Category Archives: Cologne

Not everything that Tom Ford touches turns to olfactory gold. I didn’t care for ‘Lost Cherry‘, I’ve never liked ‘Shanghai Lily’ and I wasn’t a big fan of ‘Rose Prick‘ when I finally got to try it. That meant a Valentine’s Day gift had to fall by the wayside, but Mr. Ford has so many other gorgeous scents there is always room for a do-over.

Over the years, certain Private Blends have started out as non-events for me, then grown into veritable obsessions. Take his very first PB, ‘Tuscan Leather‘. For too long I fought against its opening blast of pure, dirty leather, and for all that time I missed out on the beautiful raspberry dry-down. Only once I gave it a chance did it open for me. (My appreciation for deeper and more complex scents also had to develop a bit which is why if you think you hated something many years ago, I suggest you give it another try. Our tastes develop and change over the years.)

The same thing seems to be happening with both ‘Tobacco Vanille’ and ‘Tobacco Oud’ – both of which were unimpressive to me a couple of years ago, but have since become intriguing and desirable, to the point where either might make a lovely gift. I’ve been on a tobacco kick of late, with its smoky, resinous richness, and the way it embodies memories I’ve likely never had – a tufted leather sofa in a richly-wood-paneled library room, a green-shaded banker’s lamp, a bulky old overwrought desk, and a pipe from which perfumed smoke trails off in mesmerizing fashion. This is all fantasy, comprised from literature and movies and the like – the only actual memory I have of any perfumed pipe is the overweight gruff owner of an aquarium store in Amsterdam, who sat at his counter smoking a pipe while I surveyed clownfish and anemones. Not a bad memory, but nothing very glamourous. In my mind, I melded the beauty of the sea with the scent of a tobacco pipe. When growing up in landlocked upstate New York, these are the fantasies I had. We all come to favored fragrances in different ways, and my path to the two Tom Ford tobacco scents began all those years ago.

That said, I’m also open up to another delicious fragrance outside of the realm of Mr. Ford. In fact, before finding my way back to the ‘Tobacco Vanille’ I was toying with the idea of Frederic Malle’s, ‘Portrait of a Lady’, which is an absolutely exquisite scent. My hesitation in diving right into it stems from the fact that it veers perhaps too dangerously close to ‘Oud Fleur’ which I already have. Avoiding duplication is my new way of reducing expenditures. But if this is a gift, I would never turn it down. ‘Portrait’ carries a powerful rose note that would be lovely for spring leading into summer. We need more of that. And quite frankly, I need a new fragrance if I’m going to make it through this isolation period.

One of the main reasons I’ve been obsessed and enthralled with cologne has been its power of summoning remembered experiences. It’s long been believed that scent is the most powerful memory trigger, and in my experience that is most certainly the case. There are certain basic colognes from long ago that bring me back to my youth. Calvin Klein’s ‘Eternity’ provided the background to my late high school days. It was the springboard to a college career of ‘Cool Water’ and ‘Curve’ and ‘Safari’ and ‘Polo Sport’ – and I’m not proud of any of those choices, but to get a whiff of them now brings me back to very specific moments as I crossed from the teen years into my twenties.

For the past decade or two, I like to think that my taste has refined and evolved, thanks to a richer understanding of life events, as well as a bigger pocketbook. My tastes now are dominated by Tom Ford’s Private Blend collection, which have happily provided memory triggers that is actually worth more than their exorbitant price point. There is no price that can be placed on some of these memories. What price could you put on happiness?

A brush with the exquisite ‘Venetian Bergamot’ brings me back to a 40^thbirthday celebration in the Judy Garland suite of the Lenox Hotel, where we met a stuffed lion waiting beside a sparkling ruby red slipper. ‘Japon Noir’ is a smoky resinous beast designed for chilly November nights, a selection I usually save for special dinners with our family and Elaine – the pre-cursor to the holidays. Speaking of holidays, ‘Santal Blush‘ and its sandalwood sweetness have annually provided happy memory triggers, redolent of gifts of frankincense and myrrh.

A whiff of ‘Lavender Palm’ instantly conjures summer in the backyard, as mounds of lavender spill onto the pool deck, mixed and mingled with pushy stands of mint – both providing pleasant perfume when working in the area. 

The classic ‘Oud Wood’ is where my TF collection began. It was a gift from Andy, who gifted me many TF objects over the years, but not all. As we prepared for a family vacation in Cape Cod with a Boston stopover, I popped into the Neiman Marcus at Copley Square and purchased ‘Mandarino di Amalfi’ on my own because I loved it so much and could not wait. To this day, whenever I spray some on I think back to that wonderful vacation – our first with the twins – and an image of Andy and Emi lounging on the beach comes immediately to mind. The amber-hued August days in Boston are conjured with a spritz of ‘Rive d’Ambre’ from his line of Asian-inspired fragrances. That was another one that I loved so much I had to have it as soon as I tried it, and after letting it settle on my skin for a couple of hours I went right back in and got it.

Another gift from Andy, ‘Fucking Fabulous’ is actually a softer scent in spite of its brash moniker. I wore it for a couple of Broadway Mother’s Day weekend excursions with Mom, and it still kindles twinkling nights on Broadway, window shopping days at Bergdorf & Goodman, and endless walks up and down Fifth Avenue.

More summer memories were provided with ‘Costa Azzurra‘ which formed the spicy-sweet backdrop to our trip to Rehoboth Beach. The sun was deliciously hot, the waves were thrillingly immense, and the whole vacation – which coincided with another birthday – was an unexpectedly happy surprise. Along those lines was a rare summer visit to Ogunquit, when we knew we would be on the beach, where salt water met sand, smooth rocks glistened in the sun, and the scent of the ocean drifted on the strong breeze. Andy gave me an early anniversary gift of ‘Oud Minerale’ and worked with the salesperson at Bergdorf’s to insure that it reached us by the time we left for Maine. It worked out marvelously – the mineral elements matching the oceanic setting in a glorious bit of alchemy.

Finally, the coconut-tinged ‘Soleil Blanc’ provides one last dose of summer day memories, and this was another purchase I made on my own. The bottle was a steal (for TF prices at least) thanks to my Sephora VIP discount. (Tom Ford Private Blends never go on sale at other places; Sephora is now stocking more of them, and the VIP sales can usually be applied – a helpful hint hidden for those who stuck with this long-winded post until now.) ‘Soleil Blanc’ is summer incarnate – bright in its pure white bottle and golden seal – with the unmistakable nod to sun-tan lotion raised to an elegant echelon and drying down to powdery gorgeousness.

My cologne shelf is a treasure-trove of such fragrances and, more than mere scent, it’s a collection of memories lovely and dear, markers of the paths we have taken over the years, signifiers of all that we’ve gone through. It is a shelf that exists simultaneously in past and present and, if we’re lucky, future – for all that is to come. Every new day is the opportunity for a new memory, coupled with a new scent, waiting to be revisited on cold winter nights when loneliness creeps in through the cracks.

When you’ve already released a fragrance called ‘Fucking Fabulous’, the name ‘Rose Prick’ almost feels rather quaint. Of course it’s meant to be more provocative than that, as Tom Ford does so often and so well, but it’s the essence of rose that appeals to me more than the quad-controversial prick part, so let’s get into what I’ve read and heard about this mysterious cock-tease of a scent, and why I so badly desire it even as it’s yet unsniffed. 

Given its powder pink packaging and rose-tinted moniker, I initially didn’t give this one much thought or consideration, especially after the disappointment that was ‘Lost Cherry’. My indifference should have been a warning to me, like a protective thorn, that I should pay closer attention. The world seems to work that way, and once early reports came in indicating that this fragrance was not what it first seemed, I pricked my ears up and listened for the universal whispers. 

My first concern was that this was a redux of ‘Oud Fleur’ which is a rose-centered smoky oud delight, and one of my favorites, and I don’t believe in repeating or approximating Private Blends when they’re so expensive, but I was quickly schooled that this wasn’t anything like ‘Oud Fleur.’ Still, I sought out some excuse not to get into this, and we all know how it goes when you try to resist.

A few online sources provided additional firsthand information – this was not a super floral rose that ventured decidedly into stereotypically feminine territory. If anything, it was a patchouli and tonka-centered oriental take on rose, which is infinitely more appealing to me. Sillage and lasting power were reportedly in full TFPB effect, making this worthy of its price tag. Now I’m thorn, I mean torn, because I really covet this from everything I’ve heard, including the way it carries some serious pepper notes which I absolutely adore. 

I’ll be honest, I was not in the market for another Tom Ford Private Blend – I’ve got enough for life – but this one may delay that judicious decision. The heart wants what it wants as Valentine’s Day approaches…

Its resinous richness redolent of its namesake, ‘Amber Absolute‘ by Tom Ford is the perfect smoldering scent to greet the deep days of the fall season. I have a perfumed pathway that leads from September to December thanks to Mr. Ford and his Private Blends. It begins with the incense-like ‘Vert D’Encens‘ from his Vert line – the perfect September scent that carries some lingering sweetness from summer into fall. Those transition times are tricky, but the Vert series deftly straddles the shifting line of demarcation. After that, October brings the heat of ‘Amber Absolute’ – when fall is at its most radiant, when the forest leaves are on fire, and when the final warm days of the year release their splendor like it’s their very last show (because it is).

When October goes and November rears its cruel gray head, something smoky and dramatic is needed, which I find in the bracing ‘Japon Noir‘ – a dark shade of soapy night decadence that sparkles in the early blackness of evening. That’s a difficult one for day-wear, but I don’t mind subjecting the office to such a heart of darkness once in a while.

December calls for something special, with the celebratory spirit of the holidays when we need something to brighten the darkest and shortest days of the year. ‘Tuscan Leather‘ and ‘Santal Blush’ are the pair of unlikely sweethearts to see us through those holidays – the former with its smoky sweetness and the latter with its sandalwood opulence. Together they seduce the sense of smell, whispering and gently tugging at all those who follow in their sillage.

As we careen through autumn at full-throttle speed, I’m grateful for such small delights to ease the cooler days and nights. An embrace of cologne can be better than a hug, if you’re as cold as me.

If you’re going to get me to shell out $320 for a Tom Ford Private Blend, you’ve got to come up with a better name than ‘Lavender Extreme.’ That said, I’m intrigued. My interest is piqued. I doubt I’ll be sold – I have my fill of lavender-tinged scents with ‘Lavender Palm‘ and ‘Beau de Jour‘ – both of which feature the delicious herb, so I’m not exactly in the market for another. But I do want to know what it smells like, and the bottle is exquisitely gorgeous. I’ve bought more going on far less (such as ‘Fucking Fabulous‘ – which had me at ‘Fucking’ then seduced with its surprisingly delicate notes). 

I’ll give it a whirl… but I think my anniversary scent is with another house… possibly Hermes. Or Penhaligon. Or Kilian. 

A crisply-tied tie.

A pair of polished cuff-links.

A severe, pomaded side-part.

The makings of a gentleman now have the perfect olfactory accompaniment, whether of a day or a lifetime. Beginning with a burst of lavender, ‘Beau de Jour’ may be what Tom Ford’s recent series of fougere scents originally wanted to be. Not sure if I’m slightly chagrined that he waited to release the best after the rest of us got one of the others, or just relieved that there’s finally a fougere that gets elevated to the vaunted heights of the upper echelon of Private Blends – either way I smell damn good today thanks to this Beau, and my husband Andy who was sweet enough to present it to me on Valentine’s Day.

That lavender beginning, only the slightest bit reminiscent of Tom Ford’s own ‘Lavender Palm’, remains pretty clean for the first two hours of wear. A delicious shroud of green covers the initial spray – it reads rather mint-like for a moment (though the literature attributes this to a floral green geranium, which I love as well) before ripening into a richer oakmoss, with elements of basil shifting us deeper into verdant territory.

This is a decent Private Blend, even if it might require a spritz or two more to really make a statement. When I first started sampling this collection many years ago, I was sent a fragrance book of the original scents, with a few samples that ended up merging into one glorious TF amalgamation wafting out of the guestroom. That fragrance – an impossible to reproduce cacophony of the most lasting notes of some of those OG PBs – came to mind as this one wore on during the day. It was a gleeful turn of events, because I always end up trying to find the one dominant fragrance in a store like Barneys, where all their gorgeous scents blended together, and failing with my one selection. ‘Beau de Jour’ encompasses a little bit from a lot of other Private Blend bottles (I detected subtle reminders of the aforementioned ‘Lavender Palm’ along with faint echoes of ‘Fucking Fabulous’, ‘Fougere D’Argent’, and even a tiny bit of ‘Amber Absolute‘ and ‘Tobacco Vanille’ – all of which I favor.) That said, it still stands very much on its own – an elegant, distinguished gentlemen among rather more sordid brethren like ‘Tuscan Leather’, ‘Plum Japonais‘, ‘Japon Noir’, and ‘Santal Blush’.

Dashing onto the scene just in time for Valentine’s Day is a new Tom Ford Private Blend, ‘Beau de Jour.’ It will certainly take the guesswork out of Andy’s search for a heart-day gift, and though I hesitate getting a scent unsniffed, it has paid off handsomely in the past. A little glory is worth a little risk. There’s safety in the description, too, as the literature makes it sound like a scent made in my own little paradise planet:

“Classic. Sharp. Maverick.

Beau de Jour presents the perfectly groomed gentleman who considers every detail. He exhibits the best version of himself to the world, but underneath the surface is something deeper, refreshing and sublime in all its layers.

A fresh, commanding entrance of Lavender from Provence introduces the clean and fervent facets of the Beau de Jour scent. The cool and refreshing open is further amplified with an infusion of energetic hybrid of lavenders. The core beats with the herbal inflection of African rosemary and floral green geranium with its subtle hint of mint inflection, a powerful contrast to the leather-like warmth of oakmoss and the electric green of basil. Patchouli and amber create an earthy foundation of radiant wood and sensual musky warmth, further elevating Bea de Jour’s refreshing notion of masculinity through the finish.”

To say so much and so little in such breathlessly frilly prose is an art form unto itself, and that description alone is enough to set my olfactory excitement into overload. I’ve always been a fan of lavender, and was actually on the hunt for something similar to see us through the brunt of winter. Lavender is one of those calming scents that, when done right, eases the mind and relaxes the body. We need that more than ever in the winter months. I’m a big fan of Ford’s earlier effort with the scent: ‘Lavender Palm.’ That veered into slightly perfume-like territory, not necessarily a bad thing, but it lingered in the upper register of notes, whereas I prefer something a bit deeper. ‘Beau de Jour’ on paper sounds like it fills that bill.

Having most recently purchased his ‘Fougere d’Argent’ I am just the slightest bit wary of putting another fougere-like scent into the repertoire so soon, but the moment calls for peace and refreshment, and that’s what lavender does best. Stay tuned…

UPDATE: This weekend’s Boston visit afforded me the chance to try this one out and I was pleasantly surprised. I like it better than the other Fougere offerings Ford has released of late, and part of that is due to the lovely hints of lavender, along with some potent staying power. Definitely worthy of Valentine’s Day…