s brownstone building, but, warring political factions aside, the lunchtime vibe was calm and cool, and the two rolls I ordered – an Authentic Spicy Crab roll and a Spicy Devil roll of tuna and caviar – made for a light yet filling lunch. I would have gone for a third, but I’d have had to roll down the hill to get back to work. Two were just enough for lunch; we’ll be back for a full dinner soon to try out more indulgences. For now, this was the perfect entry into what may become a Friday afternoon summer tradition.

{The Albany War Room Tavern is located at 42 Eagle Street – check out their website here.}

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The Beauty of A Bundt

What is it about a bundt cake that makes it seem to taste so much better than any other cake? Is it the visual sumptuousness and simplicity of the shape? The dribble of glaze that said shape provides for such regular rivulets? We eat more than we think with our eyes. 

This basic bundt is the Harvey Wallbanger cake, the recipe of which may be found here. It’s worth a try (and if you don’t have the Galliano on hand, because no one really does, a Sambuca or Yellow Chartreuse makes a fine substitute). For this one, in place of the 3/4 cup orange juice that keeps this sweet and moist, I took the time to squeeze a few Mandarins that made it even better than I remember. 

Happy Bundting!

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What’s the Date Again?

For all those who have already celebrated today’s date, I give you this mouth-watering image of a chocolate chip cookie. Yes, it’s already halfway gone, perhaps not unlike you, and though I’m not currently having an old-fashioned pot party here myself, absolutely no judgment to those who are. Happy 4/20 everybody! 

(If you want further visual munchies, check out this post. Yum-yum!)

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Mind Blown By An Egg

Forty-seven years into this life it’s difficult to find any revelations that profoundly shift the make-up of the man I’ve become in all that time. Every once in a while, however, there comes a situation that does shift everything I thought I knew, and on Friday night that came from a discussion with Suzie about eggs. Apparently it makes me look like a complete and total ass (I’m paraphrasing Andy) but that sort of jolt is good for a perfectionist Virgo who up until a few years ago genuinely believed he could do little to no wrong. My how times have changed…

All my life, I’ve assumed that eggs just came in one basic size. I’d only half-noticed the large and extra-large and Grade A markings on the cartons, and to be honest I just thought those were marketing strategies, like ‘World’s Greatest Butter’ or ‘Extra-large pumpkins’. Whenever I saw a recipe that called for one large egg, I would simply open the fridge and look for the largest egg I could find and use that. It always worked

Imagine my shock to find that ‘large’ and ‘extra-large’ were two very different and distinct egg sizes/weights, and there were more too, like ‘medium’ and ‘jumbo’. Perhaps you can’t imagine such a thing, because neither could Suzie. In fact, when the topic came up, there was a good five-minute period of wild confusion, as she was talking about ‘large’ eggs in the apparently traditional sense, while I was talking about large eggs as eggs that happened to be on the large size. Finally I blurted out, ‘What do YOU mean by jumbo eggs?’ and that’s when we realized my folly. Forty-seven years of thinking eggs came in one size came screeching to a stunned halt. 

Immediately, I texted everyone I knew with the simple ask of “What is a large egg?” Some would rightfully wonder if I’d started drinking again. One told me to go to bed. Most didn’t understand the question, because all of them had learned, not sure where, that eggs were sized and labeled differently. Small consolation came on social media, where most people thought I was kidding, a few thought I was ridiculous, and just a smidge said they were on my side and always thought eggs came in one size too. 

Suzie and I were trying to figure out how I could have baked so many things without incident (more or less) over the years, and I said in exasperation that I’d only ever seen a recipe call for large eggs. I’ve never seen one that used jumbo eggs or medium eggs – had I noticed that I might have made the connection. But unfailingly, all the recipes I’ve ever made required ‘large’ eggs. The reason it always worked, as we found out, is because Andy has only ever stocked the fridge with ‘large’ eggs. Another happy accident that avoided unhappy accidents. 

Suzie and I drove along the rainy, dark roads in shocked and shook fashion, each trying to wrap our heads around things for different reasons. The next day I stopped in the market to confirm it, and there they were – all differently sized and labeled – medium and jumbo and extra large and small. 

I’m still processing… 

 

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A French Omelette Fail

They make it look so easy on those Instagram reels and TikTok dreams, but when I try something like this ‘super simple’ French omelette, it sticks to the pan, burns to the consistency of a rubbery frisbee, and tastes like French bulldog shit. There is a Sunday morning lesson here (aside from not walking away from eggs to check your text messages) and it comes with the posting of these decidedly-imperfect photos

The vast majority of posts that go up here are highly curated and edited, cropped within an inch of their lives (and sometimes my dick) to the point that everything looked deceptively pretty and enchanting – even the darker stuff. Well, that’s not really true to life. It’s true to the spirit of this site, and the idea of aspiration, but I never liked to sugarcoat, so in the ongoing quest to embrace and accept our inherent imperfection, this post shows that failure is part of the game. 

I will try this again – though not for a day or two given the price of eggs. I ate this one, most of it, because it was edible, just not very good. There another lesson there too: accepting what’s good enough rather than tossing it out and trying to achieve something great. 

Bon appe-fucking-tit. 

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Chickpea Curry In a Hurry

When I first moved away to Chicago to start a new life with a relatively new boyfriend (both of which clearly didn’t work out to last) my Mom gave me a cookbook of recipes that were supposed to be quick and easy. One of them was titled ‘Chicken Curry in a Hurry‘ and it was decidedly misnomered, as that recipe took my about five hours to make. New to cutting, prepping, measuring, and cooking, it was a trial by fire, and while the end result was decent enough, the time and effort it took to create that one dish was not worth it. 

Years later, after honing a bit of my kitchen skills, I can take a recipe that the New York Times published (their chickpea, coconut milk and curry dish) and roughly make it my own. In this instance, I diced up an onion and some carrots, then cooked those down in a bit of olive oil and generous helpings of curry and turmeric. Once soft enough to my liking, I added a can of coconut milk and two cans of chick peas, rinsed well.

Once the garbanzos were warmed, I modified the salt and pepper (lots of both) and piled the pot high with kale and spinach. A whole bag will wilt down into the manageable mix you see here.

Finally, I added some chopped fresh cilantro and a sprinkling of fresh lime juice, and the meal was ready in a matter of minutes. It’s a wonderful centerpiece for a meat-free Friday dinner, for those of us guilty Catholics who are still hedging our bets on making it into heaven. 

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Ranch Ice Cream

Never one to poo-poo an unorthodox food idea until I’ve tried it, I shall keep an open mind to the Ranch Ice Cream being released in a few days. First thought on this idea: abhorrent. Second thought: while not a ranch fan, I’m more open to this than the dill pickle ice cream that ran its course a couple of years ago. Third thought: I didn’t hate peanut butter on a hot dog, so why not? Ranch ice cream it shall be. 

(If I end up hating it, I’ll just serve it to our next dinner guests without telling them what it is. That’s the kind of host I am.)

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Embracing the Empanada

Viva Empanadas is one of the delicious vendors at Galleria 7 Market in Latham, and I introduced Suzie to their glory at dinner last night. I first tried these empanadas this winter, on a quiet Saturday before Andy woke up. I was going to save one for him, but they didn’t make it. The filling and the sauces were just too good. 

Suzie and I ordered a variety of four each – I’d only had a dry turkey sandwich that day, or so I justified it. A plate of three would have sufficed, but some dinners should be an excess of goodness, especially at the end of winter. It wasn’t difficult to finish them all. Suzie managed to save one. 

A bottle of guava soda recalled summer mocktails and poolside lounging, planting a seed for the months to come. 

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Billionaire Brownies

Billed as one of the bestsellers in stores that sell such items, the Billionaire Brownie comes in many variations. For my first attempt, I used a recipe from the Magnolia Bakery cookbook, which uses a brown sugar shortbread as the base, a layer of caramel, and then a brownie on top of that. They said more caramel could be added on top, but I’ve never been a big caramel fan, so I veered away from that – and honestly there was more than enough in the middle layer (a whole cup).

The results were spectacular for what was a rather simple recipe. The only time-consuming part was making the shortbread base and letting it cool before all the caramel and brownie mix can go on top. I was worried about double baking the shortbread, but it didn’t burn at all – and the brownies actually had to bake for fifteen minutes longer than the recipe time indicated before they were done (I lost track of how many dirty toothpicks gave their lives for this enterprise).

These sorry photos don’t do the sweet goodness half its due justice. 

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No Joy in this Jello

The last time I made Jello was for a much more celebratory moment, as this post on the ‘Cathedral Windows’ dessert will hopefully illuminate. Today’s jello moment is the result of a stomach bug that has me unable to hold food of any sort, so I made this wobbly batch of strawberry jello to get something fluid-like in my system (I don’t know how much more Pedialyte I can drink at this point). 

Coupled with a few popsicles, this is the food of the sick, which is a land I’ve not had to visit in four years. I did not miss it, and I’m more than ready to leave. It would be so much nicer to make a jello dish of this sort. Happy holiday memories…

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Cotton Candy That’s Good For You

Fruity food gimmicks have always fallen flat with me, and I have no patience for giving cute names to something like citrus (looking at you, Cutie, and judging you, Halo). So when I first heard about cotton candy grapes, I ignored them until I saw Pati Jinich use them in this recipe, and a co-worker brought some in and I got to try one. 

This shit is the real deal – and it tasted like… wait for it…. cotton fucking candy. Not in an annoying, cloying way, but very much like a sweet echo and approximation of the cotton candy sweetness, grounded in a bright grape. 

As we prepare for summer recipes (I do like to plan ahead) this variety will prove a fun twist to any grape dish – and a highlight of any fruit salad. Pop a few in your mouth and see what you think. It was enough to transform even a skeptical non-believer like myself. 

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Date Night at The Scarlet Knife

When I first read that The Scarlet Knife was opening in the space formerly occupied by the Latham K-Mart, I didn’t have a clue how they were going to successfully manage it, but on a recent date night out with Andy, we happily had an amazing meal, with nary a memory of any blue-light specials. 

Avoiding eating out on Valentine’s Day, Andy and I made dinner plans for a couple of days later. Last night we had our romantic evening, and as we talked over our next trip to Ogunquit, the universe confirmed our plans with a special appetizer of charred octopus – a dish we first tried many years ago at that Beautiful Place By the Sea

For his entree, Andy chose a New York Strip steak, which arrived with a requisite scarlet knife – a rare and welcome case of a restaurant’s name in action. 

Torn between the Duck Cassoulet and the Atlantic Halibut, I asked our server which she would recommend and she unequivocally advised I get the duck. It was a very good decision: this was one of the best dishes I’ve had in quite a while. 

To extend the evening for as long as possible, we opted for dessert. Andy chose the ‘Violet B’ – an almond daquoise, wild blueberry jam filled cream cheese mousse, meringue, almond ice cream and candied almonds. It was absolutely as delicious as it looked, which is saying something when you consider how pretty this dessert was plated. 

Taking this recent tea theme to heart, I went for the ‘That’s the Tea’ which was a chai creme brûlée, caramel sauce and milk chocolate sorbet. Divine tea decadence indeed. 

The Scarlet Knife ended our beautiful evening with a pair of passion-fruit macarons. A happy ending for a romantic dinner out with Andy. 

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The Perfection of the Imperfection

My attempts at cooking certain things have proven some of the most fertile grounds for learning to embrace the imperfections inherent in daily life. Multiple pancake disasters, a few bad run-ins with the rising of yeast, and a spilled pan of candied yams here and there have conspired to chip skillfully away at my desire for perfection, forcing a valuable lesson in accepting defeat, and embracing the notion that the quest for perfection is a losing one. 

With that in mind, I present this plate of folded eggs, which looks a bit of a mess and fright but is actually one of the easiest and most delicious breakfasts I’ve made in a year. I was idly swiping through my phone to pull myself out of some social media cooking/recipe hole I’d plunged into thanks to Babs, and I lazily paid scant attention to a folded eggs idea which was just scrambled eggs that weren’t stirred as much, left in an-almost runny state. I got the gist of it then fell not-so-promptly asleep (as one does when scrolling through the phone while in bed). 

The next morning I remembered the basics of the recipe, and decided to give it a try. For this version, I used four eggs, a couple of thinly-sliced scallions, a small bunch of chopped parsley, a smaller bunch of chopped cilantro, some dill weed, salt and pepper. Then I added a few tablespoons of half-and-half and whisked it all together. I heated a medium-sized pan, and dropped in three generous pats of butter – once they melted and started bubbling, I poured the eggs in and let them sit. Turning down the heat, I gently began pulling the cooked bottom layer around so the liquid parts could reach the pan. Repeating this carefully until it was all just barely runny (I turned off the heat completely once they were getting close) I then rolled the whole thing onto a pretty plate. (For scrambled eggs, I would have been more vigorous and regular in my stirring.) It wasn’t meant to look pretty, as the goal was a rustic but delicious dish, and I went into it expecting and desiring a bit of that imperfection. The end result delivered – more for the mouth than the eyes, and that’s what matters. 

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A Happy Amsterdam Post

While some parts of my hometown make me rather sad/mad, there are some that make me incredibly happy, and that was in full evidence when I picked up breakfast for my parents from DomAdi’s Deli. One of the specials that morning was this breakfast wrap, named for Bitsy, so whoever Bitsy is I would like to personally thank them for inspiring such deliciousness. A glorious mash-up of scrambled eggs, bacon, American cheese, and a hash brown, it was the perfect wrap with which to start the day. 

As I was standing in line to order, a gentleman remarked how he kept coming back there because the food was so good. That’s the sort of fabled hometown affability that goes unmentioned and unheralded too often, and whenever I experience it I want to celebrate and amplify the message. It’s also infectious, and as I headed downtown to the post office, the sun was shining through the winter, the sky was blue, and the friendly gentleman taking my stamp order responded as happily as I requested it. No matter where I go in life, and no mater where I’ve been, I’ll always be a son of Amsterdam. 

Back to Bitsy and DomAdi’s Deli – the food was indeed remarkable. For the upcoming ‘A Taste of Amsterdam‘ (Feb. 6 to 12), they will be offering a dinner special which includes a Korean bulgogi sub and slice of chocolate cake for $18.85 (since 1885 was the year Amsterdam was established) – and that combo sounds like my idea of heaven.

DomAdi’s is located right off the Thruway at Exit 27, so even if you’re not an Amsterdam local it’s an easy stopover to pick up a meal. Check out their FaceBook page here for updated daily specials – that’s how I found out about Bitsy’s Breakfast Special Wrap. (And be sure to say hello to the fabulous Elizabeth when you’re there – we went to high school together and somehow she doesn’t hate me.)

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Dazzler of the Day: Padma Lakshmi

When winter sets in, and the holiday decor has been shelved for another year, my comfort zone moves int the kitchen, where cooking provides not only sustenance and good things for the belly, but the heat from the stove and oven are a balm against the outer chill. With that in mind, I’ve been embarking on a few recipes by Padma Lakshmi, and thanks to their brilliance she is being named Dazzler of the Day. But as they once said in ‘Reading Rainbow’, you don’t have to take my word for it. Check out her website here, where the following encapsulation of her noteworthy accomplishments are described:

Padma Lakshmi is an Emmy-nominated producer, television host, food expert, and a New York Times best-selling author.

She is the creator, host, and executive producer of the critically acclaimed Hulu series Taste the Nation, currently in production for its second season. Taste the Nation is the recipient of a 2021 Critics Choice Real TV Award for Best Culinary Series, a 2021 Gotham Award nomination for Breakthrough Series, and 2022 Critics Choice Real TV Award for Best Show Host. In June 2022, Taste the Nation: Holiday Edition won a James Beard Foundation Award in the Visual Media – Long Form category.

Lakshmi also serves as host and executive producer of Bravo’s two-time Emmy-winning series Top Chef, now in its 20th season. Top Chef has been nominated for 42 Emmys, including her four-time nomination as Outstanding Host for A Reality-Competition Program. In 2022, she accepted two Critics Choice Real TV Awards for Best Culinary Show and Best Competition Series on behalf of Top Chef as well as an award for Best Show Host.

In the fall of 2021, Padma released her first children’s book – The New York Times best-selling Tomatoes for Neela, as well as guest-edited The Best American Travel Writing 2021. Lakshmi is also the author of two cookbooks – Easy Exotic and Tangy, Tart, Hot & Sweet, The New York Times best-selling memoir Love, Loss and What We Ate, and The Encyclopedia of Spices & Herbs.

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