Category Archives: Food

A DP Brunch

One of our favorite restaurants in Albany is dp: An American Brasserie. Up until now, they’ve only done lunch and dinner – both of which are phenomenal. This past Sunday, however, they served a one-off brunch, and the results were to-die-for. I only hope this is the beginning of a semi-regular feature, as a good brunch in Albany is always appreciated.

My only complaint about the whole scene is that there wasn’t more room in my stomach to try all of the luscious-looking options. Somehow I narrowed it down to two: the Fried Chicken and Biscuits with a Foie Gras gravy or the Duck Confit Hash with sweet and purple potatoes, autumn squash, poached egg and blistered shishito. Upon inquiry, our server made a definitive recommendation for the fried chicken, and the dilemma was solved.

There was a brief moment of minor regret as a plate of the Spicy Shrimp & Pork Belly Fried Rice arrived at a nearby table, with its pungent kimchi and perfectly poached egg atop a gloriously full plate, but that was quickly extinguished as my own plate of fried chicken appeared. Whatever they used to prepare this was divine, resulting in one of the finest brunch dishes I’ve had in a long time. (And I’ve tried a lot of fried chicken over the years.)

Andy’s order of Vanilla Bean Brioche French Toast and its accompanying Vermont maple syrup and fresh berries was as sweet and scrumptious as it appears here, the side of Applewood smoked bacon a vital complement.

The selection of cocktails went thrillingly beyond the usual Bloody Mary and Mimosa offerings, encompassing those classics while also offering a Corpse Reviver #2 and a Pain Killer – potent combinations sublimely suited for a leisurely Sunday brunch in which we just gained an extra hour. There’s no place else where I’d rather spend that extra time.

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Breakfast & Lunch

In this in-between-hour, I offer you the best of both worlds from our recent trip to Ogunquit. Breakfast at Amore and lunch at MC Perkins. An Eggs Benedict with crab and a trio of fish tacos. This is what happens when fresh seafood collides with late morning hunger, and it’s a damn near perfect collision for my stomach.

Feast your eyes on all the goodness. (I did so with my mouth.)

Yummy yummy.

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South End Dining

On a brilliant fall afternoon, and early dinner at one of my favorite dining spots: the South End Buttery. Like Dorothy in Oz, I begin my journey with a Ruby Slipper, but there’s nothing wicked or sinister about this yummy brick road. The halibut sounds delightful, and before I know it I’ve devoured the whole thing.

These little nooks of Boston are what I love most.

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Look What Popped Up at the MO

I love an unexpected pop-up, and I love sushi, so when I heard the news that a sushi stand was visiting the Mandarin Oriental in Boston I made it the next reason to visit that favorite city of mine. Set in a pretty corner of its handsome lobby in cozy proximity to the fireplace, the bar area is manned by a very capable sushi chef. A few seats are available for those who like to belly up to the bar, but guests are also welcome to sit at the lobby tables, which is where I ended up, taking in the warm wood and extravagant orchid bouquets on display.

I’ve said it many times, but it bears repeating: happiness is a hotel lobby and bar, particularly when it’s as fine as the Mandarin. This is the perfect stop for anyone who is slightly peckish, but not quite ready for a full-blown meal.

There are half a dozen maki selections, the majority of which clock in at $10 for 8 pieces – surprisingly reasonable for such fancy surroundings. I splurged on the Mandarin Oriental Maki, which is $18 for 10 pieces, but they are packed with crabmeat, avocado, and cucumber then topped with salmon, tuna, shrimp and more fresh avocado. Suggested wines are available by the glass as well, most hailing from France.

In the midst of the bustle of Boston, this was another exquisite respite fashioned by the expert powers-that-be at the Mandarin Oriental. Well worth a stop if you need a break.

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One Banging Hot Bistro

The New World Bistro Bar on Delaware is great at any time of the year, but I especially enjoy it in the fall, when Ric Orlando’s spicy fare warms the tummy and the tongue in fiery fashion. From a grand selection of hummus to a final cup of guava sweetness, this recent meal was a joy. Give me a beet salad bleeding with color and a fish dish thrillingly doused with a blaring symphony of fresh herbs, and I’m a happy guy. Too many places seem to be afraid of big flavor, especially in the timid confines of Albany, NY, but this space has no time for such wimpiness, and I couldn’t be happier about that.

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Puling Some Bastardized Pork

The original recipe called for some crazy banana leaf action, and digging a pit in the earth to properly cook a piece of pork, but I bastardized it with a slow-cooker twist because if you think I’m going to wrap a piece of meat in a leaf and sink it into the dirt of my backyard, well, you don’t know me at all. This recipe for Conchinita Pibil, modified from a recent New York Times Magazine story, is a spicy take on the traditional pulled pork. Here, an assembly of spices (and some judicial charring and spice-toasting) works to inject some badly-needed life into our pulled pork doldrums. It’s the perfect recipe for fall, when one brings the slow-cooker back into the kitchen, and it produces some exquisite aromas to welcome everyone back inside.

Cochinita Pibil, with a Slow-Cooker Twist

1 pork shoulder (3-4 lbs)

4 Tbsp. salt

4-6 garlic cloves, peeled

1 Tbsp. cumin seeds

1 Tbsp. black peppercorns

1 teaspoon whole allspice

1 Tbsp. red chili powder

½ teaspoon whole cloves

½ teaspoon cinnamon powder

1 Tbsp. Mexican oregano

4 Tbsp. achiote-seed paste (See substitute below if not available)

1 orange, zested and juiced

1 grapefruit, zested and juice

1 lime, juiced

1 small white onion, thinly sliced

Also:

– 1 red onion, chopped

– 1 teaspoon salt

– 1 habanero, seeded and finely chopped

Corn tortillas

  1. Score fat of the pork and evenly salt the meat while making marinade. In dry saucepan over medium heat, toast garlic cloves until charred all over, then remove. In same pan, add cumin, peppercorns, allspice, red chili powder, cloves, and cinnamon. Toast until you can really smell cumin and pepper. Grind spices in food processor until smooth, with oregano, charred garlic, achiote paste, citrus zest and half of citrus juice. {For slow cooker, I kept spices whole and didn’t use food processor, simply mix juice and spices together in bowl.)
  2. Set slow cooker on high and place pork in it, fat side down. Add sliced onion around and coat meat with citrus juice and spice mixture. Cook on high for an hour or two, then switch to low and cook overnight (at least 10 hours).
  3. Remove meat from cooker and shred with two forks, removing fat. Strain out solid spices from remaining liquid, then return meat to cooker to keep warm until serving. Serve in soft tortilla shell, with chopped onion, pepper, and salt if desired. Lime juice may also be used.
Achiote seed paste substitute:
  • 2 Tbsp. paprika
  • ½ Tbsp. white vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • ½ teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed

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Dinners With An Old Friend

My quick Washington jaunt was structured loosely around dinners with Chris. After my welcome-to-town brunch, I decided to keep the days to myself, and the rest of that first one passed in the blissful arms of the Topaz Hotel. Soon enough, and early dinner hour beckoned by the wine on-hand in the Topaz lounge – a very happy Kimpton tradition.

While Chris maintains his distracted on-the-go persona, always looking and planning for the next thing to do, I was happy to relax and enjoy the company of a guy I’ve known for over twenty years. Breaking bread with a friend is one of life’s greatest treasures, and Chris scoped out a pair of lovely restaurants for my stay: Dabney’s and Hazel. The dishes at each tasted even better than they look here.

Though we are in pretty regular contact (preferably through texting, ahem) there is still nothing that can substantially substitute for shared company. It’s not the momentous events that solidify a friendship, it’s all the little in-between time that forges such lasting connections. Of course, I’ll still write the occasion letter and send it off in the mail, old-fashioned style, and as that’s how our friendship began, it’s a tradition that will continue. For this weekend in Washington, however, there was no need for postage.

We delved into the past, and two decades in we find there is more to discover about each other (though I have a feeling Chris simply wasn’t listening the first time around) – and that will always be the hallmark of any worthy friendship: the way we feel comfortable sharing more and more of what we once kept secret. And the way we can look back over all those years and laugh about so much of it. When you realize that, you understand that what was important wasn’t necessarily what you thought was important. That always makes me relax a little more in the moment.

Sometimes it takes a good friend to remind you of the joy in the world.

(Especially if you’re devouring some excellent food at the same time.)

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Good Morning, Madame

A favorite meal, at any point in the day to be honest, this is a Croque Madame. Anytime you incorporate an egg onto a meal, I’m on board. And anytime you add ‘Madame’ to a title, I’m a fan.

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Breaking the Fast at the Bristol

Lobster Eggs Benedict at the Four Seasons’ Bristol Lounge. And a glass of orange juice.

Across the street, the Boston Public Garden.

The best of all possible worlds.

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A Pot Salad

More commonly known as potato salad, and a bastion of an American summer scene, this is my favorite dish of the season, mostly because everyone else does such a better job of preparing it that I beg until someone always delivers. While people always say it is a simple thing to make, anything that requires the added step of boiling potatoes (or boiling anything for that matter) seems like too much work for me. (I feel the same way about pasta salad.)

This one was made by Elaine, who brought it to a summer pool gathering. She does a wondrous version as so exquisitely seen here, with lots of hard boiled eggs (another step) and fresh herbs from her garden (hello, lovely dill).

I don’t know what other treasures are used in this fine side dish – it all feels like magic to me. Tastes that way too.

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NYC: A Helluva Town – Part 3

Afternoon Tea at The Plaza is the stuff of history and glamour, of Eloise and elegance. It conjures the ghosts of balls and galas that took place in the Palm Court. In the hallway leading to the Court, photos of Frank Sinatra and Mia Farrow from Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball hang directly across from a framed photo of Marilyn Monroe. These are the memories such storied walls hold. My mother and I slowly walk around, imagining the rustling of fancy skirts and the clinking of crystal.

It is my belated Mother’s Day gift to her, and as we are seated in a comfortable corner nook we nestle in to the surroundings with grateful ease. There is lots of walking to be done in New York, and never enough time for rest, but for the moment we pause and take in the breathtaking scene at hand.

We were both expecting a couple of high-priced petit fours and some fancy tea, but this was a full-bodied meal, presented on a three-tiered wheel that carries all the bang that its hefty buck commands.

The bottom layer was breads and pastries – a delightful scone and muffin combination. The second tier was all dainty sandwiches, and all quite different from one another. Scoff if you must at a finger-sandwich – when there are seven, and each one is a work-of-art in its own right, that’s a lot of damn good food.

At the very top was this gorgeous rendering of decadent desserts. If this was my daily existence, I could stomach living here, right next to Eloise, roaming the hallways, hiding behind velvet curtains, surreptitiously sneaking a bite-sized confection and gleefully enjoying a world of whimsy.

The entire ceremony was a lesson in refinement and taste, and by the end we were both more than satiated. All worries of it being an exercise in restraint and not enough food were more than put to rest.

Our weekend in New York had come to a close, and it felt like we had only just begun. That’s the spell the city manages to cast upon many of us. As much as I want to write it off, I simply can’t. In fact, I’m already looking forward to next year. (And maybe a high summer weekend with Suzie or Chris before then.) Whether it was the food or the shows or the warm comfort of being with my Mom, I’m ready to do it all over again.

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Harvest of the Sea

There are a lot of hidden gems on my hard drive, items that I copy then forget about until a scavenger hunt reveals something like these scrumptious shots of a distant dinner at Harvest. The trek to Harvard Square in the middle of winter is not exactly my idea of a good time, but when the journey’s destination is a place as wondrous as Harvest, it’s worth it.

When they had uni on the menu, it was proof that the stars had truly aligned. The first time I tried uni was a few years ago at O Ya in Boston – and if there’s one place where your first uni experience should be, that’s the one. Since then, I’ve had it a few times, but only this preparation and presentation has come close to that initial taste of heaven in a spiky shell.

About the only thing that could follow and top such a spectacular sea urchin start is this bowl of buttery Scituate lobster. With its combination of spaghetti squash and potatoes, coupled with an assortment of fresh herbs and microgreens, it made for a feast to please the stomach and the eye.

This was a decadent and elegant dish of comfort, elevated to an art form and energized with bright flavor. Colorful of palette, to taste and sight, it appealed on every level. This is the sort of dish I dream about during the day.

Maybe you’ll dream about it too.

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Lunch Trade

In the middle of the day, on the edge of entering the Seaport, a few restaurants and hotels line the little harbor area, and Kira and I slip into Trade for a little lunch. It’s one of those pockets of time that I will later come to treasure, the unplanned but perfectly-landed respite that acts as its own oasis and siesta in one. A glass of rosé and an octopus salad – no better way to begin.

With a zesty citrus dressing and cacophony of fresh herbs and fennel, the salad was a bright and brilliant blend of flavor and texture.

Trade is better known for its flatbreads, so we ordered two to share. First up was this Prosciutto with peppers and pickled onions. Those onions, and their briny preparation, made this one for me, though it was a close-call with the bacon and artichoke concoction below. With its generous helping of fresh herbs, it held its own with the pungent pickled perfection of its table mate. This was a delicious battle I didn’t mind fighting in the least.

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Macaron Madness

A rainbow of macarons sweetly but quietly shouts its delicious presence in all manners of flavor and color. It is the perfect break for the middle of the day, and a gentle reminder that we need to take a moment to savor the small things. If you’ll excuse me…

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Olives & Nuts

Another mid-afternoon snack idea to kick-start the salivation, here’s a perfect pairing for an early cocktail: olives and nuts. I love the olive bowl, a one-piece work of art that neatly provides a place for the pits. An elegant presentation for the inelegant conundrum of the pit(i)ful olive.

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