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Category Archives: Cologne

A Rare Ford Fail

All idols stumble at some point. Even Madonna makes mistakes. Most of the time when it happens, those blips are just as fascinating as the hits, and in the case of Tom Ford it’s more of a matter of taste than a god-awful move. Case in point is his Jardin series. It was the first Private Blend series in which I found not a single scent to love. The closest I came was ‘Ombre de Hyacinth’ which took one of spring’s seminal scents and turned it on its floral head.

This was the least feminine of the group, which also included ‘Café Rose’ – obviously a dose of rose, ‘Lys Fume’ – his twist on the lily, and ‘Jonquille de Nuit’ – his take on the jonquil. As much as I love his stuff, Ford’s florals are where we usually part company. His ‘Tobacco Vanille’ is too cloying, and his latest ‘Fleur de Portofino’ skews too old-lady for someone who traditionally embraces my old-lady-ness to an extreme. ‘Ombre de Hyacinth’ totters on that floral edge, and for the price point of a Private Blend there can be no teetering. Or tottering for that matter.

Instead, I’ll cling to my precious sample, dabbing it on when I’m feeling like a bit of heady hyacinth cloaked in the darkly gorgeous rendering of his olfactory madness. For my taste it’s a bit of a mess, but a mess by Tom Ford still manages to be a thing of beauty.

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His Name is Mr. Li

Just when I thought the spring fragrance election was down to two competitors, Hermès and its soon-to-retire fragrance genius Jean-Claude Ellena have thrown a sweetly-scented floral wrench into the plans, with ‘Le Jardin de Monsieur Li.’ The final planting in the Jardin series, this one reportedly opens with a subtle spray of citrus – specifically grapefruit, one of my favorite opening notes. It’s also said to be rife with jasmine, which is not one of my favorite notes, so we have a battle within a battle, and until I get a sample of it I’m not going to make any proclamations.

Of this I am certain: my anniversary wish list just got a bit more muddled, as this third entry makes for an unsteady group, even if a three-legged-stool is the most stable. Tom Ford, Diana Vreeland, or Hermès? Eenie meenie money mo…

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Tom Ford vs. Diana Vreeland

The battle for spring fragrance dominance is about to be waged, as Tom Ford’s latest Private Blend, Fleur de Portofino, goes head-to-fragrant-head with Diana Vreeland’s Smashingly Brilliant.

Ford’s latest Portofino addition (a line already established with Neroli Portofino, Mandarino di Amalfi and Costa Azzurra) reportedly includes notes of bergamot, citrus, osmanthus, acacia blossom and acacia honey. The latter two ingredients seem to provide the difference from the other Portofino flavors. According to the literature ‘Fleur’ is “inspired by the cascades of white flowers that spill off the branches of the White Acacia— a beloved shade tree that dots the Mediterranean’s gardens and lines its tranquil avenues. Fleur de Portofino creates a crisp and bright floral accord from this bloom, then surrounds it with effervescent citrus and acacia honey. The fragrance creates an effect of sheer floral possession that is incomparably hypnotic and extremely bold.”

Early reviews have indicated this is a very floral frag, and floral scents are not my favorite, so I’m not placing all my eggs in this Tom Ford basket just yet. Rather, I’m giving another Diana Vreeland offering, ‘Smashingly Brilliant’ a look-see, or smell-see as the case may be.

The House of Vreeland’s new summer  scent is said to contain bergamot, geranium, lemon, and suede accord. I tend to favor bergamot for this time of the year, and citrus is usually an integral part of any spring/summer fragrance. It’s not always lasting, but neither is spring. ‘Brilliant’ sound quite promising: “Smashingly Brilliant, created by Clement Gavarry, was inspired by Mrs. Vreeland’s love for the island of Capri. A play on contrasts, the fragrance combines the zesty freshness of citrus notes with a deep textured background. The burst of Lemon Oil and Calabrian Bergamot Oil is enhanced with aromatic notes of verbena, basil, and juniper berries. A luxurious heart of Geranium Lemon Living creates a bridge to the sensual dry down of suede accord and enveloping woods, offering a trail of mysterious depth and raw elegance.”

Capri or Portofino… it’s a beautiful dilemma. The battle for summer has begun.

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Winter Water: L’Eau d’Hiver

“He has the ego to believe that what he thinks is important, the intelligence to make it thoughtful, and the style and skill to put it across in a concise, detailed way. he has the informality of the French, which is to say he has the mode that, in a reactionarily formal culture, acts as a facsimile of informality: Informal interaction is as carefully crafted and ornately stylized in France as its officially formal counterpart; it’s simply delivered in a manner designed to give the appearance of being relaxed.” ~ Chandler Burr, ‘The Perfect Scent’

Ever since reading about the tantalizing ‘L’Eau d’Hiverby Jean-Claude Ellena in Chandler Burr’s enchanting ‘The Perfect Scent’ I’ve been desiring my own taste of that delicious juice. Andy was good enough to make that wish come true for Valentine’s Day, and right now there’s a bottle of Ellena’s ‘L’Eau d’Hiver‘ in my fragrance cabinet. It could not have come at a more perfect time, as many of us are in the midst of a winter deluge of unprecedented cruelty. Sometimes something pretty is all we have to combat this most wicked of seasons.

The origin of Ellena’s L’Eau d’Hiver, a scent he created for Frederic Malle’s ‘Editions de Parfums’ is fascinating, and not what one might initially assume:

“He conceptualized sleeping in hay in the summer. Heat. Sun. A powder that envelops without weight. He began the perfume’s construction with a gorgeous absolute of hay, one of the most sublime of all perfume materials. Hay is, as literally as possible, the smell of liquid summer sunlight. He wanted to create with it the scent of a cloud filled with sun. People expected L’Eau d’Hiver to be a cold water (the name means “winter water”). In fact, he was building the opposite, a hot water for a cold winter.

L’Eau d’Hiver smells of ultrafine ground white pepper and extremely fresh, cold crab taken that instant from the ocean. It is a brilliant, marvelous, utterly strange perfume, unique – it references nothing – and among the greatest ever created. ~ Chandler Burr, ‘The Perfect Scent

I too originally thought that “winter water” was meant to invoke a more literal reading of the season. The notion that it’s more of a talisman of sun and summer in the midst of this damned winter is a wonderful background to such a scrumptious scent. It’s also a quieter fragrance, something I’ve learned to appreciate the older I get. Whereas bangers like ‘Black Saffron‘ or ‘Amber Absolute‘ scream and demand to be noticed, there’s something to be said for a softer attack of seduction. There’s no longer such a need to grab the focus with such blatant strikes of silage, and the wispy yet still-substantial veil of L’Eau d’Hiver is precisely what my current mood reflects.

It’s definitely a diaphanous fragrance, powdery and ephemeral, with a hefty dose of heliotrope, which has always signified summer in the best possible way. How fitting that heliotrope should play such a major part – when all things helios are my sole focus in these frigid times. After a long hot shower, I spray it directly on my chest, and it warms me in the wildest winds. From the heart, it emanates heat and light throughout the day – a skin-close secret that fortifies against the cold.

“Perfume is an adjunctive sense, and time is indissociable from its creation. Time is also a sensual element, a sort of action at a distance which inscribes itself in memory.” ~ Jean-Claude Ellena

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Grey Vetiver Via Tom Ford

These are grey days. They call for grey tweed and flannel, wool and down-lined coats. The sky blends its dull shades into the mournful hues of the earth, and all of it bleeds together in one dismal monochromatic pile of wretchedness. Into this lackluster landscape, an interjection of something slightly sharp is needed, a jolt to wake up the senses, an inhalation to prime the points of inspiration. I thought I’d find it in Black Saffron by Byredo, but that burns almost too hotly and too sweetly for this time of the year. Better to save that for a winter party, where a smoldering bit of pungent fruitiness is more suited to accent an outfit of red. For the average office day of suits and wingtips, I turn to Tom Ford and his ‘Grey Vetiver’ masterpiece.

Like his recent ‘Patchouli Absolu’ Private Blend, Ford takes a classic (read: overdone) and imprints his pristine style and trademark elegance on it. In this instance, the age-old tried and true of elders ‘vetiver’ gets a fresh make-over that refines it for the modern man. (While many of Ford fragrances are deliciously unisex, this one is on the traditionally-masculine side, so entrenched is vetiver in the history of grandfatherly cologne.)

The latter is the reason for my hesitance in coming around to ‘Grey Vetiver’ – it always reminded of older gentlemen and their safe but uneventful olfactory adornments. Ford invests his version with a few updated accents. The sharpness comes in the form of citrus – tart and fresh and bright, like the sliver of sunlight caught in an icicle. Beneath this quick note is the heart of the matter – a creamy vetiver – and it carries for a few hefty hours with vetiver’s traditional potency. A few woody notes lend a wisp of warmth to the cooly elegant proceedings, rounding out the journey wondrously. More pin stripes than herringbone, more cashmere than cotton, ‘Grey Vetiver’ is a modern-day classic, and no one does that better than Tom Ford.

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When Tom Ford Gets Extreme

Before anyone gets the wrong idea, I have not gone off Tom Ford. Despite recent dabblings in Byredo and this Valentine wish (which is still in effect), my heart belongs to Mr. Ford. I’m simply not a fan of absolutely everything the man produces, which includes the recent Noir Extreme. I did not at all like the original ‘Noir’ he put out, so an Extreme version of that has the expected effect. It’s nothing against Ford, it’s more against the Noir.

Of course, in time tastes change, so I won’t say that one day I won’t be completely enamored of Noir, but that day has not yet arrived. Until it does, I’ll satisfy my Ford cravings with any one of his Private Blends, with the exception of ‘Noir De Noir.’ See, it really is a noir thing.

A perfect example of the evolution of cologne likes and dislikes is my relationship with ‘Grey Vetiver.’ When I first tried that I was decidedly unimpressed. Again, it was due mostly to a dislike of vetiver over any fault of Ford’s. Yet as the years progressed, I came around to the Grey, and it’s about to become a winter staple of my fragrance garden. There’s a lesson here. Never say never, and always give yourself the option of changing your mind. One more thing: Tom Ford is rarely wrong. The rest of us just take a little longer to get there.

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Not-So-Suffering Saffron

Undeterred by Jo Malone’s take on saffron, I returned to that spicy inspiration while exploring the world of Byredo Parfums this past weekend in Boston. My first brush with the house was in Las Vegas, of all places. I’d just won a hundred bucks on roulette and rather than letting anything ride, I took my paltry winnings and went directly to Barneys to have something to show for it. Since it was well over a hundred degrees (it being Las Vegas in August) I chose ‘Palermo’ – a refreshing grapefruit fragrance that lifted my heat-fatigued spirits. One never forgets their first time, and for better or worse the lighter, summery aspects of ‘Palermo’ meant that I unfairly relegated Byredo to a similar compartment.

This time of the year demands something darker and heavier, and despite my minimalist leanings earlier in the season, I decided I need something with a little more oomph. As I stepped into Barneys in Boston, I went back to Byredo in the hope that there was something richer than ‘Palermo’ ~ and there most certainly was: the bold ,the brazen, and the bodacious punch of ‘Black Saffron.’

This one has a riotous beginning, starting with a bang and not letting up until the very end. The saffron hits you right up front, followed by a luscious period of leather. Hints of petrol, in a not-entirely unpleasant way (but certainly not for everybody) dominate for a bit. Stay with it through this, don’t run away. It’s not going to explode, but it is something you’ve got to get over. Eventually, after a bit of dry down, the real gem reveals itself: a rich sweet oriental musk, almost cloying, and certainly not quiet. It’s got a similar flavor to that of the similarly-titled ‘Black Orchid’ by Tom Ford.

I thought I wanted to be quiet this winter, but sometimes you’ve just got to make some noise. ‘Black Saffron’ is here to shake it all up. Sound the alarm and prepare the olfactory systems. Full steam ahead.

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For Love of Winter Water: A Valentine Request

A winter weekend of solitude was accented by an exploratory fragrance journey to Barneys in Boston, whereby I tried out a trio of scents for winter wear. I was on the look-out for my Valentine’s Day wish list, and it boiled down to these contenders: ‘Bal D’Afrique’, ‘Black Saffron’ and ‘L’Eau D’Hiver.’ I went in expecting to purchase the ‘Bal D’Afrique’, and request the ‘Black Saffron’ as a Heart Day treat, but as is usual on my cologne expeditions, this one took a twist and a turn, and ended with me using some Christmas money to get the ‘Black Saffron’ right up front (more on that later).

Which means my Valentine’s Day wish list has boiled down to but one selection: L’Eau D’Hiver. Executed wondrously by Jean-Claude Ellena, this loosely translates as ‘Winter Water’ and is meant to personify this season’s softer, melancholy aspects with a powdery bit of heliotrope, tempered by iris and honey to add warmth. Somehow, the genius that is Mssr. Ellena comes through, as the scent manages to be both icy and warm. It’s also one of the most sophisticated fragrances I’ve tried in a while. Available online here from Barneys, it’s a price point down a notch or two from Tom Ford, which should be a relief to Andy. Unless he feels generous and goes for the 100 ml… (Relax, I haven’t given up on Mr. Ford, but his latest ‘Patchouli Absolu’ is not on my must-have list. L’Eau D’Hiver most definitely is. )

As for Valentine’s Day, as much as I appreciate the sentiment of flowers and chocolates and such, they never last, and if I stand any chance to turn my burgeoning belly around I can’t have candy in the house anyway. This season, it’s about the fragrance. (Hey, it can always be worse for the wallet: I could be touting the virtues of diamonds, and sending someone on an errand to Tiffany’s.)

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The Scent; With a Semi-Colon

Clean. Crisp. Citrusy.

This is ‘M; Men’ ~ a fragrance by Masakï Matsushïma. Pretentious punctuation aside, it’s a good scent for this time of the year, when I want things to be stream-lined and simple after the excess of the holidays and the clearing out of the seasonal decorations. To that end, this cologne lends its minimalist nature of citrus and vetiver (more on vetiver later) to create an atmosphere of refined simplicity. It’s got some tea notes as well for depth, but it’s not an overpowering scent by any means. I like that right now, when I’m looking to be quiet. Understated elegance trumps gaudiness… for now.

This is a bit of a lead-in post for my next Tom Ford acquisition. It’s not a Private Blend, so forget your fantasy of ‘Moss Breches’ or ‘Tobacco Oud’ and think more mainstream. Something for the office, for the day. A classic, given a modern Tom Ford twist. In the meantime, think M; Men.

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So-So Saffron

Bundled into a Jo Malone gift scent set that Andy got me for Christmas was the ‘Saffron’ scent pictured here (coupled, rather unimaginatively, with a jar of that pricey spice.) While the allure of saffron has thus far eluded me – both in taste and fragrance – I’ve seen some gorgeous work using it, particularly under Frederick Malle’s oversight, so I eagerly sprayed it on and waited for the magic to begin.

The best part is the first part. Opening with a strong saffron scent infused with leather, it’s a warm beginning, perfect for this time of the year. The leather adds a necessary gravitas that prevents this from becoming some incidental culinary concoction. Once it fades, however, we veer straight into the kitchen with a lingering dry-down of vanilla (the bane of my existence.) For this reason, I’m not a biggest fan. It does, as part of the intense cologne line, have a bit more staying power than much of Jo Malone’s offerings, but if it’s just going to be vanilla that stays, I’d rather the whole thing depart. This is one combination that’s better going into the stomach than onto the skin.

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Making Scents

From the time I was a little boy, fragrance has always been part of my style. When my mother was finishing school and had to be away on certain nights, I’d sneak into her bathroom and spray a bit of her perfume to remind me of her. One unintended bonus was when my Dad tucked me in and said I smelled nice. Maybe that’s what planted the seed, this flippant comment, thrown out in the dark of night to fill the silence, as some sweet, flowery magic settled around me. Since then, I’ve always been aware of the power of fragrance, its potency as a memory-conjuror, and the way it makes an experience unforgettable.

Take, for instance, the peony. There are three distinct, if fleeting, moments I recall from childhood, and all come to mind when I smell that flower’s perfume. The first is of a sunny early summer day in our neighbor’s yard. They had a long bed of them, in various shades of pink and white. I stood there, on the other side of a chain-link fence, smelling the fragrance waft through the metal, and reaching out my greedy hands to touch the pristine petals. Somehow, I wanted to become part of that beauty, to inhabit it and experience it and live in it. Mrs. Moyer came over and politely admonished me not to pick any. I’d hoped my admiration would result in a bountiful bouquet given out of the kindness of her heart. As a gardener myself now, I understand her reluctance to be so gracious.

The second memory is of a still day in my parents’ house. I bounded down the stairs and was about to speed out the back door into the sun-lit day when I paused. Alerted by some delicious scent, I looked around and saw a big bouquet of peonies. They filled the room with their exquisite perfume, probably the only thing that could have stopped the rush of a boy running outside – at least this particular boy. I walked over to the flowers and leaned into them, inhaling the richness and closing my eyes as I took it all in.

The third memory is even simpler: I’m standing in Suzie’s yard, feet wet from the rain that had come during the night, and smelling the somewhat-dampened fragrance of the heavy heads of peonies that were bowed down from the water. Nothing more, nothing less. I don’t know why I was there, or what we were doing, but I remember the peonies, and the perfume, and to this moment that scent brings me back to the possibility of a summer day.

Later, many years later, the peony would come to recall our wedding day, the magic of May, and that wonderful moment in the Boston Public Garden.

In a way, that’s the power I try to harness every time I find a new cologne to wear. I want to leave a memory in my wake, to make an impression. Like so much of my life, it’s done to create an effect, to leave someone – anyone -with something that they’ll remember. It wasn’t a particular scent I wanted to align myself with, as that would be dreadfully boring – but rather the connotation of something pretty, of something beautiful. It wasn’t, “That smells like Alan” which I wanted to conjure, it was, “That smells damn good.”

I’ll work on the Alan part later.

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A Perfect Read (And It Smells Good Too)

A vacation can be made or broken based on the books one brings along. For my recent excursion to Florida, I was lucky enough to have a great one: ‘The Perfect Scent’ by Chandler Burr. It’s a compelling comparison of the way two fragrances were made, and an inside study of the perfume industry. Aside from the subject matter (of which I am admittedly obsessed), Mr. Burr has a way of making the most complex molecular equations come to life, as he goes about the scientific and emotional pull of the making and wearing of perfume.

Since my first brush with Calvin Klein’s ‘Eternity’ in the early 90’s, I’ve always had an arsenal of fragrances on hand, ready for any olfactorial battle. I’d like to think my tastes have evolved and refined over the ensuing years. (Yes, I had my ‘Cool Water’ and ‘Curve’ moments, but there’s an easy rule of thumb when deciding on which cologne is right: if you can get it in CVS you probably shouldn’t get it at all.)

Of late, my obsession has been the Amouage line. Several years ago I tried my first sample, but I think it was too soon. I’d just gotten into the Private Blends of Tom Ford, and I was still finding my way in the fragrance world. Such development doesn’t happen overnight, and in much the same way that tastes for food evolve and change (for some of us), so too did my preference for certain scents. Now, I’m ready to give Amouage another whirl. For winter, I need something more substantial than Jo Malone, something deeper than citrus, and more resonant than a wispy floral. A Chypre or Oriental perhaps, and from the descriptions I’ve read that’s what Amouage does best.

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Not-So-Dirty Diana

The only real elegance is in the mind; if you’ve got that, the rest really comes from it. ~ Diana Vreeland

Believe it or not, I don’t pamper myself that often. It seems like I do, because those are the moments I like to write about and play up here, but for the most part my paycheck goes to the mortgage and car payments (I’m a bit behind) and food (ok, and clothing.) As for things like my Tom Ford Private Blends collection, those are mostly the generous special-occasion gifts from my husband. But every once in a while I treat myself, especially when something as pretty as this calls out my name. (Considering that no one seems to know what to get me from my Christmas Wish List, I have to take things into my own hands. It makes moving on that much easier. Besides, no one got me this, so it was a safe purchase – not that I was worried. No one on this earth knows me.)

Diana Vreeland was the arbiter of style during her famed reign as Editor of Vogue, and she had her own bold sense of fashion that went beyond what she wore and bled into how she lived. Her legacy lives on today, one of the rare fashion icons whose presence is still felt, particularly when a new line of fragrances carries her name.

I finally got to try the line at Neiman Marcus, and though a few had the requisite floral aspect that I was expecting, two carried a more masculine slant – ‘Extravagance Russe’ and ‘Absolutely Vital’. Both of those spoke to me, and I could hear the whispers of Ms. Vreeland daring me to wear one of her perfumes. I took the dare and chose the ‘Absolutely Vital’ (created by perfumer Yves Cassar.) Steeped in sandalwood, with just a shade of smoky sweetness, it’s somewhat similar to Tom Ford’s ‘Santal Blush’ but without the cloying floral aspect that Ford’s confection veers toward. Like its namesake, ‘Absolutely Vital’ is a little over the top, but that’s precisely the sort of scent I like for the holiday season.

You don’t have to be born beautiful to be wildly attractive. ~ Diana Vreeland

It matches the sparkle and sequins and holiday lights, and its sillage manages to be powerful yet elegantly restrained. It’s got flair and poise, but is well-behaved. Drying down into the mystical incense-like remains that the best sandalwood leaves behind, it is practically a religious experience. The packaging and the color of the bottles is exquisite – as bold and brazen as her infamous red drawing room in New York – each with a colorful tassel to set off additional brashness. In short, they are the perfect representation of the spirit of Ms. Vreeland: potent, vital, and with just enough power to pack a pretty punch.

“I loathe narcissism, but I approve of vanity.” ~ Diana Vreeland

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Of Fruit & Fragrance

Behold the pomegranate. I never really noticed any prominent scent from it (and I’ve done my share of de-seeding them in recent months) but the notion forms the base of Jo Malone’s ‘Pomegranate Noir’ fragrance. I have a feeling the House of Malone used the name for its image and connotation rather than any inherent perfume from its fruit, but when the resulting concoction is this good, it doesn’t really matter.

This scent is one of Malone’s stronger creations – far more substantial than the light wisps of beauty she usually conjures. That said, it’s still somewhat fleeting, requiring repeated applications, or a base of accompanying lotion to boost the lasting power. It’s gorgeous though – more rounded and fruity than I traditionally wear, but perfect for the holidays. I’m also enamored of the way the fruitiness subdues the noir aspects (I’m not a noir fan when it comes to colognes – even Tom Ford‘s ‘Noir et Noir’ doesn’t impress me much).

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Tom Ford Remixed

When one’s funds have depleted to the point where one can’t afford a new Private Blend from Tom Ford, one mixes and matches and comes up with a hybrid from what is already on hand. In this instance, I was seeking out some of his delicious ‘Oud Fleur’ without the $225 price tag, so I perused the cologne cabinet and came up with a comparable pair of Private Blends: ‘Oud Wood‘ and ‘Santal Blush’. The Oud is a classic Ford component, but I wanted to sweeten it up for the holiday season, so I added some of the ‘Santal Blush’ – and the result is pretty fantastic.

For the most part I frown upon mixing colognes. There’s too much possibility for disaster, and one never knows how those molecules are going to mingle or fight. It’s much safer not to mix and match. Some fragrances, however, are meant to intertwine, and this includes a number of Ford’s Private Blends. Being that they’re supposedly based in essential oils, they have a better chance at being compatible, and that was certainly the case with this poor-man’s facsimile of ‘Oud Fleur.’

As we get closer to Christmas, I’ll phase out the ‘Oud’ portion and stick with a few pure spritzes of ‘Santal Blush.’ It’s a perfect scent for those evenings when all is calm and all is bright.

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