Category Archives: Boston

Boston Misadventures – Part 2

A number of years ago, I had made a trip to Boston to see Kira and wound up taking this same route to pick her up from work. Back then, my walk had taken place on a cold night in late fall, when most of the leaves were already down, and a chilly rain had fallen leaving puddles at every turn. What a change in such weather on this afternoon. With the heat rising, I walked through the center mall of Commonwealth Avenue, beneath the canopy of shade-giving trees, past the statues of historical noteworthiness, all the way to the entrance of the Boston Public Garden. In the midst of the glorious spring, I thought back to the last time we met in person – it must have been on this trip to Boston in January of 2020 – which was the last time I’d gone anywhere before COVID hit. I didn’t know the import of that trip, and how I would have to turn it into that year’s Holiday Stroll

Now, those memories mingled with the path of today, and they jarred me with a sense of sadness, a loss of that way of life. Maybe just for now, maybe for a while, maybe forever. Commonwealth met the Public Garden. I crossed the street and entered, wondering where Boston was sending me, what messages I was supposed to receive. 

“Take what you like, give what you want.”

The words were printed on this little stand that appeared as by magic in the midst of the Boston Public Garden. There was a message there. An important one, and a pertinent one. It holds true as much for friendship as for life. But there was something underlying it as well, a darker tone of ominousness that lurked right around the corner. I paused to take a photo of these puppets, spooked and slightly disturbed by them, as if they were some gingerbread house waiting to ensnare the unwary. Then I thought I should have more faith in people. As I walked around the stand, a person in a mouse’s costume sat next to it – I hadn’t seen them there and I was startled. Silent but for a nod, the human face beneath the mouse’s was barely discernible, and covered in lace, making for an even more disturbing visage. Backing away from the giant mouse, I came upon a trumpeter playing to no one in particular. 

If there was a message in his song, I could not hear it, and I felt like I was missing something, or going the wrong way. Still, I followed the path toward Beacon Hill, unwavering. Boston held its secrets usually for good reason. All would come right in the end, I had to believe. 

A fringe tree lowered its bowers and panicles of bloom – and suddenly a happy memory of Kira and I in this very garden came back to me. I’d unconsciously avoided the fringe tree I recalled – the one I made Kira pose in front of probably a decade ago. Now, inescapable and right in my way, I could not avoid it, or its sweet perfume. 

It smelled of the same intoxicating fragrance – bringing back that day, and other days even further back – in Suzie’s side yard, in the Wasilkowski’s front yard – in all these yards of childhood – and I wondered if life would be mostly memories from this point forward, and whether would that be entirely awful. 

At the end of the path, I crossed to Charles Street and followed it almost to the end, where a Thai restaurant – The King and I – had a table available for us. I sat down at the appointed time, and in a few minutes Kira walked in. It was the first time we had seen each other since January 2020. I sensed her to my right before I could bring myself  to look up to see her. Averting eye contact is my main tell of being upset with someone. 

So much had happened since that winter, and for so much we had been out of touch, as was her wont when things got difficult. I needed to talk to someone then, and she wasn’t there. Worse, she hadn’t shared what was going on in her life. Weaker friendships had fallen apart over far less, but so had stronger friendships. I knew this, and wanted us both to have an opportunity to address the last year and a half, and see where we were, and how we each wanted our friendship to continue. Could the pandemic have taken our friendship as one of its many casualties? For the first time, sitting across from her, I allowed the thought to cross my mind. 

We each spoke and we each listened. I felt our friendship still there, yet I felt it shift into something different. I also felt it hesitate and hold, and I embraced that. Such things weren’t to be decided or determined at a single lunch. We were not the rash young people we’d been when we first met in Boston in the fall of 1998. We would not yell and scream and storm out in a mad scene. We would not part in anger, nor would we part in happiness or resolution. Nothing is that easy anymore. We parted in a chilly uneasiness, unable to hug and stranded in our respective points of view. It was as bad, and as good, as it could have gone. For once, I expected the actual outcome, and it came to pass. 

It didn’t feel good, but it felt right, for now. In the past, when I’ve felt similar sadness, I’ve found my way to some body of water, to feel grounded, to feel connected to this world. Hastening my pace, I walked all the way to Boston Harbor, where I once walked after a guy I thought I loved didn’t love me back. On this day, I sought the coolness of the sea, to clear my head and help me see.

This was a different sense of loss – not quite complete, not nearly resolved – and I wondered at what other people had given up, willingly and unwillingly, over the past year and a half. There was a hardness in myself that wasn’t there back then – I felt it, and it was a good thing. It had gotten me through. In many ways there was less I was willing to accept, and in some ways there was more. Both seemed to be working against Kira and I hanging out for the moment, and that was ok. Part of me isn’t ready to hang out with people again anyway. 

Turning my back to the sea, I let the water keep some of my anguish, and then let some retail therapy work its magic like only shopping can. Emerging from the almost-bustle of downtown, I found my way back to Public Garden, feeling more grounded and more certain than a couple of short hours ago.

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Boston Misadventures – Part 1

It’s been well over a year since I’ve made a solo-overnight trip to Boston, and with my friendship with Kira in the balance, it was time. After looking at the weather, I moved this quick journey up by a day, so I’d have most of Thursday in town, while the sun was shining and the weather was warm. That turned out to be proper planning, as the city as alight in blossoms and beauty until I departed the next day. 

All the little squares before the brownstones were filled with flowering shrubs and plants. These tiny gardens, some protected by wrought iron gates and fences (which lend an even more inviting atmosphere with their dare-to-defy-it air of the forbidden) are often bathed in dappled sunlight, giving a feeling of shaded relief from a hot day

After parking the car, I walked through the bloom-festooned Southwest Corridor Park and stopped by the condo, where I peered out the window and looked down on this Chinese dogwood. One of the few times I’ve been afforded such a vantage point, it was a lovely welcome back to the city I love, and in which I still manage to find new enchantments, even if it’s in the simple turn of a new view-point. 

My main purpose for this trip was to see Kira, and see what could be done to improve or mend our slightly-frayed friendship. She’d gone through some difficult times in the fall of 2020, and basically stopped corresponding without explanation or reason. It’s her usual method of operation, but in 2020 I was having troubles of my own – who wasn’t? – and I relied on simple texting and phone calls with friends to keep me going. She wasn’t there for that at a time when I really needed it, and I know she was going through stuff of her own, which is why it would have been more timely and important to connect then. She tends to push friends away at those times, and normally I let that happen – this time was different. We’d gone several months without getting in touch, and my sadness began to be shaded with anger and annoyance. Not one to be rash or quick to end a decades-old friendship, however, I wanted to re-connect and see what we could do to make things right again. 

Usually, I’d have invited Kira to spend the weekend with me at the condo, but this was a different world, and that just wasn’t possible. All I could do was meet up with her for a lunch near her workplace, so I made my way to Beacon Hill

Taking my time, I peered into the garden plots along the way, pausing to take a picture, or sniff an iris, or just to let a memory make itself known, and remembered. 

Boston is filled with such ghosts for me, especially now. They are mostly happy conjurings, accompanied by wistful half-smiles, and sometimes little chuckles. The older I get, the more they tend to move me, and the sadder ones feel more poignant with the passing of time, and the arrival at places closer to wisdom and acceptance. On this day, I recalled the ghosts of Kira and myself – and the much-younger and less-formed shapes of the people we would one day become. I protected those memories, and set up a fortress around the past, much like these little iron gates that forbid access to the flowers and plants that stood behind them. I just couldn’t tell if I was putting up gates to delineate the past from the present, or whether this was an ending or a temporary protection. It was a beautiful and bittersweet befuddlement, and Boston would send me on another journey that answered far fewer questions than it raised…

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Lowering Expectations

After missing last year’s BroSox Adventure, both Skip and I are doing our best to temper our excitement and expectations for our Return to Boston next month. Lower expectations are the best and smartest route to take when emotionally prepping for a weekend away these days. We’ve had one too many events canceled over the last year plus, so I’ll be content with a simple weekend in my favorite city. 

Truth be told, it’s never the big bombastic events and moments that make up the most resonant memories I keep of Boston – it’s the quiet in-between sections, the down-time that occupies the majority of a weekend away. A simple selection of croissants from Cafe Madeleine, or the early afternoon siesta that somehow seems to happen even when it’s never scheduled. The casual looseness of a little pied-à-terre tucked away on the second floor of a brownstone, looking out over a gurgling fountain… the simple minutes of stillness that border on mindfulness… the feeling of being completely removed from the world while in the center of the city… this is Boston when the summer slips into place. 

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Boston Wedding Anniversary 2020/2021 ~ Part 4

Making up for missing our tenth anniversary last year may seem like a good moment for going all out and throwing down the party gauntlet, especially after a year of staying home, but it felt better to keep things quiet and intimate, the way our marriage has grown and evolved over the years. That made this anniversary weekend somehow more special – it was as much a return as it was a new beginning – the same way we are all navigating this new world. 

Boston had evolved and grown as well – the European flavor of open-air cafes beside restaurants that would have never considered outdoor dining options before was its most apparent update – and as scary as change can sometimes be, this felt right. 

Uniting the blooms of upstate NY home with our home in Boston, these lilacs bridged New York and Massachusetts, proving that home was wherever you brought your loved ones, and sometimes it was wherever you found simple beauty. 

And now the purple dusk of twilight time
Steals across the meadows of my heart
High up in the sky the little stars climb
Always reminding me that we’re apart
You wander down the lane and far away
Leaving me a song that will not die
Love is now the stardust of yesterday
The music of the years gone by

Eleven years into our marriage – and almost twenty one into our relationship – the memories and the history we share emboldens us to keep going, and helps us to survive such trying time we have all had of late. Winnie-the-Pooh said it’s so much friendlier with two, and on magical weekends like this it rings absolutely true. 

Sometimes I wonder, I spend
The lonely nights
Dreaming of a song
The melody
Haunts my reverie
And I am once again with you
When our love was new
And each kiss an inspiration
But that was long ago
And now my consolation
Is in the stardust of a song

For our last dinner of the trip, I wear ‘Straight to Heaven by Kilian‘ and we order a car that will bring us to one of Andy’s favorite restaurants, Boston Chops. 

There we have a delectable steak dinner to cap off a weekend of good eats, good memories, and good times with my husband. 

As we head home and retire for the evening, the rain arrives. It has held off until the midnight hour – for which we are completely grateful – and now forms a cozy reminder of the rain that arrived on the day we departed Boston eleven years ago. We hear it splash onto the windows and the air conditioner, forming a percussive soundtrack to lull us to sleep. 

The next morning, in spite of earlier weather reports, the rain is completely gone. There are even peeks at blue sky through the clouds. I pick up some pastries from Cafe Madeleine and bring them back for our breakfast, pausing to look at the flowers along the way, like this snowdrop anemone, which nods its head in the slightest of breezes. 

A last look belongs fittingly to the delicate blue blooms of the forget-me-not. Until we return to this beautiful city…

Beside the garden wall
When stars are bright
You are in my arms
The nightingale
Tells his fairytale
Of paradise, where roses grew
Though I dream in vain
In my heart it will remain
My stardust melody
The memory of love’s refrain

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Boston Wedding Anniversary 2020/2021 ~ Part 3

Our third day in Boston – the last full day we would have on this trip – blossomed in sunny fashion, and we wisely saved our walk through the Boston Public Garden for this moment. Before that, however, we slept in, and looked out sleepily at the fountain in the middle of Braddock Park. Back in 1995 when my parents purchased the condo, the fountain wasn’t even working, but a few years later the neighbors got it functional again, and it is a happy bellwether for better weather. It now trickles its soothing sound from spring until late fall, taking a winter slumber only to return when the sun is high and warm. 

On this morning, we made our way to the Public Garden, to the place where we made our wedding vows eleven years ago. It was on a day quite similar to today – bright and sunny and just warm enough to not merit a jacket. 

Night and day, you are the one
Only you beneath the moon, under the sun
Whether near to me or far
It’s no matter darling, where you are
I think of you night and day

Day and night, why is it so
That this longing for you follows wherever I go
In the roaring traffic’s boom
In the silence of my lonely room
I think of you
Night and day

This wedding cake shrub is a favorite – as much for its name as its perfectly timed blooming period. It was there on our wedding day too, and we posed in front of it with our gathered friends and family. Today it brought back those memories, and at such moments we were reminded of how wonderful the world and its inhabitants can be. 

Perched high in the air, fruit tree blossoms dangled like cream-colored bells, ringing silently in the slightest breeze. The tulips were just slightly past their prime, but a few were hanging on to give us a show. 

In a more secluded corner of the Garden, a coral-colored quince bloomed in its shady nook, near an angelic fountain that lended more flowing water to the calm at hand. 

There is magic to be found at all times of the year in the Public Garden, but we are partial to spring, and this spell of May in particular. 

While the city thrashes about trying to drag its ponderous history into a new world, this little refuge of beauty and simplicity, majesty and wonder, retains its enchanting essence. 

At the entrance to the Garden, which was now also our exit, a few bleeding hearts hung their exquisite blooms as if bidding us adieu until the next time.

Reluctantly departing such a pretty scene, we ambled back to the condo, and on the way we watched this little bunny scurry into the front garden square of our building. There are always signs that we are right where we are supposed to be, and this rabbit was a symbol we’d see from time to time on our visits. I rarely saw it when I was in Boston alone, but when Andy’s been here it always makes an appearance. 

It was almost time for one more dinner in Boston…

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Boston Wedding Anniversary 2020/2021 ~ Part 2

Our second day in Boston was bright but slightly overcast. The flowers were all in bloom, and there was a breeze, on the cool side, which made for good walking conditions. Andy slept in and I went shopping for some snacks and whatever other silly triflings offered themselves up. Such a simple endeavor, but what a wonderful return to something I’ve not been able to do in such a long time! 

Boston in spring bloom will always be a balm on the most troubled soul. These happy little faces peered out everywhere I went, a reminder that whatever state the world wound its way into, nature would maintain its beauty. 

Meanwhile, music played in the mind as I walked throughout the city…

You’d be so easy to love
So easy to idolize
All others above
So worth the yearning for
So swell to keep every home fire burning for…

We’d be so grand at the game
So carefree together that it does seem a shame
That you can’t see
Your future with me ’cause you’d be, oh
So easy to love

Returning to the condo, I picked up Andy for our tradition of washing the rings. Shreve, Crump and Low is still blessedly in business, so we made our way to Newbury Street to have our wedding rings cleaned. We perused the gems and jewelry, but stayed downstairs instead of straying to the more tempting second floor of watches. When you’ve just replaced a furnace, a pink-diamond-studded watch is not on any list of priorities, sadly. 

Neither is this cherry red Shelby, replica or not, but I asked Andy to pose in front of it anyway, on a stretch of Boylston beside the Lenox Hotel. Boston is lined with memories of past adventures, and we added this little encounter with Miss Shelby to that lovely reservoir. 

Into every anniversary we usually add something new – in this case it was our first dinner at No. 9 Park – a Boston classic that we’ve somehow never managed to try until now. Peering over the edge of Boston Common, it made for a cozy little space perfect for the windy evening. Andy began with some recommended Blanton’s bourbon in this sunny sour, while I took the bartender’s suggestion for an elderflower and citrus mocktail. 

I began with this beautiful red snapper crudo, served with rhubarb, watermelon radish, and kumquats while Andy enjoyed some shrimp. 

We haven’t had an opportunity to break out the blazers in such a long time that it no longer felt like a burden. 

No. 9 Park sent out a round of champagne, which Andy had the responsibility of finishing – a lovely complement to our anniversary weekend. 

We both decided on the octopus for our entrees, and it was tender and almost creamy – a far cry from my three-hour braising attempt several summers ago. Best to leave the octopus to the experts, as I simply have to admit defeat when it comes to preparing certain dishes. 

Topping the meal off was a pair of desserts – this was my mango dish; Andy chose a pineapple one. Both were grand endings to another delicious meal. Boston was welcoming us back in ways both sweet and satisfying. 

{Fragrance (and underwear) of the evening: Fucking Fabulous by Tom Ford.}

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Boston Wedding Anniversary 2020/2021 ~ Part 1

The city looked and felt differently from when we last met. In a year fraught by a pandemic, Boston had been forced to update its cobblestone-weighted history and forge a new way, like the rest of the world. Yet spring still returned, and as we made our way back to celebrate our 10th and 11th wedding anniversaries, it felt like there was hope in the cool air. Happily, we would find Boston filled with blooms and sunshine and all the typical accoutrements of a proper new season, because no matter what happened in the previous year, spring would do her song and dance. 

As we pulled out in Andy’s least favorite car ever, it felt strange and wonderful to be going somewhere at last. The drive was a sunny one, with a perfect blue sky studded with the occasional white cloud, and we arrived to blooms and blossoms along every path. 

The Southwest Corridor Park – our main route and access to the condo – had just begun its season of glory, with everything from the lowliest geraniums to the American dogwoods that flowered even before their foliage deigned to peek through. 

Even more dramatic was this yellow-hued bleeding heart, whose pink flowers danced thrillingly against a sea of chartreuse leaves, the combination a pretty little marriage of color and light – a celebratory pas de deux emblematic of all the love that was in the air.

There was music too, sweet music that called to us from memory, and a soundtrack largely culled from the work of Cole Porter. 

You do something to me
Something that simply mystifies me
Tell me, why should it be
You have the power to hypnotize me?

Let me live ‘neath your spell
Do do that voodoo that you do so well
For you do something to me
That nobody else could do…

Andy graciously provided the new fragrance that will mark a new memory: Tom Ford’s latest Private Blend ‘Soleil Brûlant’ – an exquisite spring and summer scent that has already carved out a place in my cologne-loving heart. 

After a largely gray and drab winter of discontent, the colors and sights of Boston were again a wonder to behold, and seeing them after such a long time away imbued them with an even greater freshness and potency. 

We dressed for our anniversary dinner at Mistral – which was the only restaurant from our original trio of wedding restaurants that remained open. A sad commentary on what the past year has wrought, but we focused on the magic of Mistral and had a lovely dinner. 

Andy tried out their Tahitian sidecar while I opted for this lemony fresh mocktail. We looked around at the other diners and felt a jolt of normalcy. Simply dining in the vicinity of other people was tinged with a giddy nostalgia. 

Pistachio chocolate profiteroles capped off a wondrous meal, and I thought back to our very first dinner as a married couple eleven years ago. Many memories had been made since then, and we carried all the memories from the ten years before that, when we first met in 2000. They felt both far away and impossibly recent – the ticking of time a constant and unnoticed rhythm that fades into itself unless marked by something memorable, like this return to Boston. 

It was a very sweet ending to our first day back…

{Fragrance of the Evening: Portrait of a Lady.)

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Mandarin Hospitality

“Hospitality means primarily the creation of free space where the stranger can enter and become a friend instead of an enemy. Hospitality is not to change people, but to offer them space where change can take place. It is not to bring men and women over to our side, but to offer freedom not disturbed by dividing lines.” ~ Henri J.M. Nouwen

It should come as no surprise or secret that one of the things I’ve missed most in the past year-plus of not traveling is the joy and indulgence of staying at a hotel. There is something thrilling about inhabiting any home-away-from-home, especially if an establishment is skilled at the art of hospitality. Auspiciously, that spell away from such joy is about to come to a happy ending, as I’ve just booked a visit to the Mandarin Oriental in Boston for next month. No other hotel has their hospitality game as together as the team from MO. 

My first brush with the Boston Mandarin Oriental came shortly after they opened their five-star spa and I won a certificate for a massage. Ever since then, I’ve been spoiled for massages and services, as the experience was beyond any other I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying. It isn’t only their spa that’s amazing – all of their services and spaces have proven exquisite, from the lobby to the restroom; I’ve stopped in whenever I’ve been in Boston, sometimes for a spa treatment, and sometimes just for a cocktail

My first proper overnight stay at a Mandarin Property took place a little later in Washington, DC, for my cousin’s wedding. The pool and spa and other on-site amenities were such that one barely had the need to wander far to find beauty and relaxation – and the wedding reception that took place at the hotel itself was an essay in celebratory refinement. Since that time I’ve been waiting for the right moment to indulge in a stay at their Boston location, and when Skip and I started planning this year’s Boston trip, it felt like the perfect time.

We’ve booked a room to celebrate our comeback for another BroSox Adventure. Combining a Red Sox game and the fortuitously-tied LGBTQ+ Pride celebration in one glorious June weekend, it will mark a return to everything we once loved in an age of uncertainty and ultimate triumph. Boston, baseball, friendship and hospitality ~ I can’t think of a better place than the Mandarin Oriental to honor such a tradition.

{Bonus: their renowned Spa just reopened too. To keep up with all their updates and amenities (such as the cool crew of bikes available as seen below) follow them on Twitter or Instagram.}

“True hospitality is marked by an open response to the dignity of each and every person. Henri Nouwen has described it as receiving the stranger on his own terms, and asserts that it can be offered only by those who ‘have found the center of their lives in their own hearts’.” ~  Kathleen Norris

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Old Friends Gold

NEW FRIENDS SILVER
OLD FRIENDS GOLD
WE’RE LIKE DIAMONDS
TRUTH BE TOLD
PEOPLE COME AND PEOPLE GO
WE KEEP SHINING SOUL TO SOUL

For our first few BroSox Adventures, the theme song was ‘Something New’ – it felt like a good embodiment of my friendship with Skip, but after our epic 2019 excursion we were planning on shaking things up a bit, since it was no longer so new. The world took care of that for us in 2020, shutting down all travel entirely, and forcing a change-up upon us even if it wasn’t entirely welcome. As we plan our return to Boston this year, it seems like the right moment for a new song to pair with the moment. As Skip is the newly-obsessed fan who brought me back to RuPaul’s Drag Race earlier this year, it’s fitting to make this one of the theme songs for our next journey.

SUN WENT DOWN IN OUR HOMETOWN
THEY ALL GOT MARRIED, I DIDN’T STICK AROUND
I SET MY SIGHTS ON HOLLYWOOD, OH, OH
I NEVER WENT HOME AGAIN, WENT HOME AGAIN
MOST THINGS CHANGE, BUT SOME THINGS DON’T
CAUGHT IN A CYCLE LIKE THE TWILIGHT ZONE
THEY WOUND UP IN THE LOST AND FOUND, OH, OH
NEVER HEARD FROM AGAIN, HEARD FROM AGAIN

The break of 2020 was a good delineation between those first chapters and what is to come. In many ways, we are starting a new story, a new journey, as we are both in very different places than we were when we last took Boston by gleeful storm. A couple of years into those early adventures, I remember sitting in Fenway Park remarking that I hoped we would still be doing this when we were 80 years old. To sustain it, we change and evolve as the years pass, and the world crumbles and rebuilds itself around us. Throughout it all, we maintained and sustained a modern-day friendship – by texting and social media interaction and the occasional socially-distant meet-up for shopping at Trader Joes or a shared coffee in the Starbucks parking lot, shouting from our cars as a late-winter snow shower began spitting from the sky. 

NEW FRIENDS SILVER
OLD FRIENDS GOLD
WE’RE LIKE DIAMONDS
TRUTH BE TOLD
PEOPLE COME AND PEOPLE GO
WE KEEP SHINING SOUL TO SOUL

It takes quite a bit to break through into my true friendship circle, but once that happens, when my armor is breached, I tend to be quite loyal. Skip’s loyal in the same way, and I always feel a badly-needed sense of safety when I’m with him (and his amazing wife Sherri for that matter). During this past year, most of us have come to realize the importance of friends and family, and the way the simplest interaction and contact is vital to our well-being. 

As we begin planning for our return to Boston, we know how much the world has changed. Will it go back to what it was before? I don’t know. Certainly not yet, and certainly not by June. But what has remained blessedly stable is the friendship we share, and the excitement we feel whenever the thought of a Red Sox game rears its head at this time of the year. 

KINDA LOST TOUCH, BUT WE NEVER FELL OUT
FROM HAPPY TO HEARTBREAK, TURNING UPSIDE-DOWN
AND EVEN WHEN THE CHIPS WERE DOWN, OH, OH
I ALWAYS KNEW I HAD A FRIEND, I HAVE A FRIEND
NEW FRIENDS SILVER
OLD FRIENDS GOLD
WE’RE LIKE DIAMONDS
TRUTH BE TOLD
PEOPLE COME AND
PEOPLE GO
WE KEEP SHINING
SOUL TO SOUL

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Recalled to Boston Life

Gearing up for a couple of Boston weekends in the not-too-distant future, our first trips in far too long, I’m doing my best to contain my excitement, as too many exciting plans have been dashed int he past year. Instead, I’m taking a contemplative look back at some previous visits, such as this one from April 2019, in which a relatively large contingent of some of my favorite family and friends descended upon the city for one spectacular weekend. My Mom and my niece Emi arrived first, and I had an early dinner with them, then Kira joined me at the Copley Fairmont, and we made our way to the condo where the Montross family was cozily ensconced on a rainy and windy night. It remains one of my favorite Boston weekends that somehow worked out perfectly. Bonus: Madonna had just released ‘Medellín adding to the magic and majesty of the moment. And soon, we shall begin a few new Boston chapters… 

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Back to My Beloved

For the first time in forever, I got to do one of my favorite things in the world: plan a Boston weekend and reserve some restaurant dinner options for our wedding anniversary. We missed out on celebrating out tenth last year, so this time it’s going to be #10 and #11 at once. Originally I had thought we’d be doing a ten-year encore of that happy May day a decade ago, with the same cast of characters invited (missing Andy’s Dad) and going out to the same places. That was part of why we selected such stalwart establishments like Top of the Hub and Mistral and the Bristol Lounge at the Four Seasons

Then the world stepped in and shut everything down, so no one was going anywhere. Worse, two of those restaurants ended up being casualties of COVID: Top of the Hub and the Bristol Lounge. So this year, we will return to Boston for the first time in months, taking tentative steps to something that resembles regular life, while celebrating the place where we got married so many years ago. The lessons of 2020 have taught me not to have great expectations, while enforcing the necessity of holding onto hope. 

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BRB

They’re having a rising season thus far, as the Boston Red Sox keep trundling along, and they have a series of home games in early June, the typical time Skip and I make our way to Boston for our annual BroSox Adventures. This year we are trying to resume the tradition after a year off when the world fell to pieces. There is much to catch up on – not just the changes the have come over Boston, but the deeper changes that a few quick meet-ups over the last year could never recapture. 

Much like my upcoming anniversary weekend with Andy, I’m not making detailed itineraries – this is no time to tempt the fates. Instead, a more general announcement will go out, because I’m finally feeling a genuine sense of hope and happy gatherings on the vaccinated horizon. 

That’s how this Sunday is vibing for me – hope and happiness and looking to the horizon. Even as the rains come – and we are badly in need of them – there are plans set not in stone, but in the wisps of Palo Santo smoke. Go Red Sox – we’re coming back, and it’s going to be a whole new ball game

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The Holiday Stroll 2020: Back On After All

The devastation of missing pretty much all the social event traditions of 2020 was hitting me a little harder than usual when I wrote this somewhat-bitter post about canceling this year’s Holiday Stroll. Kira and I hadn’t missed one since we started strolling back around 2011. While I’ve done my best to make the most of 2020 as a year for resetting and clearing the entire deck of social activities, this one left me sadder than others. Maybe it was because I was hell-bent on making it happen in the face of all odds (going so far as to entertain a possible day trip on which I’d meet Kira on her lunch break and do a quick walk up Charles Street in half an hour then drive home). Maybe it was because I wanted to hold onto the one thing that might make us feel normal again. Maybe I just desperately missed a friend I haven’t seen since last winter. Instead, all I could do was recap our almost-decade-long archives of holiday strolls… or was it?

When seeking out a photo of me and Kira from last year’s stroll, I ended up back in the already-dusty vaults of folders that held pictures from early 2020, in the relative innocence of January and February, when most of us (with the notable exception of the fucking President) had no idea of what was about to happen to the world. As I opened up a few photos from a mid-January Boston weekend with Kira, I stumbled upon a group that I had never posted, from a snowy walk in the Public Garden ~ the original site of our very first Holiday Stroll. Suddenly I realized we had indeed done a Holiday Stroll in 2020 ~ it just came strikingly and unknowingly early.

And so, on this morning in December, when we might have been waking in Boston to the last day of our typical stroll, I’m assembling a virtual post to mark the crazy kind of time-warping enchantment required to move months in a year that has already stolen too much from us. I will go back in time, resurrecting a beautiful snowy weekend and transforming it into our annual Holiday Stroll through photographs and words, the way art can reform and reshape the world, conjuring what could have and maybe should have been, crafting a life that exists in the wondrously messy muck between a wish and a dream.

On our very first stroll, circa 2011, it was snowing as we headed out on that Saturday morning. Just a light snowfall ~ nothing like the foot-high blanket that transformed the entire park for these photos. On that first excursion, the snow was a welcome hint of the holidays. 

Quite frankly, we had no idea what we were doing. I mean to say that we had no idea that it was the start of a tradition that would mark our holiday seasons from that point forward. Upon seeing the snow, and just being stupid and silly, I remarked that this would be our ‘Holiday Stroll’ as we descended the steps of our building. As amused and dismissive as ever, Kira just went with it, and by the time we made our way to the edge of the Boston Public Garden, a new tradition had been born. 

On that fateful morning, the snow fell slowly and lightly. There wasn’t a single gust of wind, and while cold, the beauty of the scene gave everything a slightly cozy feel to it. We huddled together as we walked through the Public Garden. I’d just purchased a hat on the way – one that went over my ears and fastened around my chin, so I was actually quite toasty. Kira was on the hunt for some new gloves or mittens, so we hastened our pace beneath the barren willows. 

We made our way out of the Garden and onto Charles Street. I knew of a Tibetan store there that would have some heavy and warm gloves and hats and scarves, and Charles Street was a quaint walk, especially during the holiday season. There, Kira found a pair of gray patterned gloves, knit in a heavy wool, and she sighed in grateful relief for the added warmth. We were back on the street doing a bit of window shopping, and that was pretty much the event of our first Holiday Stroll. 

We didn’t know then that our little walk would lead to so many future strolls, or that they would become such planned and plotted extravaganzas. Looking back in subsequent years I would find myself simultaneously trying to recapture the simplicity of that first walk, while making each and every ensuing year that much better. A crazy losing battle of my mind, but that’s what holiday madness is all about. 

One doesn’t realize an ‘annual’ tradition on the first or second try, though, so the next year when I suggested another ‘Holiday Stroll’ we still weren’t quite sure it would be a thing, but we did it, adding a few more stops, incorporating some dining and drinks along the way, and making it quite a merry and festive affair. That solidified the event, carving it into our friendship history. 

By the third year, I’d developed an itinerary, right down to the minute, and expanded our stroll from Saturday to Sunday. There was too much fun to be had in limiting it to a single day or walk. As with many best-laid plans, that first itinerary blew up in my face. The weather was foul – an infuriating mix of rain and wind that rendered umbrellas trifling things – and the stores nearest the condo that I had planned on hitting first, at precisely 9:15 AM after a ten-minute breakfast stop at Cafe Madeleine, didn’t open until 11. Approximately 75% of the rest of that ridiculously-detailed itinerary went by the wayside, a valuable lesson I needed to learn the hard way. 

It was also becoming clear to both Kira and myself that these strolls weren’t about the actual walk, or the shopping, or the dinner reservations we sometimes had to hurry to meet. It was about the in-between moments, the lulls that revealed a true friendship, when you could sit with someone in silence and have it mean more than any fancy, gussied-up dinner appointment. 

At the end of each of our Holiday Stroll weekends, it wasn’t the actual walk I remembered, it was a little jewel of a moment with Kira…

…the brief pause in the lobby of the Lenox Hotel, where we sat by the fire and the Christmas tee, setting our bags down and letting our feet rest…

… the endless parade of dim sum in the heart of Chinatown, where we stopped on a whim of sustenance…

… the sweet potato pause in the middle of ‘The Man Who Came to Dinner’, wherein we would stop the movie and move our cozy party to the kitchen where we’d share a ‘Hot Sweet’ from the oven…

… the fragrant whiff of pine and fir as we passed an unexpected pop-up Christmas tree stand in the South End…

… the little Christmas markets that would suddenly appear as if by magic along our route…

… the ice skaters drifting by on the Frog Pond that made Kira insist on a questionable improvised ‘skate’ on the pond in the Public Garden…

… the Christmas trees suspended upside down from the vaunted heights of the Liberty Hotel, and the glass of holiday merriment in my hand as I waited for Kira to finish her work day next door…

… the bowl of steaming pho in a now-defunct restaurant along the endless stretch of Massachusetts Avenue in Cambridge between Porter and Harvard Squares…

… the cups of hot chocolate we ordered as we ducked into a shop along Charles Street and the cold of the darkening evening crept into our bodies…

… those are the little things I remember when I think of our Holiday Strolls. Nothing extravagant or fancy, nothing exceptional or ground-breaking – just the simple camaraderie and companionship of a good friend in this precious pocket of the holiday season. We tucked into our time together as one would a favorite blanket on a blustery winter’s night. 

And that is what I almost mourned this year, before remembering the stroll we took in January of 2020, when a Holiday Stroll would have been the furthest thing from our mind having just completed one. But it made for a tradition-saving episode that we can use as our Holiday Stroll 2020. Backwards, as so much of this year has been, and fitting all the more because of it. 

In a way, this works out rather nicely. For the majority of our strolls, with the quaint and notable exception of our first, snow doesn’t usually play a big part in our holiday excursions. This year, we unknowingly made our trek through the snowy Boston Public Garden, site of so many happy times over the years, and kept our tradition intact, even if we didn’t realize it then. 

Because we were strolling unawares, we also managed to recapture the simplicity and essence of that very first winter walk, when it was just two friends making their way through a snowy day. 

The morning came with its own magic and enchantment too, like this Japanese lantern, something we don’t usually notice in the spring and summer, when blooms and buds draw focus to showier scenes. On that morning we paused and looked at each of its forest reliefs. 

Without the hustle and bustle of the typical holiday time-frame, the Garden was largely uncrowded. The sun crept quietly into the day, joining us with its brilliance. 

As cold as it was, the beauty of the day worked to warm us.

More than that, the companionship of a good friend worked its warming spell as well. 

Unwittingly, we concluded our Holiday Stroll 2020 – about eleven months earlier than we usually do – and so I close this post with the hope that next year may return us to our typical trajectory in what will be our tenth anniversary of strolling together. Here’s to that future – and here’s to that January day of the past that enabled us to have this virtual stroll in a year when almost everything was lost. 

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A Quarter of A Century Ago in Boston…

At first there was the idea: a home away from home.

A place where spring might be found in February, and in my mind that’s all I could envision.

It was November, which always felt like the darkest month of the year. Thoughts of the coming spring, even if we hadn’t even entered winter, kept me going. As did the idea of a place in Boston, away from the campus of Brandeis. Having persuaded my parents of the wisdom of purchasing a condo in the South End of Boston, where real estate was just beginning to take off, I’d wasted no time in starting the search. This song led my heart, and I remember hearing it for the first time in the music store on the second floor of the Copley Place Mall, back when such garish haunts still had a home in Copley.

IT FELT LIKE SPRING TIME
ON THIS FEBRUARY MORNING
IN THE COURTYARD BIRDS WERE SINGING YOUR PRAISE
I’M STILL RECALLING THINGS YOU SAID
TO MAKE ME FEEL ALRIGHT
I CARRIED THEM WITH ME TODAY

The fall day on which I started the hunt for our Boston condo began in rainy form. Living on campus at Brandeis at the time, in a castle from whose balcony the city of Boston appeared like some little glowing visage of Oz far in the distance, I longed to be in the middle of the city, longed to find a place there as I’d dreamed all those years ago on one of our first visits to Quincy Market. Somewhere in my head, amid the magical little bull markets and twinkling trees, beside the wavy cobblestone walkways, and the centuries of history, I felt my own history being built.

The year was 1995, and I’d taken my father’s offer to start looking for a place in Boston at face value, hopping on the commuter rail into the city, and walking into the South End to the first real estate place I saw on Tremont. Expecting some introductory small talk, some vague promise of a meeting in a week or two, I suddenly found myself walking out of the office and onto Clarendon with the handsome real estate agent, beneath a suddenly-blue sky and the late afternoon sunlight.

Perhaps it was all part of his master plan, but the first offer was a smaller place right around the block on Clarendon Street. I remember a brick wall in the kitchen area, where a single small batch of dried, almost desiccated flowers, hung in a sad sort of way. It wasn’t ideal, and there wasn’t a T stop nearby, but the notion of waking up in white sheets, when the sun poured in and illuminated every crack and crevice of brick, was rustically appealing in its simple way. The idea of sharing that small space with someone suddenly imprinted itself upon my mind, an idea of making a home, and of finding love there.

The second home we saw was deeper into the South End. Even further from any T stop, it offered the most space, but was unfortunately divided into several smaller rooms lending it a claustrophobic feel, where no light reached some of the inner-rooms. That old real-estate adage about location, location, location ran through my head, and as we walked the long way back to the real estate office, I felt a little despair that we were down to one more option.

NOW, AS I LAY ME DOWN TO SLEEP
THIS I PRAY
THAT YOU WILL HOLD ME DEAR
THOUGH I’M FAR AWAY
I’LL WHISPER YOUR NAME INTO THE SKY
AND I WILL WAKE UP HAPPY

It was dark when we visited the condo at Braddock Park. Located on the border between Copley and the South End, it was in a brick building along the Southwest Corridor Park. Steps from the orange line, and a few more steps to the green line, it was the closest to just about everything. In the night, I could locate where we were based on the twin hotels of the Marriott and Westin nearby, and the John Hancock Tower slightly beyond them. Their lights broke the blackness around us. It felt like we were on the doorstep of Boston. More than that, I somehow felt like I was home.

The condo was on the second floor, which rose even higher than a typical second story based on the fact that the first floor actually started about a dozen steps above the sidewalk. Coupled with high ceilings, we were indeed at the doorstep of Boston, and somehow looking down over it. Even without being there during the day, I could sense there would be good light. It was a floor-through unit with bay windows in the front and the back. A bit foolish to make such an investment without seeing it at both day and night, but something just felt right about it. There, in the darkness of a Boston evening, it felt right. Just me, and the city, and the night.

When November arrived, and the cold days settled in, it was time to close on the condo. My Boston dorm had taken on a decidedly dreary aspect ~ both in its suffocating communal shower, where a house centipede was lurking around every corner, and in the coldness of its painted cinder block walls, the sad little sink and mirror by the tiny window.

I WONDER WHY I FEEL SO HIGH
THOUGH I AM NOT ABOVE THE SORROW
HEAVY-HEARTED TIL YOU CALL MY NAME
AND IT SOUNDS LIKE CHURCH BELLS
OR THE WHISTLE OF A TRAIN
ON A SUMMER EVENING
I’LL RUN TO MEET YOU BAREFOOT
BARELY BREATHING

On the day we closed on it, the wind was strong and the air was chilled. It was November, and we’d turned past the point where warm and sunny days could still heat the earth. For such a transformational event, it felt oddly uneventful, and as my parents signed all the papers, and the condo became our second home, the little set of keys hardly seemed like they could open the portal to the next part of our lives.

It would be a couple of weeks before I moved in, and in those weeks I steeled myself for a life alone. Now that the deal was done, there was no reason for the real estate agent to hang around, and I was left by myself, with all the trappings of an exciting single life in Boston, but none of the happiness or excitement or hope. Gradually, by little and insubstantial bits of furniture old and new, I furnished the condo, in minimalist fashion by necessity, and sparsely by tentativeness. In those first few days, I wanted to take it all in in its most simple and basic form ~ the warm, newly-refinished hardwood floors, the bit of exposed brick wall in the bathroom, the little counter that separated our small kitchen area from the rest of the front room, the marble mantle around the fireplace from who knew how many long years ago.

While the main room had lovely recessed lighting in its ceiling, the bedroom was bereft of such luxury. A little fringed lamp was all I had to illuminate the space at night, and I slept on the thin almost-mattress of a cot we brought in until a bed could be ordered and delivered. There wasn’t a television or a stereo in the place, and I didn’t need or want for any. In that stillness and quietude, I forged a love for time spent alone. Somehow I knew it would be the singular love affair we all need to find to be ok with whatever ways our journeys wound.

AS I LAY ME DOWN TO SLEEP
THIS I PRAY
THAT YOU WILL HOLD ME DEAR
THOUGH I’M FAR AWAY
I’LL WHISPER YOUR NAME INTO THE SKY
AND I WILL WAKE UP HAPPY

The idea of sharing this space with someone, or sharing a life with someone, was the way I romanticized in those days. And especially those nights. I played this song over and over, longing for such a scene, longing for companionship, longing for the fix that would heal my heart. I wasn’t quite sure how it had been broken, there simply came a day when, upon examining it, I realized that yes, there were cracks, there were fissures even as I didn’t recall the jolts that did it.

Was it the man who scraped my face so viciously with his stubble, the first man who ever kissed me, the man who took that special moment and in his alcoholic madness in turn took my innocence? I honestly didn’t think he had broken it ~ even when we saw each other randomly a year prior to that, when he told me it just wasn’t working out before I even realized we were actually dating. I was so young and naive, I didn’t even know that.

Was it my favorite Uncle who laughed at me when I was a kid, when in a rare moment of excitement I showed him a flower arrangement I had made and he asked with a smirk if I was gay? I couldn’t have been more than eleven or twelve, and still I remember the sting of it, the way I hid in my room and cried until my Mom asked me what was wrong as I was avoiding my favorite Uncle and I just blurted it out in pain and anguish.

Was it when one of my only friends in college jokingly and derisively said he hoped I wasn’t going fag on him when I innocently pointed out the moon on our way back from dinner one night?

I don’t know. Maybe it wasn’t any single event, maybe it was the gradual erosion of our lives, the mean stuff and tough stuff of life that eats away at all of us, some more than others, some much more harshly than others, until we reach a point where our hearts are so delicate and worn that they break at the silliest and most trifling of things. A culmination of continual little heartaches resulting in a break that is, at that point, almost a tender sort of relief.

IT’S NOT TOO NEAR FOR ME
LIKE A FLOWER I NEED THE RAIN
THOUGH IT’S NOT CLEAR TO ME
EVERY SEASON HAS ITS CHANGE
AND I WILL SEE YOU
WHEN THE SUN COMES OUT AGAIN

Then, at the not-so-ripe age of twenty, in that rather lovely year of 1995 ~ a loveliness I would come to appreciate more and more as the other years went by ~ those little breaks and cracks had forced me to rebuild a stronger fortress, a defiant set of armor that would steel me against future heartbreak. I needed that whenever I descended and entered the city. Only within the brick walls and the lofty vantage point over Braddock Park did I feel safe enough to let down my guard, to be myself and to be ok all by myself. It was in that way that I shaped a new sense of home.

My adult life was forged there, for better or worse, and it prepared me for hardships and celebrations and love and loss and loneliness and betrayal and redemption and survival. All those facets of living the fullest life, when we are brave enough not to shy away from those feelings.

AS I LAY ME DOWN TO SLEEP
THIS I PRAY
THAT YOU WILL HOLD ME DEAR
THOUGH I’M FAR AWAY
I’LL WHISPER YOUR NAME INTO THE SKY
AND I WILL WAKE UP HAPPY

Home is a habit, and sometimes you have to make it up as you go.

Home is stability and safety, even when your own heart invites in all sorts of dangers.

Home is a quiet place of refuge when the wind whirls in wicked ferocity, when the rest of the world deserts you, when you have to face the demons all by yourself.

Home doesn’t have to be a physical space bound by wood and clay and windows, but when that place forms the background and base for those moments when you realize what home is, it can’t help but take on some of that history, to become imbued with some of that spiritual matter that we shed as we grow.

There, in that Boston wilderness of a heart tamed by a solitude and stillness, protected from another brutal winter by centuries of brick and mortar, buffeted by the history of a city defined by its singularly American story, of revolution and rebellion, of defiance and devastation, I made a home a quarter of a century ago.

I WONDER WHY
WHEN THE SUN COMES OUT AGAIN
I WILL WAKE UP HAPPY

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Falling A Quarter of a Century Ago

Exactly 25 years ago, I took this selfie in my Brandeis dorm room. In the first days of November 1995 we were awaiting the closing on our new Boston condo, and until then I lived on campus and commuted to my job at Structure. The better I did there, the more hours they gave me, until I was working 35 hours a week while attending school full time. If I had class in the morning, then a closing shift at the store, I would get back to Brandeis on the 10 PM commuter train from North Station, arriving at my room around 10:40 or so. This picture was taken right about then, as I summoned the energy reserve of Youth and fought with the precarious emotional state of the same. 

Occupying a single corner room in the upper turret of Usen Castle, I was largely left alone. With only a few more semesters of college to go, my heart had already flown from Brandeis to Boston, and supremely uninterested in the student body around me, my focus was on my work, and on the excitement I found in Boston rather than on campus at Cholmondeley’s, the campus coffee shop a few floors below my room. On Saturday nights, when I’d be holed up finishing homework after working all day, I’d listen to the other people in my class laughing and screaming with the delight of college-age enthusiasm, and want no part of it. At the time I felt slightly ashamed of it – I knew it was odd to prefer solitude, and I knew others would think me strange for it, yet I knew that I genuinely preferred to be by myself. I didn’t begrudge them their fun, nor was any part of me envious of the fun they were having. I was facing my differences, my social anxiety, and I was all right with it. 

Madonna sang ‘You’ll See’ back when they played her on the radio, and I took it on as my saddest anthem. If I hadn’t been directly wronged by a lover it was only because I didn’t have a lover. Which was sadder? Being hurt from once being loved or not being hurt because you were never loved? My heart was intent on ravaging itself to find out. On the cusp of moving into Boston, I wanted to feel something. I wanted to feel everything. Even if it was heartbreak. Even if it was the heart breaking from happiness. 

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