Category Archives: Boston

Holiday Stroll 2016: Part 2

Saturday marked our official stroll day, and we began where we ended last year: Cambridge. A sunny start to the day was fortuitous for the crowds at Harvard Square. Apparently Harvard was playing Yale in a football game, but we were headed in the right direction (away from Harvard and out along Massachusetts Ave. toward Porter, where several shops (and a pho lunch) awaited our wallets.

We began, as everyone should, with a gift or two for ourselves. I explained it to Kira like I was a flight attendant: you have to secure your own oxygen mask before helping anyone else. That gorgeous silk scarf I found at a Tibetan store was my means of securing my mask before I could help anyone else. Kira found two scarves, and then we were ready to consider aiding the children in our lives.

At Nomad, colorful and unique sundry dazzled our senses, as Kira found a gift for her daughter and I found something for a co-worker. The walk to Porter had been a long one (there was a T issue and Harvard was the last stop that morning) so even though it was early in our expedition, we were already famished and ready for lunch. Nothing beats pho for that.

After filling ourselves with that glorious bowl of goodness, we were back for serious retail action, backtracking to Harvard (and several more Tibetan stores) before traipsing all the way to Central Square. Hands filled with shopping bags, hearts filled with Christmas spirit, and shoes filled with tired and sore feet, we hopped on the Red line back to Boston, where both of us needed a quick break before dinner.

The sun was just starting to descend, the last rays of it draining from the bedroom as the streetlamps flickered to life outside. We changed for a fancy belated-birthday dinner, and took in the moment. These were the in-between times that I cherished most, the moments everyone seems to forget, but that form the bulk of living when you think about it. We would have our fancy dinner and cocktails, and we would toast to our holiday stroll and long-past birthdays, but the real happiness was everything that led up to that.

There was one more morning left, and Sunday is always a wild card when it comes to the holiday stroll…

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Holiday Stroll 2016: Part 1

You know what they say about the best-laid plans.

For this year’s holiday stroll Kira and defied (or perhaps embraced) that adage, turning it into a set of no-laid plans. Unsure of whether we could get together again before Christmas, we decided to play it safe and make our annual Holiday Stroll a couple of weeks ago. We just happened to make the decision the night it all began, which meant no itinerary and no set plan, not even a loose one. That wasn’t a bad thing though, and it was sort of how we started doing these strolls in the first place.

I arrived in Boston on Friday afternoon, and it was a gloriously sun-filled day. After cleaning a disgusting toilet and going crazy trying to find a bunch of missing towels, I realized my brother had been there last, and once again I was cleaning up after him. Not one to let such common disappointments mar an otherwise-hopeful holiday stroll, I set my mood aright by setting up the limited holiday decorations I started collecting last year. Once the lights were on, and a glass of wine was poured, I felt the holiday spirit. Kira arrived long after it was dark, and we headed into Chinatown for a bowl of hot soup.

In many respects, it’s the night before any holiday stroll that feels the most special. There was a brisk breeze, tempered by the steaming bowls of soup before us, and, later, a whiskey cocktail at the Mandarin Oriental.

Better than any other time of the year, the shop windows were decked out in their holiday displays – whimsical, enchanting, imaginative scenes – the sort of thing that would tickle my childhood fancy more than any real gifts beneath the tree could ever capture. We paused and looked into the pretty portals, and the innocence of the season, no matter how much jaded commercialism had crept in through the years, touched me once more.

Then it was time to go back to the condo, and a viewing of ‘Meet Me in St. Louis’. I had neglected to bring our standard holiday fare ‘The Man Who Came to Dinner’ so this would have to do. Our holiday stroll had unwittingly begun, and we were both asleep before they even reached the Halloween scene.

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Boston Possibilities

Kira and I will be celebrating our very belated birthdays this weekend in Boston, a somewhat impromptu get-together just as the holiday shopping season gets underway. We will hopefully be solidifying plans for our annual Holiday Stroll, but as I was contemplating things to do this weekend, I realized that some of our most-fun moments have been the unplanned events that simply unfolded as they casually came into being. Though my Virgo nature will always appreciate a plan, especially if there’s an itinerary involved, sometimes it’s best to fly by the seat of your pants.

Our very first Holiday Stroll was a spur-of-the-moment event, and only half-way through that holiday walk did we christen it a Holiday Stroll, setting a precedent for all the ensuing years. I love that it’s become a tradition, but after last year’s itinerary became a blueprint for almost everything that we didn’t do, I realized that too much structure isn’t always a good thing. Of course, changing one’s nature is not such an easy thing.

I was thinking this weekend might be the start of an annual pre-Thanksgiving jaunt, such is the strength of my ties to organization, but I’d rather not bind us to anything just yet. For now, the city is a sprawling land of possibility. That’s how we’re going to keep it.

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A Late Departure, Well Worth It

Kira looked at her train schedule and we decided to head out on a last-minute gift-shopping run to Downtown Crossing. I wanted to go to Cambridge but she was not sure there would be enough time, so we rather clumsily darted into a few lackluster stores before postponing the first train and having a lunch of noodles. It’s that time of the year when our stomachs turn to soups and noodle dishes, mostly in Chinatown. Kira remembers one of the first jaunts like this, though it has gone from my memory: we supposedly sat on a second floor restaurant overlooking Chinatown, sipping soup after a day of work at John Hancock. We’ve spent years searching for the restaurant and haven’t yet been able to find it. Personally, I’m not sure it even happened because I never forget things like that, but I’ll let Kira hold onto her memory.

On this day, the steaming bowls of ramen perfectly complement the flood of sun spilling out over the cobblestones and fallen leaves. Fall in Boston is magical, and though my mind is already on the ride home, I stop myself from thinking too far ahead and focus on the moment at hand. It’s not wise to take such sunshine for granted when it’s about to go away for a while.

We pick up a few cookies and hop back on the T. Kira needs to pick up her bags before meeting her Mom. I’m already packed, but it would be unwise to leave at this early afternoon hour. That’s just a traffic jam already in process. With a hug and a promise to keep in better contact, Kira leaves me alone in the sun-filled condo. That frightening but reassuring silence in the aftermath of a friend’s departure is always a little sad, but I’ll never regret a weekend in Boston with a good friend.

Walking into the bedroom, I survey the way the light lifts the space. It is too pretty to leave, so I settle onto the bed and let my legs stretch out. In the quiet, there is contentment. The peace will depart as soon as I enter the maelstrom of bumper to bumper traffic on the Mass Turnpike, but I will take his moment with me.

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A Light Delay

Waking to a frigid room, I pulled the heavy robe around me, and an extra blanket around my shoulders. (Some pictures are better left unseen.) I put on a pot of tea and groggily greeted the morning. The sun had returned, but did little for the chilly start of the day. I remembered how one of my Literature professors at Brandeis had explained that she always waited for that really cold first snap of fall, the way it jolted you into awareness of the season. This could be that morning.

A Sunday of departure has the potential to go a few ways. There’s the early start to everything, in which I could beat traffic and be well on the way home before the stroke of eight or nine. Then there’s the late morning drive, when most people are starting to hit the road, and the first crush of traffic pushes you forward. The early afternoon departure is tricky traffic-wise, and this runs until about four or five. For the most part, I try to avoid leaving between noon and five as there is always backed-up traffic issues then. I didn’t manage that this time, but it was worth it.

We set up a make-do breakfast, with leftover fruit from the night before, along with some toasted bagels and crackers. A berry Echinacea tea warded off the cold, even if I’m not a big fan of the berry teas. The sun slowly began to warm the outside, and I opened the blinds to the bedroom. Light poured in, and I decided to forego an early departure. You can’t put a price on that kind of light. It fills the soul.

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From Water to Wind

 Before we batten down the hatches and close the windows for the season, I like to give the Boston condo a good airing-out. I’d have burned some sage if we had any, but this would have to do for now as the day was too perfect to wait (a windy but not too terribly cold day is ideal). Upon opening the front and back windows, a strong breeze blew through the entire place. Curtains billowed in the moving air, and candles fluttered as the day slowly turned darker. It was dramatic weather, fitting for fall and change. Kira and I sat at the table as our wine breathed, taking a breather ourselves after a morning of hustling and bustling. We tentatively planned some upcoming dates for a belated birthday celebration and our annual holiday stroll, and there was something very cozy about the condo as the wind rushed through it – the juxtaposition of the cool air and the candles, the outside and the inside, the recent memory of summer and the future planning for winter.

The wind was strong, and we moved into the bedroom to watch a bit of ‘Practical Magic’ for seasonal appropriateness. Kira was chilled, so we pulled out the heavy winter blanket and lit a few more candles. Turning the seasonal page from white to red wine, we sipped to warm our stomachs, while Nicole Kidman and Sandra Bullock got all witchy. Soon it was time for dinner, but neither of us was in the mood to walk very far. Flirting with the wind from the safe haven of the condo was one thing; whoring through it unprotected was quite another. I proposed heading to the corner market and coming up with a simple puttanesca, along with some cheese and fruit.

We hurried along the darkened streets, over wet leaves and fallen branches as the wind whipped around us. Apples and pears and crackers made for an opening salvo, while pasta, anchovies, garlic, olives, roasted red peppers and fresh parsley would suffice for the puttanesca. Back at the condo, the kitchen warmed to the boiling pasta water and simmering sauce. Kira was amazed at my culinary abilities. Twenty years ago I could barely make toast, now here I was winging a simple (albeit rough) pasta dish. Like its namesake, a puttanesca is very forgiving.

We sat down to eat as the wind continued to howl. It would go like that all night, and I lowered the windows until they were almost completely closed. Food and friendship mingled with darkness and candlelight. It’s always cozy in the condo during the colder months.

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Still Coming Down Hard

The roving bands of rain continued into Saturday morning. We woke to a new pot of tea, and by the time we were ready to head into the city for some shopping there was a brighter break in the sky. A fine mist was falling, which is sometimes more annoying than an outright rain, and we paused for some French sustenance from Café Madeleine. Eating our croissants as we walked, ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’-style, we made a wet flaky mess of our shirts, but it was worth it.

A bit of early holiday shopping along Newbury turned into some possible party garb for myself (the usual derailment when trying to buy for other people at the onset of holiday season) but mostly we just did a lot of looking, and some deftly-timed ducking into stores to get out of the rain. The mist had morphed into something decidedly more solid and heavy. Careful what you wish for…

We stopped in Zara to find a raincoat for Kira, but they had the usual line snaking through the entire store and so we nixed the idea of even looking. (That store consistently has the worst register service of any place I’ve been – every single time I walk in there are lines and broken registers that can’t take credit cards and all sorts of nonsense. They’ve lost hundreds of dollars of business from me alone based on this and there is no end in sight to such mismanagement. Sorry, rant finished.)

A few birthday cards were procured from Newbury Comics, but the tricky holiday gift for my brother was not to be found. At Sephora, I sampled the new Tom Ford Private Blend ‘Ombre Leather 16’, and tried again to determine if I liked it as much as the original ‘Tuscan Leather’ but walked away still undecided. A spritz of Atelier’s ‘Oud Saphir’ was equally enticing. Too many choices… all of them delicious. And then it was time for lunch.

It had been some time since either Kira or myself had had a proper burger, so we sought out a pub in the midst and mayhem of tourists and college kids. The rain was picking up and places were starting to fill. Settling on the Met Back Bay, we found two open spaces at the downstairs bar and set up camp while the downpour began in earnest. It was a cozy scene, made more-so by the bonhomie of the brunchers (lots of Bloody Marys were being made in front of us) and the martini in my hand. There is no better place to ride out a rainstorm than a bar. The burger was good too, and we once again found ourselves stalling in the hope that the rain would pass or at least slow to a manageable drizzle. It did, but in its place was a front of cooler air, and brutal winds. Still, I’ll take wind over rain any day. As the afternoon ripened, that wish was delivered in gusts and gales that shook the city. We rushed into the South End, found a bottle of Malbec, and hurried back to the condo.

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A Very Wet Entry

The drive from Albany to Boston can sometimes be quite perilous. Going through the elevated Berkshires always raises the risk of running into weather conditions that don’t affect either end of the trip, which can make for a dicey situation. On this day, the rain began falling halfway along the Massachusetts Turnpike. This was no light rain either – torrents of the stuff was pouring out of the sky like a million ‘Fantasia’ buckets were being spilled by an evil sorcerer. The threat of hydroplaning is very real when sheets of water are sliding all around the road. (I once totaled a car in a heavy rain situation, so I don’t take water lightly.)

Though the going was slower than usual (and I was on a tight schedule to meet with yet another bathroom contractor) I arrived to a break in the Boston sky and managed to make it to the condo in dry fashion. A load of laundry (since there are always towels to wash) and a repotting of a ZZ plant (since it was bursting out of its original container) occupied my time until the long-awaited reunion with Kira took place that evening. We hadn’t seen each other since April, and the summer apart had begun to leave me slightly concerned, but when we headed out into the rain it was as if no time had passed.

It was coming down hard again, and we ducked into the nearby House of Siam rather than make the trek to Chinatown. (It’s soup and noodle season!) As we sat at a table looking out onto Columbus, the rain increased. It was a steady downpour, leaving everyone soaked. Half of the people didn’t even bother with umbrellas – there really was no point. We took our time eating, hoping for a reprieve. Though there wasn’t far to go, a few blocks were enough to soak through the shoes. Eventually, with no end to the rain in sight, we had to make our way back, beneath feeble umbrellas and over puddles that had turned into ponds. As we climbed the steps to the condo, my feet were wet, my sleeves were dripping, and the brown bags holding our take-away containers were mush. None of it mattered though. I was back with my dear friend, and we made a pot of hot tea as Billie Holiday sang ‘Stormy Weather’ in the background. 

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A Hunt in Boston

My father remembers it better than I do. Apparently I had proposed the idea of finding the family a place in Boston early on in my junior year of college, and the day after he gave the ok to begin the search I was in the city setting up visits to potentials properties. The year was 1995, and the South End was on the verge of taking off. (If you want decent real estate investments, go where the gays are. I wanted to be there for other reasons, but I digress…)

On that fall day, it had rained in the morning, but by the time I got all the way from Brandeis into the South End, the sun was out, the air was warm and humid, and the only remnants of the storm were the wet leaves beneath my feet. On a cobblestone driveway, yellow leaves clung like mushroom caps, muddy and veiny and emitting the tell-tale scent of fall ~ life and decay in one mossy aroma.

My real estate agent was a cute guy with whom I was already illogically smitten, and he brought me along to our first property ~ a small condo just across the street from the real estate office. As tempting as it would have been to live there in such close proximity to the man who would surely wear my wedding ring one day, I held my enthusiasm in check. Despite the charming wall of exposed brick, and the enchanting way the afternoon sun drifted in through the windows, it was just a tad too tiny.

For our second property, we looked at a large, albeit divided, floor-through deep in the South End. Far from any T station (too far, really) what it lacked in location it made up for in space. The problem was that the space was cut into so many smaller rooms that it felt disjointed and cumbersome, even if it was a steal for all the square footage. The distance to any transportation would prove problematic too, and I was reminded of the most important real estate adage: location, location, location.

The third try was the charm that brought us to Braddock Park. Great location ~ right between Copley and the South End ~ decent space (at least for one person, maybe two if they really loved each other) ~ and a steal considering that in the time that we’ve had it it’s probably tripled in value. That cemented the deal, and before November ended we had closed on the condo. I never tire of reliving those months.

The last time I was in Boston, the conditions mirrored those I just described ~ the warm, humid air of a fall day where the sun wins out over the season, the leaves collecting between the cobblestones, and the scent of life and death so gloriously entwined that one doesn’t exist without the other. I thought back to the young man who was searching for love as much as he was searching for a home, and I smiled at his determination.

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Falling in Boston

It is my second favorite time of the year to be in Boston (after spring, of course). Fall carries its enchantment on a brilliantly-colored sleeve of leaves, sprinkling smoke-tinged coziness and seasonal delights along gourd-lined streets. At the start of the weekend, and the beginning of the leaf fall, I walk the roads with the sun at my back. There is just the slightest chill in the air, but it’s not sharp enough to bite. In other words, this is fine weather for any season.

I’m in transit, and Boston is just a convenient one-night stop-over before journeying to my friend JoAnn’s Fall Gathering. Usually, it is the destination in its own right, and I feel a tinge of regret in not being able to stay longer. No matter, there will be other weekends for that. A part of my heart is always here anyway.

As the leaves fall, I’m reminded of old romances. It was my customary practice to fall in love at this time of the year. Not intentionally, it just so happened that a few of my doomed love affairs began in the fall. A telling thing, perhaps, given how they all panned out. (I met Andy at the height of summer.)

Once, I saved a few leaves from the fall in which I met someone I used to love. I pressed them into a thick book, and when they were dry and flat I framed them in glass, in a hanging group of three, and presented them to the man who was not meant to last. I wanted him to remember that fall.

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South End Dining

On a brilliant fall afternoon, and early dinner at one of my favorite dining spots: the South End Buttery. Like Dorothy in Oz, I begin my journey with a Ruby Slipper, but there’s nothing wicked or sinister about this yummy brick road. The halibut sounds delightful, and before I know it I’ve devoured the whole thing.

These little nooks of Boston are what I love most.

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Look What Popped Up at the MO

I love an unexpected pop-up, and I love sushi, so when I heard the news that a sushi stand was visiting the Mandarin Oriental in Boston I made it the next reason to visit that favorite city of mine. Set in a pretty corner of its handsome lobby in cozy proximity to the fireplace, the bar area is manned by a very capable sushi chef. A few seats are available for those who like to belly up to the bar, but guests are also welcome to sit at the lobby tables, which is where I ended up, taking in the warm wood and extravagant orchid bouquets on display.

I’ve said it many times, but it bears repeating: happiness is a hotel lobby and bar, particularly when it’s as fine as the Mandarin. This is the perfect stop for anyone who is slightly peckish, but not quite ready for a full-blown meal.

There are half a dozen maki selections, the majority of which clock in at $10 for 8 pieces – surprisingly reasonable for such fancy surroundings. I splurged on the Mandarin Oriental Maki, which is $18 for 10 pieces, but they are packed with crabmeat, avocado, and cucumber then topped with salmon, tuna, shrimp and more fresh avocado. Suggested wines are available by the glass as well, most hailing from France.

In the midst of the bustle of Boston, this was another exquisite respite fashioned by the expert powers-that-be at the Mandarin Oriental. Well worth a stop if you need a break.

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As Day Turns to Night in Boston

Along with myself, fall arrived in Boston this past weekend. Not in a dark and stormy way, but in a brilliant sunlit mash-up of blue skies, brisk breezes and pumpkin spice lattes. As the days waned, the sky grew softer. A few clouds rolled in – high and light and non-threatening – while the descent of the sun made everything look a little richer.

The start of the season is always a colorful thrill, even if the known and inevitable end is dismal, gray and dim. We don’t want to remember that now, and the good thing is that the change is so gradual that it goes almost unnoticed.

Boston is beauty, especially in the fall.

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Boston’s Fall Call

The search for a Boston bathroom contractor continues, and this weekend I’ll be making my first fall trip to the condo this year. Having spent much of the summer in upstate New York by the pool, I haven’t been in Boston as much as I usually like to be, but that will change in the coming months, when the focus returns to my favorite city.

I don’t have much lined up, other than some relaxing alone time, and the lack of plans and expectations, while at odds with my comfort zone, is not unwelcome or jarring. I think it will do me well. There is no greater feeling than fall in Boston. Let the magic begin.

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The Last Days of Peace in Boston

On one of the last weekends of peace, before the deluge of returning college kids, I make one of the last trips to Boston for this summer. It’s been so nice and hot, I haven’t been here much this season, preferring the comfort and ease of alternating between pool and central AC.
This past weekend I returned for some walking and fall wardrobe shopping – the best of both worlds.
Turning onto Columbus, I passed the first lilac tree I sniffed this season. Thanks to the heat and humidity, it was now a powdery mess of gray and white mildew – a far cry from its shiny chartreuse foliage a few short months ago. Such is the effect of summer on some of us. It can wear the prettiest down.

The city was quiet, as is typical at this stage of the season. The locals have hightailed it out of town, while the coming college crew has yet to arrive. It’s absolute heaven for a shy guy who prefers the peace and stillness. It’s much too warm to be surrounded by hustle and bustle. The streets are deliciously sparse, the walkways wondrously clear, and the bother of a college town has yet to be wakened. I pause to take it all in. The madness will ensue shortly, and all this peace soon will cease.

I’ll put on my guard then. For now, ease and tranquility – for just a while longer.

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