Category Archives: Boston

Building Beauty

A boy I once liked very much said this was one of his favorite buildings in Boston. It was after our first and only date, and he had parked right in front. There was no good-night kiss, and no interest from his end. Of course I fell in love with him right on the spot.

Now I only find it pretty in certain light.

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Building Beauty

A boy I once liked very much said this was one of his favorite buildings in Boston. It was after our first and only date, and he had parked right in front. There was no good-night kiss, and no interest from his part. Of course I fell in love with him right on the spot.

Now I only find it pretty in certain light. And hindsight.

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More Boston Bloomers

Small things can make quite an impact when placed, presented, and lit correctly. All conspired to show off this trio of Narcissus. Not the common trumpet variety, these are miniature species, most likely ‘Tete-a-Tete’, but their tiny stature doesn’t stop them from putting on a spectacular show, especially for those who take the time and effort to talk to them on their level.

I have to admit, their size has always put me off (and I am not a size queen, I swear) but there is something to be said for the little things that bloom at such an early time of the year. Especially when they are in such a cheerful shade of yellow. Against a dull brick façade, and accented by blue muscari, they glow in the afternoon sunlight, tiny fireworks of exploding petals and ruffled perianths.

But spring is not limited to the blazing hue of the sun – there are softer shades, cooler colors, and they temper the bold jonquil with their own gracious beauty.

In many a collection there is an interloper. This one should be obvious, but no less whimsical.

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Boston Bloomers

Spring was busting out all over Boston the last time I was in town, so this day is going to celebrate that glorious arrival with a couple of floral posts. It’s one of my favorite times to be in the city, made more-so by the fleeting aspect of such beauty. If you blink, you could miss it – and I don’t want to miss a thing.

Nestled along most blocks are these pockets of beauty. A nook of a garden, even in the most concrete-bound of places, can make a magnificent difference. These blooms were all in the vicinity of South Station, a location I hadn’t really frequented until the last two years or so, but as the city extends its charms to the Seaport section, it’s a nifty linking place.

While none of the blooms depicted here are gigantic or earth-shattering on their own, taken together and en masse, they make quite the statement of color and beauty. They demand a closer inspection, a pause in the rush of where we’re headed – and to command such power in such a place is impressive.

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Lunch Trade

In the middle of the day, on the edge of entering the Seaport, a few restaurants and hotels line the little harbor area, and Kira and I slip into Trade for a little lunch. It’s one of those pockets of time that I will later come to treasure, the unplanned but perfectly-landed respite that acts as its own oasis and siesta in one. A glass of rosé and an octopus salad – no better way to begin.

With a zesty citrus dressing and cacophony of fresh herbs and fennel, the salad was a bright and brilliant blend of flavor and texture.

Trade is better known for its flatbreads, so we ordered two to share. First up was this Prosciutto with peppers and pickled onions. Those onions, and their briny preparation, made this one for me, though it was a close-call with the bacon and artichoke concoction below. With its generous helping of fresh herbs, it held its own with the pungent pickled perfection of its table mate. This was a delicious battle I didn’t mind fighting in the least.

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A Ritual of Rings

It’s our wedding anniversary, so Andy and I will be celebrating in Boston with one of our simplest rituals: the cleaning of the rings, in which we stop by Shreve, Crump & Low’s and hand over our wedding rings for their yearly steam-clean. There will be other rituals as well, and a few fine dinners, but I’ll save those for another day. For now, our annual look back at what happened six years ago:

Part 1: The Arrival & Accommodations

Part 2: The Rehearsal Dinner

Part 3: The Last Call of a Bachelor

Part 4: The Dawn of the Wedding Day

Part 5: The Ceremony

Part 6: The Perfect Day in the Park

Part 7: The Wedding Lunch

Part 8: The Wedding Dinner

Bonus Post: The Residual Glow of Marriage

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Pink Skies Over Boston

Every once in a while the sky does something that transforms what you think you know into something other-worldly and wonderful. Such was the afternoon captured here. The bulk of the day had been dreary and gray, with a steady fall of rain for much of the morning. Only in the afternoon did the sky clear slightly, and just enough for the falling sun to light things up in this glorious pink hue, while the former John Hancock Tower shone a brilliant blue against the rosy backdrop.

Even after viewing this vista for two decades, I’m still amazed by its capacity to surprise and impress. The most jaded among us have not seen anywhere near to everything, no matter how far we may or may not have traveled. There is always something new under the sun.

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Buttery Brilliance

When Sunday dawns with just-below-freezing temperatures, but the sun is shining strongly, the relatively short trek to the South End Buttery is a worthwhile endeavor – mostly because I know what’s at the end. In this case, a delicious almond creme croissant (and a chocolate orange scone for the ride home). Such ended this past weekend in Boston, a jaunt that was as much about business (securing a contractor for the bathroom renovation) as it was about pleasure (perusing bars for possible party locations with JoAnn).

While the nearby Cafe Madeleine remains closed for unexpected repairs, the Buttery provides a perfect pastry fix on Sunday mornings. As a treat for Andy, I also pick up a small package of Sea Salt chocolate chip cookies, and I’m proud to say that the majority of them made it home intact. (I’m less proud to say that they didn’t last very long on the kitchen counter.)

On this Tuesday morning, I remember that Sunday morning – still better than a Monday, but still a little sad.

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The Disappearing Men of Boston

In fifth and sixth grades, one of my favorite moments of class was when we got to go to the library and read. There was a corner where the books on paranormal activity were kept, and I’d occasionally pick up a compilation on ghost hauntings and read a bit of it – only a bit, for I was soon too scared to turn the pages. Like the Loch Ness monster or the Abominable snowman, those ghost stories carried an unsolved mystery to them, the notion of something being off. They originated somewhere, there had to be something to them, but the veracity of it, the existence of such hidden evils, was always suspect. It was the only thing that kept me from going completely sleepless.

Black and white photographs of haunted staircases, of blanks walls covered in faded Victorian wallpaper, and doors slightly ajar, would come back to my mind at night, and I spent many hours frightened of every sound that emanates from a sleeping house. It wasn’t the existence of ghosts or monsters that horrified me, it wasn’t the damage they might do – it was the mystery of it. The absence of knowledge or proof was what bothered me, and that worked both ways. If it couldn’t be proven that they existed, how could it be proven that they didn’t exist? That same fear came to me the other day as I looked up at a poster of young man who was missing in Boston – Zachary Marr. On the platform of the Downtown Crossing Red Line, hordes of people rushed past his smiling image. He watched over all of them, as blind to their worries and concerns as they were to his, but I saw it all.

It had a title straight from clickbait hell: “Boston’s Mysterious Vanishing Men.” Of course I fell for it, then went down into a dark hole of conspiracy theories and paranoid speculation. For a few years, and in similar fashion, men in Boston were reported missing, then found dead a while later in a body of water – usually the Charles River or the harbor. In each instance, the men had gone off on their own, usually late at night, and often after a few drinks at a bar. They were all considered accidents, moments of drunken stumbling that resulted in unfortunate circumstances when a city has such easy access to water.

Still, something bothered me about these stories. Some vague underlying sense of dread and danger, some small seed of ‘What if?’ coupled with an inability to completely dismiss the connections made between cases. I don’t know the statistics, I don’t know how often such accidents happen. At the same time I find it hard to believe that such happenings are the work of some mastermind serial killer. As always, it’s the not knowing for certain that bothers me most. That’s what creeps into my head sometimes.

Boston’s lost boys, gone mysteriously missing then found in the water days or weeks later, haunt the most morbid corners of the mind, residing there partly resigned, partly pleading for help, partly at peace— or so we want to believe. It’s a haunting that spooks through its missing pieces, just like those ghost stories spun such fear through their very mystery.

I walk the streets and notice things differently now. The marks of men. The remnants of the lost. A single sock. A weathered Brooks Brothers collar point. A muddy comb missing several of its teeth. Ghostly items. Faded with weather and time and neglect. The forgotten. An eerie uneasiness settles over some nights now, and only when I lock the two formidable entry doors behind me do I feel a sense of relief.

UPDATE: Sadly, Zachary Marr’s body was just found in the Charles River.

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Winter’s Lavender Light

When the snowstorm moved off at last, and the afternoon sun lit up the high-rise hotels, the scene was magnificent to behold. It was the sort of light most of us don’t get to see very much – the strange immediate appearance of the sun after a day of steady snowfall. Coupled with the rapid approach of dusk, the snow and ice took on layers of lavender – as pink and purple fought for dominance, and the fiery orb of salmon descended in the West.

It doesn’t often happen that the snow will alight so prettily on the branches and remain there. Usually it’s as fickle as the fluttering birds, especially when the wind begins. On this day, the wetness of the snow and the relative lack of wind allowed the beauty to last.

Looking like a cotton candy world, in the lightest shades of pink and blue, the effect is exquisite. It lasts only moments, as if such magnificence was not long for this universe. Soon, the light would depart, and dusk would take its place. An almost imperceptible shift if you watch as it happens, but dramatically obvious if you take your eyes away from it for any length of time.

The turn of the evening screw was at hand.

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The Best Place To Weather A Snowstorm

A fortress of red brick, a floor of warm hardwood, and a couch emboldened by the coziest blanket in the world: there is no better place to ride out a winter snowstorm than our Boston pied-à-terre. I’ve written of many magical nights here, safely ensconced behind its thick walls, buffered between the first and third floors, and it still thrills me to be in such a place when a storm strikes.

From the relatively safe vantage point overlooking the street, one can vaguely make out the towering Marriott and Westin hotels, along with the building formerly known as the John Hancock – though the latter almost disappears from snowy view on this afternoon. Somehow I’ve made it to the corner market for provisions, and soon dinner will be roasting away. There is wine as well, and a good book or two.

Bread and cheese, green apples and ginger tea. Something to hold until the main meal. A bluesy jazz standard plays on the stereo. It is a cozy scene.

Watching the world outside turn white, while the inside glows in amber shades offset by the celery green walls, is one of life’s contrasting pleasures. I pull the curtains open a bit more and strain to look down the rest of the street.

The snowfall lasts most of the day, but just before the light turns, the skies clear.

It is a majestic moment, rife with beauty, made more dear by its fleeting and ephemeral nature. Such splendor cannot last.

Grabbing a camera, I rush downstairs, without even a coat. I don’t intend to go beyond the steps of the brownstone, but the scene is so wondrous I suddenly find myself walking into Southwest Corridor Park, seeking the falling sun, and thrilling at the way it lights the treetops and buildings.

Clumped in the branches of the trees, and moist enough to tenaciously hang onto their perches in spite of the breeze, the snow looks like fluffy wads of cotton.

There are others out in the surreal air, camera phones lifted, each of us trying to capture the quicksilver moment, to freeze the beauty for some future end-of-summer day when the heat and humidity are once again unbearable. We yearn for what we have not at hand.

The onset of evening. The deepening of the sky. The glow of the snow.

A home away from home, and the glorious end of a day.

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In Stillness, Out of Shadow

It begins and ends in stillness. With the gentle closing of the door behind me, the hushed sanctuary of the Boston condo immediately inspires a tranquility that I’ve only found here. In the mid-afternoon sunlight, streaming through the bedroom and over the hardwood floors, I let out a deep breath.

It is one of my favorite moments, when everything is pristine and bright. The possibilities of an afternoon unfurl in the back of my head. I set my bags down and survey any negligent messes left by my brother. Having witnessed the slow, and now rapid, decline of my parents’ house during his time there, I am adamant that similar destruction not occur here. Thankfully nothing is too bad, aside from a messy floor that he’s never vacuumed a day in his life. No matter, a proper spring cleaning is around the corner.

I walk into the bathroom, badly in need of a renovation, and make a few mental notes. A cracked tile trips me up at the threshold, so I gently shuffle it back into place. Pulling open the curtains a bit, I allow light to fill the space. It’s rare that the window is open, and the effect is refreshing. Something to consider for the future.

Backing out into the bedroom, I wearily eye the need for another coat of paint. It’s only white, but the closet and storage doors have never been painted, the walls are marred by scrapes and nail holes, and the trim is in need of updating. That’s in the future, though, and my ambition will only serve a bathroom project for now.

Here, I pause. Through the window blinds, bright bands of sun rays spill over the floor and bed. Sunlight, when this strong, is much welcomed in the winter, and it’s a luxury to be in this room, at this hour, when a long weekend is in its infancy.

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Bravo, Bravo

One doesn’t think of fine dining in destinations established with other priorities in mind, particularly museums, but Bravo at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston has been serving culinary excellence for a number of years. Ensconced in a corner oasis of the second floor, it functions as a jewel of elevated dining, a respite in the midst of all the art and beauty for those moments when you may want more than cafeteria trays and crowds. A comfy bar, and refined yet cozy banquettes in the seating area, provide rest for feet tired of standing. It’s a gorgeous space befitting a museum, and the food itself is its own work of art.

On my last visit, timed just as it opened on a busy Saturday afternoon in the aftermath of a snowstorm, the tomato bisque with a side of grilled cheese goodness was the only way to go. Creamy yet light, and topped with a decadent drizzle of basil oil, it arrived looking like some gorgeously-rendered abstract painting, all fanciful swirls and tiny bubbles bursting with flavor. The basil oil was the magical part of the bowl, lending a tangy note of elegance that makes it into something more than just a comfort food. The grilled cheese triangles are sharp enough to get noticed, made delicate by proportion and size. Despite such diminutive stature, they pack a punch of their own (but a couple more would not have been unappreciated).

For the main lunch dish on such a snowy day, I kept with the tried and comfortable, choosing an ample omelet that filled half a plate, accompanied by home fries and a toasted English muffin. Filled with the freshness of tomatoes and spinach, and exquisitely offset by the rich threads of cheese (to continue the comfort-food theme) the omelet was a balanced work of unpretentious brilliance.

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Night & Day, Winter-Style

It’s a song that features prominently in ‘Grey Gardens‘ but before that it was, and remains, a Cole Porter standard. Such a classic is in vogue for all seasons – as effervescent in summer as it is cozy and comforting in the winter. This is ‘Night and Day’ – illustrated by two photos from the vantage point of the Boston condo.

LIKE THE BEAT BEAT BEAT OF THE TOM-TOM WHEN THE JUNGLE SHADOWS FALL

LIKE THE TICK TICK TOCK OF THE STATELY CLOCK AS IT STANDS AGAINST THE WALL

LIKE THE DRIP DRIP DRIP OF THE RAINDROPS WHEN THE SUMMER SHOWER IS THROUGH

SO A VOICE WITHIN ME KEEPS REPEATING YOU, YOU, YOU

Aside from the ‘Grey Gardens’ soft spot I have, I also love this song for the brilliant multi-level meanings in the lyrics. The line between night and day is a tricky one – what a difference a day makes, indeed. Things somehow feel safer when the sun comes up, and at that time I think back on the darkness and sometimes I shudder.

NIGHT AND DAY, YOU ARE THE ONE, ONLY YOU BENEATH THE MOON OR UNDER THE SUN

WHETHER NEAR TO ME, OR FAR, IT’S NO MATTER DARLING WHERE YOU ARE, I THINK OF YOU

For many reasons, I feel safe in the condo, night and day, winter and summer, year after year. This song plays on the stereo in the morning or the evening, as a pot of tea starts whistling on the stove. A candle glows in front of the window. A book waits on the sofa, next to a soft blanket, and the world can be kept at bay for the duration of a night.

DAY AND NIGHT, NIGHT AND DAY, WHY IS IT SO THAT THIS LONGING FOR YOU FOLLOWS WHEREVER I GO

IN THE ROARING TRAFFIC’S BOOM, IN THE SILENCE OF MY LONELY ROOM I THINK OF YOU

DAY AND NIGHT, NIGHT AND DAY, UNDER THE HIDE OF ME

THERE’S AN OH SUCH A HUNGRY YEARNING BURNING INSIDE OF ME, AND THIS TORMENT WON’T BE THROUGH

UNTIL YOU LET ME SPEND MY LIFE MAKING LOVE TO YOU

DAY AND NIGHT, NIGHT AND DAY.

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A Banging Brunch at Boston Chops

Boston Chops is one of my favorite restaurants in that fine city, but until a few weekends ago, I’d never tried them for brunch. Having passed it on Sunday mornings many times, I always filed it away as something I’d get around to doing, but never did. I finally broke such an egregious habit and came away with a new favorite brunch spot.

The fun and funky music in the background (everything from current radio fare to 90’s classics) had a few servers discreetly shaking their groove thangs, and whenever I see employees having fun at their jobs it makes the dining experience ten times better. The seriously competent and seriously fun staff make this brunch experience a memorably enjoyable one, from the greeting host to the team of servers who never let the glasses of water dip below half-full. But who needs water with all the Bloody Mary selections on the menu? The biggest dilemma of the morning was trying to whittle down the choices to one, but I decided on the Pickled Mary – with pickled asparagus, green beans, frog balls and cornichons – with a promise to myself to return to try the others another day. (The Prime Raw Bloody and its oyster and jumbo cocktail shrimp sounded especially tantalizing.)

A sweet surprise arrived in the form of this insanely good dish of sweet rolls, which would be reason alone to come back every Sunday, and brave any sort of snowstorm to do so. These are, I imagine, what crack must be life – addictive, mind-blowing, and impossible to refuse. We are them in furiously quick and rude fashion and didn’t even care what we looked like. That’s what brunch is about.

The Croque Monsieur, served with a thrillingly ample portion of their famous frites and a small arugula salad, was heaven-sent for a less-than-sunny Sunday, taking the chill off with grilled perfection and ridiculously rich goodness. Next time I’ll try their Kale Omelet if I’m feeling extra good, the Eggs Benedict if I’m feeling like myself, or the Fried Chicken if I’m feeling especially sinful.

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