Category Archives: Boston

How Do You Get By?

How perilous the perch when you have to rely on another, and how precarious to be the one on whom reliance is placed. There is little way to win in this life, little chance we each have of making it through unscathed. Those are the thoughts that went through my head as I studied this bit of street art in Boston. A whimsical thing, it was actually impressive of size and stature, climbing high onto the exterior of a building near Back Bay. Strolling deeper into the night, I held hands with the moon, who was kind enough to reach down and extend her light for the way home.

That walk will be much chillier now, and the only way I’ve found of making it through these dismal winter months is to hunker down with a few select friends, make some comfort food (a beef stew is a fine choice), and find a few candles. Then, laughter will light the night, love will warm the way, and friendship will see us through to the next day. Soon, it will be spring again. It doesn’t feel like it, but wait.

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Unexpected Inspiration

I love it when art takes me by surprise, seizing upon an unlikely moment or an unexpected place, such as this graffiti-ridden spot at the end of Newbury Street. In the little space between what used to be Best Buy (and many years ago Tower Records) and one of the many Starbucks stores, there is an expanse that has always been the repository of graffiti and tag-lines. On this day, however, it holds a heart, a heart in a gilded frame. I pause in front of it, while Kira gamely waits out my fascination.

I snap a few photos, and in them it almost looks like a work of photoshop. But there is no retouching here, no magical computer strokes or filters to lend it anything more. What you see is the way it really was. Maybe the light of the day helped, maybe the worn surface lent it some enchantment – whatever the case, I am enamored of this shot. It reminds me that art can be found when it’s least expected. Love too.

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The Holiday Stroll 2014

We almost didn’t make it this year. After missing out on a planned stroll earlier in the month, it looked like Kira and I might not get our schedules together to do our annual Holiday Stroll/Shopping Extravaganza, but this past weekend we got our shit in sync and made it happen.

We began by going a different route – down Columbus Avenue instead of heading straight to Charles Street and Beacon Hill. The day dawned brilliantly, but the blue sky soon gave way to clouds. As long as it didn’t rain we’d be fine. A wind began to pick up as we made our way down Columbus, stopping for a quick bite at Cafe Madeleine.

A few steps down from the cafe stands the Luke Adams Gifting Co. It was there that I found the perfect gift for Andy, which started off our last-minute shopping excursion on the right foot (or fin, to give a small hint as to what was procured). This locally-owned company is a neat addition to the South End, offering unique items you don’t see anywhere else, all with threads of wit and whimsy running through them.

We rounded the corner onto Mass Ave., where we picked up our pace in the face of a cold wind. A decent pho restaurant -Pho Basil – stands midway to where we were headed, but it was a tad too early to partake of the hearty broth (that was yet to come.) We’d only just begun, and passed by with a slight twinge of regret – it was so cold that a bowl of pho would have been wonderful, no matter how early. Still, we trudged onward, to Newbury Street, where Newbury Comics afforded Kira the only gift left on her list – a CD for her youngest daughter. Two down and only a few to go, and the day was still young.

 

Previous holiday strolls with Kira have always brightened my heart, as she is one of my dearest friends. Last year’s was so enjoyable that I turned it into a two-part post (Part 1 and Part 2.) Far more than the shopping and the city, it’s the time spent with an old, comfortable friend that I treasure most about these mini-adventures. It’s been much too long since I’ve seen her, so this was a nice mini-reunion of sorts, and I made her promise to do it again next month, when winter will surely fan the flames of loneliness. On this day, we were all smiles and holiday excitement, and as we browsed along Newbury and Boylston, it finally started to feel like Christmas. A quick stop at Crate & Barrel completed what I needed for Andy, while it dawned on us that this was the busiest shopping day of the year.

We mostly managed to avoid that, vowing to not even go into any place that had a line twenty people deep. (No place was that crowded, thankfully.) I looked in Marc Jacobs, hoping to find something odd for Suzie, but no such luck. Cutting back over to Boylston, we headed up past the Boston Public Garden and toyed with the idea of lunching at The Four Seasons. Since Chinatown was just a few blocks away however, where our favorite pho place was, we forged on, skirting the edge of Downtown Crossing and finding a table in the crowded restaurant.

Nothing warms the heart and soul better than a bowl pho. I’d introduced Kira to it last year, at this very place, and we dug into the spicy broth gratefully. It was the perfect midday respite from a rather bustling bit of shopping. I honestly didn’t realize how much there was left to do, boldly and rather inaccurately boasting myself mostly done a few weeks ago. Now we sat in Pho Pasteur and rested our weary feet, laughing over old memories, and pausing to make this new one.

Bracing ourselves for the cold with one final flourish of tea, we headed back out, into the maelstrom of Downtown Crossing and that beacon of consumerism, Macy’s. I was looking for myself, but remembering a certain gift I already bought the night before (a scent I’ll describe a bit later), I listened to Kira’s advice and gave up an expensive coat. Instead, as I made her promise shortly after we began the day, she was to pick out something for herself. On a day when we were buying things for other people, I said we should do something for ourselves. (There was one Christmas when her family was so caught up in what they wanted and what they were getting that no one – not husband or children – had bothered to get Kira a gift. My heart always hurts for her when I think of that.) This year I helped her pick out a bracelet for herself, and once that was found we walked through Downtown Crossing a little happier. If you can’t take care of yourself, how can you take care of another?

Somehow we ended up in Fanueil Hall, where I did finally find something silly for Suzie, and where we paused for a few obligatory cookies from the Boston Chipyard while looking at that enormous Christmas tree they’ve erected there. Still full from the pho, we carried on, walking away from the crowds to the Liberty Hotel – another traditional stop for us. The Christmas trees there hung upside-down from the vaulted ceiling, and we slumped into two high-backed chairs to get a third wind for the final stretch of the day. The sun went down as we watched a group assemble for a wedding. Ladies in sparkling evening dresses and rotund men in tuxedoes milled about the bar area, while other travelers waited for their room to be ready. There’s no better sport than people-watching with a close friend.

When we returned outside, it was dark, but there were holiday lights around every corner, and the shop windows of Charles Street were decorated with holiday gusto. This was the cozy moment that I sought every year, this was the time when the magic of Christmas made itself felt and known. We stopped in a paper store, mulling over cards and stationery, then walked down into a Tibetan store, where Kira once found her warmest pair of gloves. At this point we were merely browsing, extending our time with each other, delaying the end of the day. A hot chocolate at Starbucks would be our final bit of sustenance.

As we walked back toward Copley, the Public Garden on our left, we looked into the magnificent brownstones along the way. Christmas trees blinked and sparkled from some of the windows, while garlands and wreaths adorned many of the doors. Though the night was young, it was time for Kira to catch her train, and us to end this holiday stroll. We hugged by Back Bay Station, and I said goodbye to a friend. We headed back to our families, but I realized that this may just be my happiest Christmas memory.

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I Could Eat Boston Up

Right round the corner from our condo, and down Columbus Avenue a couple of blocks, stands a corner shop that has made getting up in the morning a worthy endeavor. Cafe Madeleine opened a few months ago and has been supplying the area with some delicious fare that is as pretty to look at as it is to eat. I’m constantly on the lookout for new stores and eating establishments along Columbus Ave. Some stay, some go, but there are a few standards that are good enough to withstand the test of time (or at least the three decades since we’ve had the condo.) This looks like it could be one of them.

This is a bright bauble of a newcomer, whose freshly-baked wares call out to anyone looking to begin the morning with comfort and sweetness. Viennoiserie and pastries and cookies beckon to the sugar-starved. There are a few savory options as well, but if I’m going to indulge it’s going to be on the sweet side of things. Like with the colorful macarons pictured here.

Light and inwardly creamy, with a delicately crisp outside shell, they are a beautiful sight to behold, even if they don’t last long. I held out as long as I could to capture a few photos before scarfing a few down. A bag of about ten will set you back a pretty penny, but it will be worth it.

On that day of decadence I also succumbed to an almond croissant and a freshly-squeezed orange juice (ok, and a cookie chaser because I had to take more than macarons away). While neither is especially cheap, all of it is worth it. (Breakfast for one with that take-away bag of macarons cost about $36.) I know, I know – but again, worth every penny once in a while.

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Hurricanes of Octobers Past

I had to be there at 7 AM on a Sunday morning, not my idea of a weekend well-spent. It was inventory at Structure, that loathsome time of the year when stock had to be taken, merchandise counted, and every last belt and pair of socks entered into the computer system. On this particular Sunday, I was still working at the first Structure I ever worked at: the Faneuil Hall location (now an offensive Abercrombie & Fitch).

It was October 1996, and Hurricane Lili was raging when I woke up. I was about to have my heart broken, or so I thought. That’s what it felt like, anyway. Even if it had all happened before. Even if it would all happen again.

I walked out to the kitchen and looked outside at the gray world. The rain was pouring down, and the wind was raging. Walking the few short blocks to the T station would have me soaked before I even started the long day. I thumbed through the phone book and called a cab. In all my years in Boston, it was one of the first times I used a taxi to get around, but it was absolutely worth every penny. I ducked into the yellow car and we sped off through the volatile weather.

Like waiting for a furniture delivery or in the extra hour of Daylight Savings, inventory was one of those bracketed pockets of time which feel removed from the rest of the world. A few other sleepy workers had already arrived, and soon we set to work. It was good to occupy the mind, and the hands. So much of survival depends on the simple task of keeping busy, of keeping in motion. Stillness and quiet allow the heart to go turbulent. I kept myself moving, faking a laugh with my co-workers, and eventually, years later, the laughter became real, until I could no longer tell what hurt so much. That’s the only way to trick the heart.

October has always been the time for such tricks.

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The Wedding Cake Bush

I didn’t get around to posting these photos back in May when they were taken, but they are a welcome reminder of the freshness of the season, one that still lingers in these early days of summer. This is the double-file viburnum, commonly referred to as the wedding cake bush. It’s more than fitting, as there is a photo of Andy and I on our wedding day taken in this very spot, with this very bush in the background, in full bloom.

It doesn’t get its name from our ceremony, but rather the horizontal wedding cake layer-like countenance of a specimen in flower. Despite its elegant and delicate appearance, this is a very hardy shrub, that withstands drastic pruning and less-than-ideal conditions. It also has more than one way to show off – not only on its branches, but on the mosaic-like stone tiles of the Boston Public Garden.

Consider it a double-file doing double-duty with its load of beauty, throwing off a second showing for those of us closer to the ground. A home-grown toss of confetti, if you will.

No matter how you look at it, the viburnum is a gorgeous landscape addition.

Another May, another day

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Dappled Sunlight in Boston

Cities often suffer in the summer. Once that heat gets into the concrete and the subways, it’s there until October. Still, there are spaces and moments of reprieve, such as in the dappled shade afforded by street trees, or the increasingly-landscaped stretches of the Southwest Corridor Park, where these photos were taken.

Here, some snowdrop anemones and blue flags find comfort beneath the filtered sunlight before the heat becomes unbearable.

At this early stage of the season, everything is still fresh, everything is still cool. The greens are softer, the edges pristine, and the blossoms unripped by hot winds.

It’s the secret side of Boston, unknown to tourists, and often unnoticed by locals, and I hold it more dear because of that.

The lips of an iris are sealed, the petals of an anemone silent.

Sometimes summer doesn’t shout – sometimes it whispers.

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Boston Street Views, Game in Sight

There haven’t been as many Boston trips of late, but a few are coming up, with a possible game at Fenway in the works with a certain webmaster. I haven’t been to a baseball game since 1993, when the Red Sox were down by 11 in the 7th inning and I left to go shopping on Newbury Street. It was the best decision – and they did not make any sort of miraculous comeback.

This summer, guided by my brother and his methods of procuring tickets, we may check out a game, as long as it’s not against the Yankees. Cooler heads must prevail.

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Almost Summer in the Boston Public Garden

Just because I’m not there in person doesn’t mean I’m not there in spirit.

Happy Pride, Boston.

You are beautiful.

Now and always.

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Slanting Sunlight, Afternoon Delight

When Boston beckons, I usually heed the call. In this instance, and for this upcoming weekend, I’m heading into town to pick up a pair of shoes from John Fluevog (which is more substantial than the usual flimsy excuses concocted for making the trip.) These are no ordinary shoes, however, and they will get their own showcasing post a little later.

For now, I’m just looking forward to being in the city where this kind of magical afternoon light happens right in my backyard. I’m also joyfully anticipating a Japanese dinner at Douzo or O Ya. Oh, and the baked goodness at the South End Buttery. And the brownies at the SoWa Market. And the pho at Pho Basil. And the cards at Luke Adams Gifting Co. And the plants at Niche. And the salts at Olives & Grace. And, perhaps most importantly, the shoes waiting for me at John Fluevog. (They’re that good.)

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The Art of Debris: Take Two

This is a companion piece to a previous post that espoused the hidden objets d’art that can be found on the street. I wasn’t planning on following up with a similar post so soon, but when you see a razor entwined in a chain-link fence, you stop and take notice. Or, in this case, you take a photograph.

The stories one could spin about this have no limit. The first one my mind entertained was a girl bringing this razor to school for a friend who was going to shave her legs for the first time, and trying to hide that fact from her mother. Strange that that should be the first possibility that comes to mind, over a boy who might be shaving his face for the first time, but I suppose relating to girls has always been my province.

Some cheap purses belong on the street. I’m hoping that the person to whom this once belonged suddenly came to his or her senses, threw it down in a fit of sudden fashion-sense, and never looked back. More people with bad accessories should be so bold.

Finally, this dirty yet shiny lollipop spoke to me in a David Lynchian whisper. It wasn’t quite a severed ear, or the blue-tinged body of Laura Palmer, but it carried its own eerie mysteries.

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Cheerio

The main thing I’ve always wondered about the raising of children is this: what’s with all the fucking Cheerios?

Having had more experience with my niece and nephew in recent years, however, along with the explanations of helpful friends who are now parents themselves, it seems that Cheerios are an ideal snack: not too heavy on sugar, not too messy (though kids will find a way to pulverize anything and make a disaster area), and convenient enough to stuff into any plastic baggie. (Yes, I just wrote the word ‘baggie’ for perhaps the first time in my life.)

Personally, though, I like the Cheerios were utilized in these home-made bird-feeders, seen around the corner from my place in Boston. Ingeniously constructed by some geometrically-shaped pipe cleaners, this looks to be the work of the day-care on Columbus Avenue.

I have no idea if the birds actually like Cheerios, or if such processed food is all that healthy for them, but the sentiment is pure, and the design is simple yet effective.

I’d employ the technique and give these a whirl in my own backyard, but it’s more than likely that the squirrels would get to them first, then go around wearing pipe-cleaner necklaces and mocking me from afar. I get enough abuse without giving them additional cause for ridicule.

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Olives & Grace: Or, A Little Glimpse of Heaven on Pembroke

The sign on Tremont alerts passers-by to something special down Pembroke Street. A couple doors down, the windows of the store-front offer tantalizing glimpses of overflowing gift baskets in various states of filling, and all sorts of mouth-watering objects. This is the world of Olives & Grace {A Curtsy to the Makers} ~  a small artisan shop that sells a variety of goods, from the culinary to the pretty, and everything in between. The first thing that catches my eyes is a tall, colorful stack of cooking salts – everything from an elusive Fennel Thyme Salt (for which I’d been searching over the past several months) to an Aleppo Chile Salt. A bottle of Honey Chamomile Bitters is ripe for winter cocktailing, and containers of tea and cocoa stand ready to banish what remains of the frigid season.

Not limited to the savory, there are an equal number of scintillating sweets, including a stack of flavored sugars to rival the stack of salts. Chocolates of all sorts, honey, and several interesting syrups – along with canisters of cocoa – mean that  there is something for every sweet tooth as well.

There are non-edibles that are meant to be worn and seen, such as some intricate metallic jewelry for the ladies or a few softly-hued pocket squares for the gentlemen. Everything is carefully crafted with pristine care, the time and effort apparent in each stitch of fabric, every curve of metal.

The emphasis is on what is local, ensuring a continually rotating stock of specialty items, worthy of frequent stops and regular browsing. While the unique stock alone is worth the stop, it’s the customer service that stands above and beyond any mainstream chain, and Olives & Grace boasts some of the friendliest and most helpful staff in the South End (which is saying something substantial.) I only wanted one of the salt blends (a chicken recipe has been calling for fennel salt for a while now), so the woman helping me looked up the supplier online, and saw that it was available in a fennel version. She wrote the name on a card, in case I wanted to order it on my own. That’s what keeps a business in good standing, and the customers coming back for more.

Olives & Grace is right off Tremont, at 81 Pembroke Street. 

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Carving a Niche in the South End

The little gift shops along Tremont Street have always charmed me, with their friendly owners, local focus, and unique selections. This is Niche – a captivating space that is the perfect antidote for these last stubborn days of winter. I’d been passing this for a while, always putting off stepping inside for one reason or another, but having been beat down by a chilly wind recently, I ducked into the shop and felt not only instantly warmer, but calmer as well.

Tiny plantings of baby’s tears and slow-growing succulents peeked out of fanciful ceramic planters. Riotously-colored bracts of bromeliads sprayed outward in radial formation, star-bursts of red and yellow surrounding the spot where the real, unassuming flower would appear. The beautifully-gnarled forms of tillandsia sat perched above beds of stones and water – the powerful collusion of elements allowing for life and loveliness.

In a city like Boston, where space is of the essence and apartments and condos can be on the small side, this is a clever way of managing to have a garden in the tiniest of rooms. Hanging in one of the whimsical ceramic tear-drops, or set upon a windowsill in a simple planter, there is likely room for some of these beauties in everyone’s place.

This would have been one of my favorite stores as a kid. The plants, the design, the child-like scale of it all – I would have been enthralled by every item. As it was, I remained fascinated, poring over the combinations of plants, examining the curves of the vases, studying the lime green hues of the mosses. A playground for plant-lovers and design-aficionados alike.

Gorgeousness filled every corner and crevice here, from the open-palmed variations of the prayer plant (which gets its name from the habit of folding up its leaves at night, as if in prayer) to the spiny architectural spikes of a variegated haworthia, waiting to send up a towering flower spike when conditions are right.

Hope is too often such a small thing, so easily looked over or forgotten. These little treasures remind me of that. They remind me to look. To pause. To remember. In the smallest of stuff, there may be found an infinite universe.

Niche is located at 619 Tremont Street in the South End of Boston. 

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It Will Come

This past weekend in Boston began the slow march to spring. It’s going to take some time – there is still so much snow – but as these photos attest, hope is in the air, and poking through the ground. There’s a familiar thrill when the first daffodils and tulips begin tentatively telescoping from the earth, scoping out whether it’s really safe to fully rise. These are dangerous times, and they sense that. There is still the likely possibility that a snowstorm with dump a foot of crushing ice crystals on top of them, leaving tattered tips, if not killing them outright.

Yet this year I can’t blame the tender shoots for being so ready to emerge. It’s been a difficult winter, and many of us are similarly anxious to let it go. Even with whispers of another impending storm on the horizon, I still wouldn’t draw back and hesitate now.

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